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What's your timeframe like? I grabbed some 300zx hubs from the pick and pull last weekend, and I'm going to try to get some of the tone rings in the next couple weeks. After that, modeling up an adapter and 3D-printing a prototype should be pretty easy. One thing I see as an issue is the attachment. The tone ring will have to be attached to the adapter before the rotor goes on, but the tone ring is going to interfere with the bolts. I think I can get it to work where you'd use a crow's foot socket to install them, but it'll be tight.

http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html Here are the wiring diagrams.

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Thinking about this more, another set of holes would not work unless you convert to modern style wheel stud mounted rotors. Since the tone ring hole pattern diameter is larger than the brake rotor hole pattern, the only way is a spacer ring. I've planning on converting to a modern rotor mount anyway to match the Q45 stuff in the rear, but the kit would probably be useful to more people if it could work with the standard rotor mounting.

I assume the quip you're referring to was my message. I assure you, I'm far from a Datsun purist and was not trying to chase him away. It was pretty obvious the person had gotten to the thread via a Google search, and he had not yet gotten a reply. I was simply letting him know that it's possible someone might have an answer, but that if he's looking for something quick and guaranteed it would be more likely found at a Chevy forum. I wasn't saying GTFO, but rather trying to help him get an answer as quickly as possible. **** me for trying to help, I guess.

Did some searching and figured it out. They're off a 1999 Subaru Forester. The wheel pattern on a Forester is 5x100, and from looking on RockAuto I can see the ABS ring diameter is slightly bigger than the wheel stud pattern. The Nissan 5-lug rotor bolt pattern is 5x103. There's an outside chance those patterns match, but just from eyeballing it the Subaru ABS ring looks bigger. Custom hubs with the correct pattern or just some custom rings would solve the problem, but finding OEM parts for this would be great for cost and availability.

What car is this off of? We might be able to find an OEM option that fits the brake rotor bolt pattern.

I had just planned on running a hall effect sensor through an enlarged dust cover hole and epoxying a magnet to the back of the hub, but if you get T3 to do something integrated I'd be very interested. Evolved front coils and their 5-lug hubs were on my list anyway.

What's the brand on that harness? A search PRP comes up with a ton of options and I can't quite read the smaller text.

This is at least a guide that he's meaning to archive.

Well if the cam sprocket is spinning and the cam is not, something is obviously wrong. It's possible that the bolt that holds the sprocket in relation to the cam worked its way out. Can you check if it's still there?

This is a Datsun forum. Someone here might have some overlapping knowledge, but you'd have a better chance on a Chevy forum.

I thought so too, but on the description they call it paint and say it leaves a "uniform 1mil thick epoxy finish". Ah, I thought you were in the PNW since you used Metalworks. Taking it back up would be a pain.

http://powder-fab.com/e-coating/ It's the process that OEMs use on their bare metal. It's the familiar black finish that unpainted replacement panels come with. I believe that place has tanks large enough for an S30 shell, but I can't find their max size specs right now. I thought they had them listed before. There are a ton of shops that do cars in the Midwest, but that's the only one I've found on the West Coast that isn't a super vague industrial website.

Are you planning on having it epoxy dipped or having it sprayed?

Yeah, I wouldn't think the water pump is sucking from the lower rad hose with the turbo water somehow avoiding that, traveling upwards, and going through the turbo. I'm with ZHoob.

It's a spam bot. Just ignore it.

There's a guy on Facebook in the Church of L-Series group selling a complete engine if that's what you're after.

34psi? Are you running an L28ET or something else?

Just south of Sakakawea. I went to HS in Hazen. There's a guy in Montana selling what looks like a decent Series 1 shell if you're really after one. https://m.facebook.com/groups/995586513795146?view=permalink&id=2481289638558152&fs=2&focus_composer=0&ref=m_notif&notif_t=group_activity Not sure if that link will work or not.

Any swap is possible, it just depends on the work you want to do. There are 2JZ crossmembers for sale that make the engine swap pretty easy, and a T56 swap has been done a lot, though I don't know it anyone has put one behind a 2j into a Z. You'll have to do some hammering on the tunnel and make a custom crossmember, but that's not too difficult. Hoke Performance makes T56 crossmembers if you want to just drill holes. I assume NDFarmer means North Dakota? What part? I grew up there.

Mounting ears like that are designed to be loaded in shear, so I'd keep an eye on what the added bending moments do to the mounts over time.

Chris has replied pretty promptly to me in the past, despite not posting here much anymore. Try sending him a PM.

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