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Ah, I hadn't noticed that further down in the thread. I thought you were talking about his original custom CV axles. Sorry about that.

Axles won't matter as long as the spindles are the same. The coilovers definitely help with clearance, though. You can get that done as cheaply as this. https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/s30-coilover-conversion Obviously it's more money to spend, but if you're going for a particular look it might be worth it to you. You also get the ability to dial in an exact ride height and a custom spring rate. I still haven't answered your original question, but more food for thought.

People have run 275s in the stock wheel wells. You should be able to get more than that under ZG flares. It's all about offset.

If you're going to connect them, why not just use the stock mount?

You can either cut the center section out of the diff mount and just retain the parts of it needed to hold the control arm bushing, or you can get something like this. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/fancy-rear-drop-mount-caps

In my opinion, the only diff mount suitable for a short nose swap is something like this. They're too short to just cantilever something off the old diff mount holes, and a piece of plate with slots and lightening holes isn't a great substitution. T3 makes really pretty parts with really nice welds, but I'm consistently confused by some of their engineering choices.

Did you remove the engine when you took out the 4L80E? If you have adjustable mounts, maybe you didn't get it back into the same spot. Pictures would help a lot.

I don't know of anyone that has done it offhand, but the results of E85 would be that you can run more timing and boost, your fuel mileage would drop, and you'll need a bigger fuel pump and injectors to hit the same power levels.

The spindle pins are such a pain in the ass. Something I found really helped was getting a medium-sized tub, and then filling it with about a gallon of 50/50 ATF and acetone. It's like penetrating oil on steroids. Set the side of the strut/control arm assembly with the spindle pin into the tub and let it soak for 2 or 3 days. I stopped breaking threaded rod after that.

Yeah, you can get a brand new Jeep CAS for $40-50, and the modifications are simple. You're not saving time or money by trying to modify the timing cover.

This is HybridZ and we're a bunch of degenerates, so of course you should engine swap it.

Plenty strong is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't run a bar in my car that wasn't at least pinned.

How do these bars latch? The spring looks like there isn't much room before it binds, so if it's a sleeve style latch, there won't be much throw or interface of the tubes. That would worry me.

If you do want to go with the Bentley center console, I'd get some measurements on it before committing. It looks quite a bit wider than the Datsun console, which is close to the seats the way it is. Grannyknot's picture is of his 240Z. Here's the full build thread Do you have a link to the auction results for the high dollar Zs you've mentioned? I hadn't heard of any restomods going that high, so it would be interesting to see what it takes in terms of finishes to sell a restomod for that much.

His username is BoozeBaron, so I'm going to guess alcohol distributor?

FYI - the important dimensions of all S30s are the exact same. There will be some minor differences, but the engine bay size of a 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z are the same. 280Zs never had turbos. That didn't come until the 280ZX, which is a completely different car. More people have installed the Apex kits now since that series started, but there still haven't been a ton of reviews involving usage. The Toyota 1GZ was produced until 2016 and is essentially two 1JZs stuck together. It doesn't quite have the panache that a Ferrari engine would, but they're significantly cheaper, and any shop that works on JZs should be able to handle a rebuild.

Derek owns Datsunworks. The bellhousings are available through Godzilla Raceworks.

The first 10 were spoken for long ago, but Chris just posted a day or two ago that they're doing a second run and had 8 left.

I just PMed you, but don't use apostrophes or other special characters in the title. The forum doesn't like it.

What keeps it from doing this? Just a bolt that got loose?

My uprights have been sitting on the shelf. I think the hard parts have been figured out, and I can't really take it much further until I have an ECU. I guess I can get the sizing finalized for the adapter and sensor mount, but those are going to be application-specific.

Ah, that makes sense. ABS is a great plastic, but hard it's to print large models without warping if you don't have a heated chamber. I see he has an enclosure, so that definitely helps. PETG doesn't have the temperature resistance that ABS does, but we're talking 80C vs 100C. Hopefully the inside of our cars is never reaching 80C.

What material is he printing it in? Your posts have got me thinking I should order some PETG and go to work on installing the Mini I have sitting on 5h4 shelf with 3D printed 90s and defrost vents.

If the guy who's going to buy your car in 2, 5, 20 years could talk to you now, he'd beg you not to use fiberglass.

Ah that makes sense. Now that you say that I remember seeing them before. I thought you were talking about the part of the vent that you see when it's mounted in the dash.