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calZ

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Everything posted by calZ

  1. calZ
    Yep. There's an adjustable screw that sticks out of the right side of the stick, and then you can see the little raised gate on the right side of the shifter. You just push down to get the screw under the gate, then right and back.
  2. calZ
    https://cbfperformance.ecwid.com/?fbclid=IwAR3coSAvNYyxmT9zswBRPN5cLTERir6rBSnmzrz5xSi-kPHWmUIaOGmyrgc#!/Gen-5-Billet-CD009-Rear-mount-Shifter/p/67395190/category=0 This is the shifter that Hoke sold with the L-series to CD009 adapter. He didn't make it, and it's further forward than the one he produced. Without an offset handle it works with the stock shift boot, but might need a bit of trimming at the back. I'd guess that with the offset you might not have to trim.
  3. calZ
    He didn't say prop valve on the rear, though. He said a prop valve on the front.
  4. calZ
    Spot on. I didn't have the time to email or call last night, but I sent them an email today with the pictures. I got a response in 4 minutes saying they'd take care of it, and another email 40 minutes later saying a new set with proper packaging would be on the way within a couple days along with a return label for the original set. I've never had to deal with T3 post-sale before, but it's good to know that their customer service is excellent.
  5. calZ
    Agreed. Everything I've ordered from them before has come individually wrapped in bubble wrap, then packed nicely and foamed. For some reason they cut corners this time and the parts paid the price. They only had to go from Sacramento to LA, so I can't imagine what they'd look like if they had gone across the country. I also agree that the scratches probably won't matter. The bearing just rests on those surfaces and doesn't rotate, so as long as the seal doesn't snag I think it should be fine. I'm still going to email and let them know someone mailed it in this time though.
  6. calZ
    So I recently ordered some front coilovers from TechnoToyTuning. It took 6 weeks for them to get here, and I was greeted by a box with the top of one of my $1200 coilivers sticking out. Upon opening, I find that the two coilovers were essentially dropped in the box unwrapped and the spaces around them were somewhat filled with expanding foam material. I say somewhat because they obviously bounced around a good amount in transit, leading to some dings and scratches. I'd usually brush this off since I'll likely nick them up in the future, but there are blemishes on both of the chromoly spindles from where they hit the other coilover. I can lightly feel these scratches with my fingernails, so they aren't purely surface marks. Is this something worthy of sending them back to T3? Or just polish them up a bit and run them?
  7. calZ
    Well, it works as far as I get a signal from the sensor on a multimeter. I ordered uprights from T3 4-5 weeks ago and they get here Monday, so once I have them I'll be able to finalize the ring and sensor mounts. My car is currently in the air and I have a turbo engine waiting to get bolted to a still-unsourced CD009 and swapped in, so it might be a long while until I have the inputs actually working with an ECU.
  8. calZ
    He mentioned it had a bunch of mixed parts and that it's registered with a clean title.
  9. calZ
    I have an extra diff that I'd sell you, but I'm sure shipping costs would be insane. What are you going to do for axles, brakes, and hubs/bearings?
  10. calZ
    They're pretty common in Southern California, but it looks like LKQ in Houston has 2 of them. You'll have to type Q45 in the search bar. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Houston_SW-239/recents/
  11. calZ
    It would also help to get the car on the ground and settle the suspension before making judgements. Sometimes things can look weird when everything in the suspension is drooped.
  12. calZ
    What stroke did you have it offset ground to?
  13. calZ
    Your logs say that it's cutting ground or you just measured that at the relay? If it's the latter it could be a wiring problem rather than the ECU.
  14. calZ
    I don't know much about 2JZs, but at those HP levels you'll definitely need to do some chassis strengthening. The two links below should give you examples and ideas for basically everything you'd want to do. https://imgur.com/a/R27sh
  15. calZ
    I have the TTT rear end kit. Obviously I don't have the custom 8.8 rear cover, but I'm putting in a short nose R200. The parts are amazing. The machining is great at the coatings seem good. That said, it comes with absolutely zero instructions. There are labeled bags of fasteners and the setup is relatively simple, but a set of written instructions with torque values would be nice.
  16. calZ

    Door Mechanisms

    calZ replied to calZ's topic in Parts Wanted

    240Z
  17. calZ
    What's the lever arm on the caliper look like? Could you drill a hole further down it to reduce the required travel?
  18. calZ
    You might be able to just go at it with a hammer. I'd try that before cutting.
  19. calZ
    As the title says, I'd like door mechanisms for both sides. I'd like the full set of latch and rods, but it for some reason you only have part of it, I really only need the rods for the exterior handles and locks.
  20. calZ
    I think it's deceiving how close the tires are to the flares. The car is built for time attack, so it will at the very least give enough clearance for racing. As Mark said, I'm not sure about on the street.
  21. calZ
    The car looks great! What size tires do you have on it? They look small to me.
  22. calZ
    Right, that is an issue. I was just addressing the original comments about the rear of the diff not having bushings.
  23. calZ
    To be fair to Apex, every short nose R200 kit uses that same setup. T3, Arizona ZCar, and Apex all have solid rear mounts. Even the stock mount is solid in the rear.
  24. calZ
    Wouldn't just deleting the posts have the same effect?
  25. calZ
    I thought about that, but I think I'd rather not mess with threads and integrity of the shaft.
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