calZ

https://www.speedhut.com/ecommerce/product/2585/SpeedBox™-GPS-VSS-to-Mechanical-Drive-Speed-Converter You may have to do some work to adapt the threads.

This thread is 15 years old.

Got it, thanks. The Interior Innovations door cards have extra seams that I'm not a big fan of, so I was hoping they matched well. JF Customs(the eBay seller) also sells a leather console and dash that I was thinking about buying, which would presumably be the same color as the door cards. In your opinion, are the shades of black different enough that it would look funny if one is on the tunnel and one is on the console? I guess the original vinyl and plastic weren't the exact same color either, but they were at least different materials.

I was looking at some interior stuff today and ended up coming to this thread. How well would you say the ebay door panels match the Interior Innovations leather? I like the look of both of them, but it's hard to tell from the pictures if one is a lot smoother than the other.

OBD-II wasn't standard until 1996, so no, you won't be able to plug an OBD reader in and get full diagnostic data. Hell, OBD-I wasn't even a standard until 1988.

Ironhead, were you pressing out the races or the bearings? All the S30 front hubs I know of, including my T3 hubs, use tapered bearings that don't press in.

Oh, I hadn't even noticed the passenger seat was different. The passenger seat looks like it is actually an LXB, so you might be able to get something out of it, even though a pair would be better.

I'm going to disagree with that last part. Recaro LS/LX seats go for a good bit of money. I don't believe that's what your seats are, but there are other classic models that bring quite a bit. The random logo would definitely decrease their value though.

When I saw the first pictures I thought you were crazy for taking on that project, but after seeing your sheet metal skills it makes a lot more sense.

I did a bit of googling. Here's the link. http://alteredz.com/MichaelOlsBBZ.htm

I'm enjoying thia so far.

The site that has done that I think 3 times in the last few weeks. I had other people verify that it wasn't just me. It seemed you could get to the site while not logged in or by using an incognito tab, but using a browser with saved login credentials would produce the error. I see the site look has changed a bit, presumably due to a software update? Hopefully the reoccurring error goes away with the update.

Ah, I hadn't noticed that further down in the thread. I thought you were talking about his original custom CV axles. Sorry about that.

Axles won't matter as long as the spindles are the same. The coilovers definitely help with clearance, though. You can get that done as cheaply as this. https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/s30-coilover-conversion Obviously it's more money to spend, but if you're going for a particular look it might be worth it to you. You also get the ability to dial in an exact ride height and a custom spring rate. I still haven't answered your original question, but more food for thought.

People have run 275s in the stock wheel wells. You should be able to get more than that under ZG flares. It's all about offset.

If you're going to connect them, why not just use the stock mount?

You can either cut the center section out of the diff mount and just retain the parts of it needed to hold the control arm bushing, or you can get something like this. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/fancy-rear-drop-mount-caps

In my opinion, the only diff mount suitable for a short nose swap is something like this. They're too short to just cantilever something off the old diff mount holes, and a piece of plate with slots and lightening holes isn't a great substitution. T3 makes really pretty parts with really nice welds, but I'm consistently confused by some of their engineering choices.

Did you remove the engine when you took out the 4L80E? If you have adjustable mounts, maybe you didn't get it back into the same spot. Pictures would help a lot.

I don't know of anyone that has done it offhand, but the results of E85 would be that you can run more timing and boost, your fuel mileage would drop, and you'll need a bigger fuel pump and injectors to hit the same power levels.

The spindle pins are such a pain in the ass. Something I found really helped was getting a medium-sized tub, and then filling it with about a gallon of 50/50 ATF and acetone. It's like penetrating oil on steroids. Set the side of the strut/control arm assembly with the spindle pin into the tub and let it soak for 2 or 3 days. I stopped breaking threaded rod after that.

Yeah, you can get a brand new Jeep CAS for $40-50, and the modifications are simple. You're not saving time or money by trying to modify the timing cover.

This is HybridZ and we're a bunch of degenerates, so of course you should engine swap it.

Plenty strong is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't run a bar in my car that wasn't at least pinned.

How do these bars latch? The spring looks like there isn't much room before it binds, so if it's a sleeve style latch, there won't be much throw or interface of the tubes. That would worry me.