calZ

What keeps it from doing this? Just a bolt that got loose?

My uprights have been sitting on the shelf. I think the hard parts have been figured out, and I can't really take it much further until I have an ECU. I guess I can get the sizing finalized for the adapter and sensor mount, but those are going to be application-specific.

Ah, that makes sense. ABS is a great plastic, but hard it's to print large models without warping if you don't have a heated chamber. I see he has an enclosure, so that definitely helps. PETG doesn't have the temperature resistance that ABS does, but we're talking 80C vs 100C. Hopefully the inside of our cars is never reaching 80C.

What material is he printing it in? Your posts have got me thinking I should order some PETG and go to work on installing the Mini I have sitting on 5h4 shelf with 3D printed 90s and defrost vents.

If the guy who's going to buy your car in 2, 5, 20 years could talk to you now, he'd beg you not to use fiberglass.

Ah that makes sense. Now that you say that I remember seeing them before. I thought you were talking about the part of the vent that you see when it's mounted in the dash.

What has to be changed about the center exit?

Those mounts look great, but the load being focused on 3 narrow strips of the bushing rather than being spread across the entire area worries me.

S13s are 4-lug, so you could just use all stock S13 parts for the conversion.

So you're going to run a twin scroll turbo with separate wastegates off a log manifold?

Because people who were kids when they were new are now in their 50s and have money. The same trend happens with almost any car. It's why Supras and GTRs have taken off in the last few years too. Once the kids who grew up idolizing them have money, the prices go up.

Prices went up long before coronavirus. It's been a pretty steep upward trend for 3-4 years.

Your number is about right. I got mine for $1k and felt like it was a good deal. It had already been checked out at the machine shop.

If there's one thing HybridZ loves, it's actual engineering. Nice work.

You don't need an image hosting service. You can upload the image directly into your post. You want to tighten the hub nut? I don't know what MM hubs look like, but if they're the same as any other hub you just pop the cap off with a chisel or screwdriver. You could probably get by with a hard plastic trim tool if they have a nice finish you don't want to scratch.

Climate control meaning set it to a temp and let the controller figure out the rest? What are you using for that?

No, they understand. They're trying to solve the actual problem rather than the one you've created. The only way you can make your car cool less is to reduce cooling capacity. So you can put in a smaller radiator that won't keep up when it's warm, or you can put in a thermostat that works like it's supposed to when it's cold and then work to make sure the engine stays cool when it's hot out. If your problem is that the engine doesn't start cooling itself at a low enough temp, then put a lower temp thermostat in so it opens earlier. That's essentially what you've done with the holes, except there's no off switch for holes. Or, leave it at a stock temp thermostat and either upgrade your radiator or do better with fans/ducting to increase your airflow. Is 210 even too hot? I've never done an LS swap, but everything I've seen/read says that stock ECUs don't even turn the fan on until well over 200. 210 in a worst case scenario sounds perfectly within the stock specs.

Why do you have holes drilled in the thermostat?

And if there isn't room for the stock AC compressor, using one of the modern electric compressors would be an option too.

I'd love to see the whole appraisal. It would be very interesting to see what they consider valuable and what they don't. I'll PM you my email address

It will likely come down to cost. If they cost $1k you'll sell a million. If they cost $3k you'll probably sell 3. There have been billet cranks available for the L-series in the $3-4k realm, and there's a much smaller market for those than the real V07s in the $1-1.5k range

Removing them as an included item would be an interesting decision. If it's this difficult for a company ordering a large batch to get a supplier to do them correctly, imagine how difficult it would be for a single set? I think having to source your own custom axles would turn a lot of people off from the kit.

I think the rear would look a lot better if there weren't two different colors on yh4 hatch. The black roof stopping before it gets to the taillights creates kind of a "shelf" effect that detracts from fastbacl design. IMO either paint it all one color, or carry the black all the way through the bottom of the hatch.

When you're saying 40/60, are you meaning 40 rear and 60 front? Generally front to rear weight bias is referred to as F/R. Removing 100lbs from an engine on a car the size of an S130, all else being equal, is going to shift the weight 3-4%, not 10%. I think an average driver is going to have a very hard time noticing that difference.

What shape are your suspension bushings in? If they're extremely worn, it's possible that under load the suspension geometry could change, despite it being aligned correctly while static.