calZ

Your logs say that it's cutting ground or you just measured that at the relay? If it's the latter it could be a wiring problem rather than the ECU.

I don't know much about 2JZs, but at those HP levels you'll definitely need to do some chassis strengthening. The two links below should give you examples and ideas for basically everything you'd want to do. https://imgur.com/a/R27sh

I have the TTT rear end kit. Obviously I don't have the custom 8.8 rear cover, but I'm putting in a short nose R200. The parts are amazing. The machining is great at the coatings seem good. That said, it comes with absolutely zero instructions. There are labeled bags of fasteners and the setup is relatively simple, but a set of written instructions with torque values would be nice.

240Z

What's the lever arm on the caliper look like? Could you drill a hole further down it to reduce the required travel?

You might be able to just go at it with a hammer. I'd try that before cutting.

As the title says, I'd like door mechanisms for both sides. I'd like the full set of latch and rods, but it for some reason you only have part of it, I really only need the rods for the exterior handles and locks.

I think it's deceiving how close the tires are to the flares. The car is built for time attack, so it will at the very least give enough clearance for racing. As Mark said, I'm not sure about on the street.

The car looks great! What size tires do you have on it? They look small to me.

Right, that is an issue. I was just addressing the original comments about the rear of the diff not having bushings.

To be fair to Apex, every short nose R200 kit uses that same setup. T3, Arizona ZCar, and Apex all have solid rear mounts. Even the stock mount is solid in the rear.

Wouldn't just deleting the posts have the same effect?

I thought about that, but I think I'd rather not mess with threads and integrity of the shaft.

Thanks. I'm aware why the D-shape is there, I just didn't realize some aftermarket shocks came with a matching shaft. My setup from T3 with Koni Yellows has a round shaft. T3 probably assumes everyone will use their camber plates rather than stock mounts. I guess I'll just get to work with the file and round out the mounts.

But they're round? I've seen several people mention enlarging the hole, but never a word about having to change the shape.

Question for everyone else: in that thread, they mention the strut tops being threaded and having to drill them out. My original and OEM replacement strut insulators are D-shaped. What am I missing?

l follow this guy on IG and YouTube, and he is opening up pre-order for copies of the flares he originally made for his time attack 240z. Thought some of you who are looking might want to know. https://www.industrygarage.com/shop-online/s30-flares-pre-order-special

I had Jesse buy me a steering wheel off yahoo auctions, and wouldn't hesitate to do business with him again. I lost a few auctions before winning one, and he was always very prompt in sending the deposit back after I requested it when I lost. Super responsive even in non-business hours as well. The steering wheel came packaged well enough to survive if they had just thrown it out of the plane over my house, so he doesn't skimp there either. It took me like 10 minutes just to unbox it.

You need to be a donating member to post in the for sale section.

It's a 1971, so it's smog exempt. Possibility of back fees on the registration, but not smog issues.

Care to share this math? By itself, I don't think it would make a huge change, but eventually a lot of fractions of inches add up to a foot. Done alone I don't think it makes sense. If you're building the car with a mantra of "get everything as low as possible", then I say go for it.

Just think of it as shedding weight! Slightly smaller means lighter.

Everything looks fine for me

Spec sheet says 1.5mm air gap, but it depends on the target type. The Subaru ring is on the edge of the recommended specs, so I was worried it wouldn't read well. That doesn't seem to be a problem though.

Finally borrowed a power supply to test that the sensor and ring worked together. I didn't have an oscilloscope, so no waveform, but using a multimeter I could see the voltage alternate between supply voltage and 0 as the ring spun. That was kind of the last box to check to make sure this would work, so I'm basically considering this solved. If/when I grab some T3 uprights and do the final design, I'll update and upload the drawings for anyone to copy.