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And if there isn't room for the stock AC compressor, using one of the modern electric compressors would be an option too.

I'd love to see the whole appraisal. It would be very interesting to see what they consider valuable and what they don't. I'll PM you my email address

It will likely come down to cost. If they cost $1k you'll sell a million. If they cost $3k you'll probably sell 3. There have been billet cranks available for the L-series in the $3-4k realm, and there's a much smaller market for those than the real V07s in the $1-1.5k range

Removing them as an included item would be an interesting decision. If it's this difficult for a company ordering a large batch to get a supplier to do them correctly, imagine how difficult it would be for a single set? I think having to source your own custom axles would turn a lot of people off from the kit.

I think the rear would look a lot better if there weren't two different colors on yh4 hatch. The black roof stopping before it gets to the taillights creates kind of a "shelf" effect that detracts from fastbacl design. IMO either paint it all one color, or carry the black all the way through the bottom of the hatch.

When you're saying 40/60, are you meaning 40 rear and 60 front? Generally front to rear weight bias is referred to as F/R. Removing 100lbs from an engine on a car the size of an S130, all else being equal, is going to shift the weight 3-4%, not 10%. I think an average driver is going to have a very hard time noticing that difference.

What shape are your suspension bushings in? If they're extremely worn, it's possible that under load the suspension geometry could change, despite it being aligned correctly while static.

Did your engine have an automatic transmission attached to it before? If so, be sure you've removed the flex plate spacer/adapter from the back of the crankshaft. It's sometimes pretty hard to tell its there, and a very common mistake.

You're not the only one that has had communication issues. I think they got a little behind on stuff and have responded by going mostly silent.

Multiple people have put either a door lock popper or a small hatch popper in the hatch near the latch. Since the lock cylinder just presses a lever arm, it's not too difficult to make a cable pull that same arm. The only visible change would be two added wires from the hatch to the body, but running those next to the rear defrost power wires would hide them quite well.

Fantastic work as always, Derek.

If it's a street car, why not just keep the standard seat belts?

Converting to 5-lug hubs has no effect on your transmission. Are you wondering if you change your hub pattern and wheels if it's going to affect your speedometer accuracy? Wheel diameter doesn't matter at all to your transmission either, only tire diameter. So I guess to answer your second question, there is no need to change your speedometer drive gear if you do not change the diameter of your tires. If you do change the diameter of your tires, no, the speedo gear will not magically know this. Your speedo will read faster or slower than reality, depending on if you increased or decreased the diameter of your rear tires.

Pusher fans don't really need shrouds. Is there any air gap between the sheet metal and the rad? From the picture it looks like all you're doing is blocking flow.

From Apex or the other company you contacted?

I'm on here far too much and would gladly handle spam removal and broken post duty.

Your profile says you're in NJ. Is that still correct?

On the other hand, I think the fact they used a bushing is nice. I would rather buy these than ones with a heim since my car isn't a track car and I still care about the NVH. Being able to dial in the alignment perfectly while maintaining stockish vibration control is an option no one else really offers.

Your profile doesn't show any donations. I'd message an admin and make sure it went through.

Yep. There's an adjustable screw that sticks out of the right side of the stick, and then you can see the little raised gate on the right side of the shifter. You just push down to get the screw under the gate, then right and back.

https://cbfperformance.ecwid.com/?fbclid=IwAR3coSAvNYyxmT9zswBRPN5cLTERir6rBSnmzrz5xSi-kPHWmUIaOGmyrgc#!/Gen-5-Billet-CD009-Rear-mount-Shifter/p/67395190/category=0 This is the shifter that Hoke sold with the L-series to CD009 adapter. He didn't make it, and it's further forward than the one he produced. Without an offset handle it works with the stock shift boot, but might need a bit of trimming at the back. I'd guess that with the offset you might not have to trim.

He didn't say prop valve on the rear, though. He said a prop valve on the front.

Spot on. I didn't have the time to email or call last night, but I sent them an email today with the pictures. I got a response in 4 minutes saying they'd take care of it, and another email 40 minutes later saying a new set with proper packaging would be on the way within a couple days along with a return label for the original set. I've never had to deal with T3 post-sale before, but it's good to know that their customer service is excellent.

Agreed. Everything I've ordered from them before has come individually wrapped in bubble wrap, then packed nicely and foamed. For some reason they cut corners this time and the parts paid the price. They only had to go from Sacramento to LA, so I can't imagine what they'd look like if they had gone across the country. I also agree that the scratches probably won't matter. The bearing just rests on those surfaces and doesn't rotate, so as long as the seal doesn't snag I think it should be fine. I'm still going to email and let them know someone mailed it in this time though.