calZ

Are you planning on having it epoxy dipped or having it sprayed?

Yeah, I wouldn't think the water pump is sucking from the lower rad hose with the turbo water somehow avoiding that, traveling upwards, and going through the turbo. I'm with ZHoob.

It's a spam bot. Just ignore it.

There's a guy on Facebook in the Church of L-Series group selling a complete engine if that's what you're after.

34psi? Are you running an L28ET or something else?

Just south of Sakakawea. I went to HS in Hazen. There's a guy in Montana selling what looks like a decent Series 1 shell if you're really after one. https://m.facebook.com/groups/995586513795146?view=permalink&id=2481289638558152&fs=2&focus_composer=0&ref=m_notif&notif_t=group_activity Not sure if that link will work or not.

Any swap is possible, it just depends on the work you want to do. There are 2JZ crossmembers for sale that make the engine swap pretty easy, and a T56 swap has been done a lot, though I don't know it anyone has put one behind a 2j into a Z. You'll have to do some hammering on the tunnel and make a custom crossmember, but that's not too difficult. Hoke Performance makes T56 crossmembers if you want to just drill holes. I assume NDFarmer means North Dakota? What part? I grew up there.

Mounting ears like that are designed to be loaded in shear, so I'd keep an eye on what the added bending moments do to the mounts over time.

Chris has replied pretty promptly to me in the past, despite not posting here much anymore. Try sending him a PM.

You have to donate before you can post in the for sale section

Floors, under the battery tray, spare wheel well, exterior doglegs, and the hatch sill are the most common areas. You should also check if the frame rails are crushed or not. That's a relatively easy replacement, but it's good to check what condition they're in.

The thread is about dual masters, so he presumably has different sized master cylinders and a balance bar that he can use to dial in the differential.

A member of this forum has their kit on her car

While someone might randomly have your answer, this is a Datsun/Nissan forum. You'd have better luck on a Chevy forum.

There shouldn't be a pdf converter needed on classiczcars either. They have full color wiring diagrams, which I thought you might be interested in. If you've noticed the combo switch plugs differ between the diagrams, wouldn't the most direct solution be comparing your combo switch plug to the diagram and getting your answer? Or is that part of the harness not intact anymore?

I'm not sure about the early/late designation, but this page might help you. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

Hoke Performance makes a great LS swap kit.

Bad Dog Parts and Zedd Findings seem to be the go to for most around here.

So you're looking for a relay, not a switch?

People spend $8k for the Arizona Z Car track pack and don't get double a-arm suspension out of it, so I think there's definitely a market.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1144449702402173&id=164254480421705&fs=0&focus_composer=0 The Retrospec shop burned to the ground.

Might have been better to put that in a PM

Sounds to me like it's possible the force-sensing units take a bit to react, but the ones working off a speed sensor signal don't. Anyone with a SilverMine setup? They use a speed signal, so that would help figure out if my guess is correct.

McMaster has a pretty good selection of clevises if the pushrod switch doesn't work out.