randy 77zt

injector size x duty cycle /bsfc x # of injectors-got this off of http://www.rceng.com -this is a rough calculation of hp by the amount of fuel used.

i use it -but since i am a klutz with a computor it took me awhile to figure it out.i would assume that it takes your data log and compares it to your programed a/f map and generates your new corrected map.for a long time i just ran my ms with the auto-tune turned on and the innovate wide band as an input.but you can tell this wasnt working-the innovate a/f guage was hunting all over.and i ended up with engine damage.after building a new motor i decided it was time to learn more about tuning the ms.i run data logs on an old ibm laptop -it records them onto a floppy.then i pull the floppy run the datalog thru megalog viewer .its great to watch the fuel table numbers change while the program is doing its work.i am guessing that if the tables are very close you will see the a/f numbers on the innovate gauge hold more steady.when i do run datalogs i run unleaded race gas-the engine wont ping as easy on a lean mixture.i just installed a new cam (isky 7181) and now i have a part throttle lean spot and 3000 to 4000 rpm-the innovate gauge is mounted between the tach and speedo on double sided velcro tape.hopefully it will be time for a dyno run soon.the last cam generated a 92% duty cycle on 42lb/hr injectors-maybe bigger injectors are coming.my goal would is 350rwhp on 91 pump premium with out pinging-but i think the n42 head is causing problems-c/r os calculated to be 8.3/1

mark 8 = rwd.continental=fwd.sometimes you can pick these up cheap=they are expensive to repair things like air ride suspension.

stay very far away from any ford 6.0-i used to be a ford dealer tech-they are junk.i dont know about chevy reliability but if i was in that market i would looking at chevy with allison trans.manufactures need to make a smaller mid size truck that gets about 28-30 mpg with enough muscle to tow max 5000lb.a truck thats easy and fast to use-easy to park. a 4.0l turbo diesel would work.

i think its time to review the engineering of the frame on these cars.to many bad accidents have happened lately.maybe driver in a kevlar tub?the f1 cars look pretty stout lately.

if you are using new clutch kit get the flywheel machined-it not worth cutting corners when you have to take trans back out .if the flywheel suface isnt right you will get judder on take off.some of those 1 day clutch shops can get kits with new daiken parts-best cheap clutch-this was oem datsun stuff .i ran daiken 240mm set up for years on my turbo car with 12 psi.

i would take the idle timing down to about 12-14 btdc,then lean it out some .if you are running old injectors get new injectors or have the old injectors cleaned & flow tested-the spray pattern is critical for emissions.fat drops of fuel from old injectors dont burn completly.cam timing or a non stock cam can raise hc.i have had well tuned cars pass california emmissions with hollow cats.the cat is a mop-up for a poorly tuned engine-fuel should be burnt by the engine.program some kind of ignition advance curve into the ms-take advantage of its capabilities.idle should be 12 -20 btdc.cruise should be 36 btdc or so.full throttle about 28 or 30 with no boost.my retards back to 24 btdc after 4 psi boost-it pings on crappy 91 cali gas.looked at readouts-you might have lean misfire-try retard timing and about 13.8 or 14 a/f

if you were in iraq you have the best excuse-thanks for serving

very much enjoyed watching him drive when speed channel carried wrc-dont know what to say about this.rip colin

i have 3 bikes-2002 yamaha fz1,1987 honda xr 600,1969 honda sl 90

sounds like ford automatic trans.by the time they revise the parts 8 or 10 times it takes to many parts to upgrade 1st generation trans.as far as the dealer techs repairing trans-the techs dont like doing trans repair-its because %90 percent of dealers pay the techs on flat rate pay system.it takes too long to repair a trans and when you have this sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach knowing you wont get paid for that extra 2 hours that it took to make sure it works 1st time you would rather just slam a new trans in.another problem is if you fix it no you are held liable for how it works and if it comes back within the first few days after the repair you will be working on the car for free.the car companies dont pay enough on warrenty repairs and the techs get screwed.

you can do an inframe rebuild because most diesels have removable cylinder sleeves.i have done some diesel work once in awhile.started a detroit v6 with the governor cover off-big mistake.

tony- if your on the road there are 2 new motels by my house in north modesto on 99.pm me for my cell and i can take you out to dinner.about z cars and smog-i have smog license and a swapped out z.problem is with cali is your doner engine MUST have all that extra stuff like egr, tank evap system hooked up and installed.a person should have a very good understanding of how this stuff works unless you want to make many trips to the ref .may car passed first try but was checked by me on my own smog dyno before the trip to get the prized door sticker.another problem is car will probably get sent to test-only stations every 2 years.

will i guess some body ought to come up with an ebay for guns

those good use thier own seat belt

there is nothing that sounds better than ferrari v12-that car probably sounds very good at 4000 rpm.

do they salt the roads in the winter there?last april i towed a boat from california to new jersey.in illinois,ohio,indiana i noticed the bottem of the bridges are all rusty.probably from 3 or 4 months of wet winters.something most californians would think about.the eastern span of san francisco bay bridge is getting rebuilt because of earthquake standards.the bridges in sf bay area are getting painted non stop.bridge tols are $4-up from $2 2 years ago.

looks like a very clean install-nice sleeper car.

my 77 has working factory a/c-compressor is smooth and quiet.mounts on 4 threaded holes on lower left of the engine block.those old a/c were american piston compressors and took mucho hp to turn.plus not a very clean install.

i have a/c on mine -run my idle at 1000 rpm.but i have old ms 2.2 that cant control idle and i dont feel like upgrading.you might need a cat convertor to pass -but you will probably need time on the machine to tune for smog.if you get too lean or put too much timing on you will raise nox.is your wideband used for an input to the ms?the ms can be turned to autotune and run on the a/f table-but it will run better with a good fuel map loaded.i have been using the megalogviewer program to rewrite my fuel map and a datalog run.it will correct your fuel map from a 1/2 hour datalog.you can watch it rewite the fuel map while it replays your datalog at realtime speed.

i have been dinking around with my l28et but i am getting tired of trying to find good combo of low end torque vs late high end hp.that swap should work good even if motor is left stock-it will be pulling 800lb less weight

it would be fun to take her for a test drive

1st post-most first posters get ripped for not using search function.this has been discussed here lately.car will probably be a bit slower but get better fuel mileage.only nissan diesel i have seen that would be easy bolt-in would be old 810 motor and that wasnt turbo.you would need a 4 speed od auto trans or a 5 speed with a tall 5th-diesel motors like to turn slow.

you need a 75 or 76 tank-it has 10mm line out and 8 mm return.it will starve on a track like sears point below 1/4 tank if your car handles well.or do like some owners do and cut out the spare tire well/trunk floor and install a fuel safe or atl cell that is premade with in-tank efi pump.dont even think about those fake summit fuel cells-they wont pass tech

i think there is a good american made pump with a new style of impeller that is more efficient.also make sure it is a v-belt pump-some cars with serpentine belts turn the pump backwards.