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HybridZ

SleeperZ

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Everything posted by SleeperZ

  1. That bracket looks a lot like the brackets I got off eBay. My kit specifies Maxima calipers and late 280ZX rotors. I have not installed it yet, but I have mocked it up on the bench with a spare strut and it all fits together well.
  2. I've been wrenching on cars for 30 years now, and engine swaps into the Z will tap your knowledge and experience. IMO, you are getting way ahead of yourself. I love the S30, so I can understand your ambition. If you decide to get one for the potential of swapping in a more powerful engine, fix it up and tune it in stock form first. Make some mods, do some restoration, start small because the impact of mistakes are less and you will gain experience you will not otherwise get.
  3. Period-correct was never defined. The OP stated it meant a 6 cylinder engine, and for some reason the RB and 2JZ did not qualify but obviously would be easier to build to 600-700 hp. The goal for the car was drag racing* , so it would have to have a full cage to run 9s. * Road racing was also mentioned, but the compromises in building a 9 second Z involve reducing capability on a road course, so it was not a serious consideration.
  4. What is the strut length and lowering range as compared to BC Racing?
  5. The bolt pattern is common, but zero offset is less common. Perhaps the issue is more with rubber, as there is not much choice for performance tires in 16"? Why is a 5 lug conversion a bad idea?
  6. Grille blocking definitely helps aero for the reason you listed. People who modify for maximum fuel economy typically install partial grille blocks, keeping that air from getting underneath the vehicle.
  7. Technically, it would be the conduction from the metal to the sensor that could be the issue. I wouldn't be particularly worried about it, but I would try to fix it as it represents a tuning inaccuracy and may contribute to driveability issues. Personally I would verify that it is the issue, then try to insulate the sensor body from the metal plumbing.
  8. I am using a single coil, and I just hook up the coil negative to the tach. Works fine.
  9. If the temperature sensor is installed in a hard pipe or the manifold, I can see the indicated temperature rising with falling airflow, assuming the sensor is not insulated and the hard piping is warmer than the intercooled air.
  10. With Megasquirt, there is only one sensor on the intake, that is the air temperature sensor. That sensor should be somewhere between the intercooler outlet and the intake manifold. The MAP sensor is built into the MS unit and sensed with a hose on the manifold. If you are still not certain, post some pictures of your intake and plumbing.
  11. That's excellent advice. Monk3y, you will do well to follow that systematically, then you will find what is causing the problem and get it fixed. And your car will run better as a result.
  12. Just 80k miles? Change the fluid and run it. If it leaks, replace the seals.
  13. If you can fit a fuel pressure gauge to the rail, I would check the fuel pressure. As well as making sure the vacuum line to the regulator is tight and not leaking.
  14. Looks like you are a bit too rich. You could have a leaky injector or a mis-adjusted airflow meter. You are running a catalytic converter in Oregon? Even Federal 280Zs would do better than 2% CO. Have you checked your fuel pressure?
  15. Wow, their price has really dropped. Looks like a nice product.
  16. I'm not sure why you think power "estimates" based on a drag time slip are not accurate. They are far more accurate than dyno variation in that you are guaranteed to be making the minimum power to move your car to a certain velocity within a certain distance and time. That is very exact physics and is not subject to variability. Weight is known, velocity and distance are known precisely, there is no guessing how much power is being produced.
  17. That frame rail shot shows some serious rot.
  18. I think you need to be a donating member and post this in the for sale section. Edit: I stand corrected, my apologies.
  19. I agree, your alternator appears to be good. But some auto parts stores do not know how to correctly test them either. Before I learned much about auto electrics, I took an alternator in for testing, and it tested good. But that was only because they did not load it, as soon as a load was presented to the alternator, the voltage collapsed. It was due to worn brushes, not a bad internal regulator.
  20. Perhaps at higher rpm the plastic blades are getting pulled forward as a reaction to pulling in more air?
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