SleeperZ

Of course those would fit, great idea. How do you like them? How did you attach the 280Z sliders? Are you sitting closer or farther from the floor? - I need to retain headroom for a helmet...

I use my '89 Toyota pickup. Like a tail wagging a dog.

You need to define your power goals to size a turbo appropriately. The stock T3 0.63 exhaust works well for most power levels up to 360-400hp. There are a number of T04 compressors that may work for you, I have an old one that is not the most efficient, the V1/V2 (T04B), the T04E 50 trim is a good choice for that power level, but there are many options. I was looking to get headwork with oversized valves done, but I was told there may be too much shrouding by the small bore of the factory block to get the full advantage of the larger valve. I suppose you could eyebrow the bores, or maybe I was given incorrect information.

That looks great!

I'm going to disagree with malibud, headwork is very important to make reliable power in a turbo. But the stock L28ET is well equipped to make 350-400 hp reliably. More than that really requires more flow accomplished by headwork matched with a good cam. Reliability is related to heat management, so if you can keep intake temperatures down with good intercooling and appropriate turbo selection, you can run healthy spark advance and avoid detonation. For more power, headwork to increase flow can make higher power levels without ridiculous boost increases, so it's easier to (again) keep heat levels down.

With the grille, seems like a pretty good deal. I paid $120 for an air dam alone on ebay.

Yeah, I would think so, as there is a worthwhile mod to make I need to do, which is pinning that gear to the shaft. Make sure it doesn't slip, once installed.

That makes no sense to me. The crank/distributor ratio should always be the same, turbo or non.

No doubt. I'm still trying to get Megasquirt going, for two years now. Kids, wife, work, home, never ends. Sorry, yes, nice build, love it.

350-400 hp is basically a factory engine with more fuel and air. I'd put money into your cooling and lubrication to make it more reliable. You are looking for basically the same thing as I am. I think you'd be throwing money away with forged pistons and a custom cam for that power level.

In a 240SX?

Slowpoke, I'm interested in how low you set your suspension, and how much travel you get, compression and rebound. I want to get this kit and use it on the track, and I have not yet decided on spring rates.

A horse of a different color! Welcome. Could be a tight fit.

You might try getting an invite to the email group zroad@googlegroups.com There are a lot of Z enthusiasts that post to that group, and you may find someone that is interested in taking on your engine. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/zroad.

I do appreciate your feedback. You are right, I suspect the weak points in this ECU design are related to current, and with 6 low impedance injectors I may be pushing its capabilities. I might be able to fix this whole damn thing by simply adding resistors and killing the PWM - I hate to admit defeat, but reality does not care about my ego.

Of course not. I am using PWM so I can open them quickly with full voltage and hold them on with a lower voltage. Using resistors with low impedance injectors is defeating the purpose of having them. I have done some re-wiring. I added some tantalum capacitors across the PWM circuits, and the 12V is pretty stable even during PWM, I get maybe 0.5V of variation. I also routed the grounds for the injector MOSFETs directly to the DB37 connector. The periodic missing is decreased, as a matter of fact it's completely gone until the engine reaches operating temperature, but it still kicks in. I don't know yet how I am going to fix this. When I get time, I will continue to probe the signals with my scope to see if I can pinpoint the issue. It's a huge pain in the a$$, I certainly did not anticipate this level of difficulty with what's supposed to be a developed product.

Nice intake setup! Fuel injected ITB, best flow.

Wow, what a freak of nature. Nice vehicle too!

Actually, on most pickups it's more aerodynamic with the gate up.

Had a few minutes last night, so I took apart my MS3 box. It already has the capacitor on the H1 boot pins. But I read a lot of this thread on the MS Extra forums, and it is worth the read, very enlightening... http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=28178 Apparently this circuit board was not designed with any substantial current carrying capacity. I work as an electrical engineer and have designed many switching power circuits, so I know the importance of not only how one routes return currents, but how much copper one should put in for the amount of current being supported. Needless to say, it appears that the modifications people are having to make are due to these issues with the board. Now that I have determined my tach input is not the cause, and I have already re-designed the coil trigger, now I need to focus on the batch injector firing, as I have 6 low impedance injectors, 3 per bank, using the PWM for keeping the injector open. It looks like I need to disconnect the ground connection from the FETs that fire the injectors, and wire it directly to the DB37 connector pins for the main ground, and keep all that current out of the circuit board. It also looks like a substantial amount of noise from the PWM circuits is also being routed into the +12V that operates the MS3. I don't think I will try to route that out of the box, although that is the best solution, but will simply add the capacitance to the +12V at the transistor pins. Hopefully those mods will fix this issue.

What's the issue with your air/fuel ratio?

It does look really good, congrats on the car and the write-up.

It should work with that universal sensor. Unless it's wideband, the extra wires are just for internal heating to meet emission requirements before the engine warms up. Do keep in mind this sensor and gauge are only accurate around 14.7:1 air/fuel ratios, and not accurate at richer or leaner ratios.

I am running batch injector fire per the MS wiring diagram, 2 banks of 3. The miss is enough to badly fail emissions testing and my wideband goes full lean. It may be missing more than just one spark, raising the possibility the MS unit itself is periodically shutting down.

You must have installed a vented cap, otherwise you will collapse the tank as your pump draws fuel.