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HybridZ

SleeperZ

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Everything posted by SleeperZ

  1. I replaced my heater valve (ripped AC out years ago) with a manual Ford unit because the original was clogged. Maybe your heater valve is the same way.
  2. Presumably that cam was just defective, the new one should be just fine.
  3. If you need to maintain 43.5psi pressure on 10psi boost, you have to be able to flow fuel at 53.5psi.
  4. Hmmm, Chevy vs. Ford. Sounds like fodder for an internet war... :0
  5. Welcome back, nice to hear you are still around. Very sorry to hear about your son. I've moved south to Centennial this summer, and am working on the garage so I can finally debug and program my Megasquirt and get my 280Z to High Plains at long last.
  6. If you are sure there are no suspension issues, I wouldn't assume the issue is one of 240Z vs. 280Z, but possibly due to rusted structural parts of the 240Z. Sounds like it could be an issue, so be sure to find it before changing chassis'.
  7. I'm thinking I got my best 60' times by not spinning, but I ran an open R200 when I was drag racing. My best was 1.7 seconds.
  8. Doesn't offset grinding also increase the stroke?
  9. There is a reason the L28ET distributor has a larger diameter cap, which is to allow a wider range of spark advance. I don't think you can reliably get that with a locked N/A distributor. In regard to the SVO injectors, they flow 370cc/min, which does support about 300hp. I dynoed an altitude-adjusted 313hp to the wheels with those injectors, but for reliability I think you should use a higher flow unit for 300-350hp.
  10. There is a spot on the engine for the oil pressure sender, use it. Fuel pressure is best measured on the rail that supplies the injectors.
  11. I love mine, looks like stock without any coolant or vacuum line foolishness.
  12. Yeah, a horsepower rating sounds impressive, but to accurately specify a CV axle, you'd want to state how much torque it can transfer.
  13. If you aren't drag racing or drifting, you should be good with the suggestions already mentioned as you will never stick that much power down. Technotoy has a really good solution for stub axle and bearing, and just about any CV and R200 solution will serve you well. But there is nothing cheap about 500+ hp/torque, so don't think a "budget" solution is going to be reliable at that power level.
  14. Why not turbocharge your L28E? All the same parts bolt to it, and for modest boost levels the slightly higher compression does not make a difference.
  15. The hubs and rotors have different offsets between 240s and 280s. You can swap them as a unit, but for factory setup, you must mate 240 hubs with 240 rotors, and the same with 280s.
  16. 6 60mm throttle bodies feeding a P79 head is a little like putting a 4" exhaust tip on a stock Honda. Your restriction is the head, and 3 60mm throttle bodies would be overkill.
  17. You need to figure out how much power you want to make before you can get good answers to your questions. It might be a good idea to fit the stock engine and components in first. The rear diff is really strong, you will not have issues with that unless you want to run faster than 12 second quarter miles. Given that, you might have heard what 400rwhp Supras have in common with 800rwhp Supras? Answer: 12 second quarter miles.
  18. Really? 102dB is really loud, it's not a huge power hit to drop that below that fairly generous 96dB limit.
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