BluDestiny

Could you snap some pics of the turbo exhaust manifold? I want to see how you ran the BOV.

Found the link. Searched " whale tail comicartist" http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105648-id-this-wing/page__p__988506__hl__%2Bwhale+%2Btail+%2Bcomicartist__fromsearch__1#entry988506

His name on here is ComicArtist. I mentioned that in my post.

I believe comicartist couldn't get any information. He posted a thread asking the same question. Just search for that and see if anyone else responded to the thread. I know he had a picture of the brand. Edit: you can also sorta see ots not a perfect fit, but that could be from its age. He also attached it closer to the glass.

With 10k I would: Do all the suspension first: Take all the current suspension out Throw away the TC rods and then sand blast and coat the Front control arms, rear control arms and rear subframe Buy S13 solid rear subframe bushings and go to a machine shop with your rear subframe and tell them to make them fit (turn down the inside) Buy poly urethane front and rear control arm bushings After you get the control arms are back install zerk fittings into the control arm joints Buy the Techono toy tuning T/C rods Get a set of Lighter rated Used S13 coilovers (the 6-7k range) Have a shop adapt the front strut tubes Buy an LSD for the rear (either a subie r180 or the 300zx r200 depending on what I had and how fast I wanted to put it together) Install everything back in place, this should cost you around $3-4k depending on how hardcore you are. when I did it it cost me $2500 for everything minus the diff. Then I'd get the silvermine front brake kit Redo the rear brakes with better pads Then buy some nice fitting rims and sticky tires My wheel tire combo cost me $1100 so with brakes probably $1800 Then I'd focus on engine power: Stock turbo compenents can all be had for like $700 (That's how much I've paid) I'd make sure everything is in working order (rebuild turbo, have injectors cleaned, sandblast some parts etc..)$300 Then I'd get a fidanza flywheel and probably a spec stage 2+ clutch ( $600-700 for clutch and flywheel) Put that all together and use a manual boost controller to up it to 10psi with an intercooler and slightly higher fuel pressure, turn back timing if needed. You've spent like $7000 and you'd still have money to spare. Now this is assuming you're engine will handle it, but even if it can't I'd use the current engine in the car since you know it works, and then buy a junker for like $150 and have that rebuild at a shop which should run you $2000ish. costs have varied for me, a basic rebuild with stock components has cost me $1500 while another with forged pistons and boring and balancing cost me about $3000(on this rebuild I include the price of the pistons and the clutch flywheel combo).

Looks good

You have some really large pictures...could you please resize them so I can see you're whole car on my screen

Yeah actually give him a call if you can. He is a really nice guy, but I still stand by the "if you don't have it on hand, I won't buy it". I'm never ordered anything from him that he couldn't ship out same day. And even then I could always just pick it up when I was in Cali.

What year ZX do you have? I'm asking because I have a spare for an 81 model ( the one without the big windshield wiper switch). Also I couldn't find a single ZX in any junkyard. I also know someone parting out a ZX so he may be able to get the part you need.

Could just be the ignition switch. I would replace that first after checking the way newzed said, with a screwdriver. Mine had the same problem, would take a couple tries to start (or get lucky and catch on the first try) then it got worse and worse, to the point I couldn't start it without trying for 5 min. So I went to autozone and bought an ignition switch and swapped it in the parking lot in 30 min with a screwdriver. Never had a problem since. I don't know why you went straight to a push button when you could have easily checked the ignition switch. edit: just watched the vid and it was exactly what my car was doing. Swap out the switch and report back.

Not much if its off the same on both sides. If its off on one side more then you may get some pull when you brake hard. You did a pretty good job on the paint, but why did you leave the side rubber bumper things in? That's like the first thing I get rid of. Drill out the molding, weld up the holes, use filler to smooth it, and bam clean side profile. Edit: also is your front lip fiberglass or Urethane? and how do you like the new rim/wheel combo? do they sit flush and stuff?

Words Can not express what you've been through, but thank you for you service and commitment to your country and its people. As andy said, that is a great starter project. AS you get better, so should your Z.

If you think the issue is too much fuel, then get a fuel pressure gauge. check the fuel pressure before and after. Could just be your old fuel pressure regulator is stuck open or broken.

I gotta get me a 71 240z and do this swap.

I'd like to see they hydro setup. and just pics of the interior in general

I don't get it, why does he need another car? Like for a template?

Did you also get the tundra? Your sig says you have one.....

He's not using an RB block, just the pistons. He's still using an L28 block with an LD28 crank.

Looking good. One thing, but maybe it's the angle of the camera, the wheels look closer to the insides of the car, like you have caster. How are the bushings in you're suspension?

Probably not. Last I heard OniZ sold his Z

Those aren't turbo injectors. Those a NA ZX injectors.

Put me down. Unfortunately I'm gonna be studying abroad in France from Sept to January, but ill be back at tw start of 2013.

Just saw that, only read the rim dimension The tire choice is poor. You should probably go with 205/55/15. Its a bit bigger and there are plenty of tire sizes.

Numbers 2 and 4 don't really work with each other. And your not gonna make a 300hp na engine without spending more than your budget. You'd have a better chance making that with the L28 since it won't require modification to fit. All your other engine choices will require fab work/down time and isn't worth it. If you want it cheap, your gonna need to go turbo. If you want a smaller, lightweight engine that costs $1500 and can make 350hp on stock internal get an sr20. They are cheap, reliable and parts are much more available. I would spend right now just on handling and see where that takes you. I have a pretty stock L28 in my 280zx and I put up respectable lap times in my scca class. That's just my opinion.

yes, you may need to roll you're fenders, but that's just piece of mind.