BluDestiny

Touge Factory (TF-Works) in Chicago would probably have some seats for you to try. If not they would definitely know someplace that does. What I think you're going to struggle with more than anything is that the s30 is narrow anyway. The should area has to be pretty width limited. So you'd need to start looking at seats with a narrow should width or no shoulder bolsters.

He means the motor had to physically be raised due to wastegate interference with the steering column. I ran into the same issue with a sr20 bottom mount setup. The steering column was going directly through where the turbo sits. So I had to go top mount Everything else is being fabbed up, so it'll be a custom fit for me.

Custom Oil pan ftw Solid lifters and Tomei poncams Steering Column interference

I'd go LS. Being in the midwest I'm not sure what you mean when you can't find a donor. I see tons of F body trans am's that have rust or are smashed from being put in ditches in Iowa. since you know the LS series anyway, why not start with something you enjoy?

West end alignment in gardena. Talk to Darin. He will also corner weight your car if you have coilovers.

Joe, the r180 axles you make should work with betamotorsports subaru stub axles right? Currently have a subie r180 with the adapter stubs and stock 240z axles with a lot of slop and squeal. I was considering the Wolf creek kit due to cost, but after seeing those photo's I'm thinking of going with either you or DSS. Can you PM me the cost and lead time of them as well?

It's worth it, that peking to paris car is a work of art. Also John C and John Benton are cool guys.

Hit up Scott Burkhart. He'll know a lot of the Z guys in that area https://www.facebook.com/scott.burkhardt1?fref=ts

God I want that stuff but it probably cost more than my chassis restoration will lol.

That looks like decent work. Are you planning on adding bracing or just repairing stock? I'd also wait for John C for some input since he knows some things about welding these cars up.

Those comp numbers look ok to me. As for that drilled out holes crap, my car came like that also, don't know why people think that's a good idea. Diving right into the stock efi, full of vac tubes is a daunting task. It took me a long time to really figure out everything so I don't blame you for the carb swap. The chassis looks to be decent shape so that's a good sign. Good luck.

I've known several members run them for stock rebuilds. As far as I know they work great.

Yes it should. It is listed for all 74-78 years, assuming 2+2

A tube chassis is not a roll cage. So I'm not sure what you are asking. And generally any rollcage bent for a 2 seater won't fit a 2+2 because of the length and mounting point differences.

Does Rebello count in that area? I consider anything north of san fran to be northwestern.

I feel if you could just get the stubs on the wheel side you can piece it together for less. I saw they use porsche CV's which is what the DSS and wolfcreek both use. But if you're running enough power to be braking the stubs on the wheel side, why wouldn't you just go with a solid rear? My plan is to use a subaru r180, wolfcreek adapters, wolfcreek axles, and stock stubs. Don't plan on ever having more than 300whp.

These issues are why I'm just going with the regular style front lower control arm.

Sounds like rust in the tank. I would swap in a clear filter somewhere.

That is a ton of weight. The only time I've ever seen that many weights is when I lost a wheel and it scrapped a chunk out of my wheel. They had to balance that out. I'm also surprised they are using both sticky weights and rim weights. What is the speed rating on those tires, and how soon after the 140mph run did you get the wobble? edit: There are also multiple types of falken ziex. Was it the 912's?

I would also like to note, that if this car goes in for welding/patching up the chassis, I will be using this as a guide I would be doing 2, 3, 4, 8 at a minimum. Although that's dependent on the shop. I do have an RT mount to go in when the diff goes in.

So I have a 1970 chassis, that has some pinholes in teh floor plans (at first glance I was thinking nothing about even replacing the pans), but I know zed findings floor pans actually help stiffen up the car. I also would like to do a full T3 suspension setup minus coilovers (already had them). Plus it'll be getting a subaru r180. This car is gutted, PO actually drilled holes in the driver side floor to lower the seat mount (mounted it directly to the floor with a tube welded in front). so that would be a reason I'd want to replace them. Right now the wiring is micky moused to the point where I'm surprised it's not shorting on the chassis. Some of that was also from me attempting to get it road legal to drive it home. The body itself is also a little beat, and I found out that there is bondo on the driver rear taillight corner area. So at some point I want this thing stripped and gone over. I know this is not cheap, was quoted 10k to strip, do body work, and paint interior, engine bay, and exterior (not including seals and whatnot) which I believe to be appropriate. This is not including me replacing the floor pans or bracing anything else up. I want to know what order to do/get things done. My plan would be to take it to someone to get the electrical done correctly preferably with a relay set up and modular harness (like all the gauges tied up to a common connector or something). Then bring it to a place that can strip it and possibly weld in new floor plans and a roll bar/harness bar. Then bring it to someplace for paint. Then once that's done do all the suspension. Ideally I would like a place to do this all, but the only place I can think of in the LA area that I really trust is Bensons (?) specifically John C. So if you could chime in that would be awesome, but I'm also wondering what other people would do. This car is being stored with my brother in Los Angeles, I live in cedar rapids. So I don't care so much about down time. I also figure this is around a $20k ish investment to the chassis. I will be back in LA for Thanksgiving, and also during xmas, so I'd like to have an idea or plan of attack for when I head back. To be clear, this car is running and driving for the most part ok (it needs front breaks, and the diff whines but that's what the subaru r180 is for). Pictures below show the condition. Here is the wiring, and also messed up gas tank venting Floor pans: passanger driver I don't have pic of the tail light area damage, but this is the driver rear wheel wheel, and it is smooshed. doesn't show up that well in the pic. I don't mind it too much since I'm hoping to get flares to cut that part out anyway. Plan is also to get a fiberglass hatch w/ lexan and cf hood.

In regards to the doors, if they are the same body style yes. So any coupe will swap with any coupe for the door. The front fenders are interchangeable for all years and all models.

There are a ton of guys out there. I would actually start on the datsun parts and needs facebook page and ask Scott Burkhardt or Jonathan Ortiz for connections.

I'd like to either buy or possible just test fit a set of these on my Z. I will be in the Los angeles area nov 20-29th. I will be going to nissfest. PM me here or contact me at 818-919-4242

Are you limited to a metal hood and hatch? lightweight battery possible?