NewZed

Just a guess: I think that the flasher needs a certain amount of current (heat) to actuate. You might have low current. Your right side is probably not very bright, maybe just needs a cleaning. Bad ground maybe. Or bad contacts in the Hazard switch. Power runs through the Hazard switch on the way to the switch and lights. Check Body Electrical for an easy to understand wiring diagram.

Based on further research I withdraw my comment about just using a stock gasket and running it. Unless you pull the ring from the groove, or the ring is flattened in to the groove. Fraught with peril...

My mistake. I was thinking of the o-ringed block only. In that vein though, you could go all the way and do the block. Either way, I think that you're supposed to use a certain thickness of ring, depending on if you use both grooves or just one. If yours is too thick, designed for two grooves, it could stand up the other sealing surfaces. Better check. Some say head OR block, some say head AND block. http://www.bhjproducts.com/bhj_content/products/blocktooling/org.php http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0108-isky-groove-o-matic/

I'd set a head gasket on the bores and if the metal sealing ring of the gasket covers the o-ring grooves, just put it together and run it. Unless you're building a race engine that you plan to use and abuse. Why'd you show a picture of the head and not the o-ring grooves?

So that you can adjust the pressure to zero? Where does the pressure start and where is the gauge located in the system? Is it pump unplugged AND zero pressure. Or is it one or the other. Coincidence. And, as soon as I plugged the pump back in it died, OR is it as soon as pressure increased it died. One could be electrical and one could be fuel pressure. Kind of sounds like your injectors are shorted and wide open, flooding the engine. You can check that with a meter. Key On they should measure the same on each terminal of the plug (measure from the back of the plug with the injector still connected to the injector), about battery voltage. If they're shorted one side will measure lower voltage.

This can mean so many things.

Pretty sure he meant conformable during the installation process. And the word is friable. Fryable means cookable. Anybody working on an old car with original parts is probably looking at asbestos in brake pads and shoes, and clutch discs. Much more of a worry than a static gasket clamped between two pieces of metal.

You're exhibiting signs of cognitive bias dissonance. The 71B used the 240mm clutch on the 2+2 cars.

Be careful that you don't pull it completely off though. Pretty sure it's removable. You could probably remove it, insert it in the hole, then push the booster in to it. Just guessing.

Actually, that's what I was trying to say as my first thought. Most people equate JB Weld with crude though, so I spent more brain time and went with two machined surfaces as option #2. More expensive, but all metal when it's done. Disassembly, welding, machining, and reassembly seems like a lot of work for what it essentially just an oil seal holder. Not much load to deal with, unless it gets dropped again.

A little lubricant like WD-40 and pulling it from the inside will probably do it. Pulling will make it smaller. Pushing makes it spread out. It's supposed to be a tight fit though, it's a seal. Make sure the hole doesn't have old sealant making things difficult also. You can make a crude thread chaser by filing a slot on the inside of a nut. And you can clean up damaged threads with a small file and some patience. Also, if you have extra thread and the damage is at the tip you could just grind the or file the bad portion down. Just make sure the part that does the clamping is in good shape.

The flat part of the spacer. AKA the mating surface with the MC. Where the spacer and the MC meet, to the tip of the rod.

Factory Service Manual. Not Haynes or Chilton or other. Rod adjustment is in there too. Edit - didn't see Miles's Hai(y)nes comment. I prefer the factory book myself.

Most of your questions are answered, with illustrations, in the Brake chapter of the FSM. People do get wrong parts from the reman companies though. Don't forget to adjust the booster rod to fit the MC.

I'd set your head gasket over the rings and make sure the gasket sealing ring matches the o-ring. Today's generic one-size-fits-all head gaskets might not work with an old race engine. Get on the interweb to see about the o-ring's purpose. They're used on all makes, not just Nissan. There's a ton out there.

You should get more information. Does the E88 have stock size valves? In stock form the P90 would have bigger valves. Does the 89mm bore contain flat-tops or dished? What is the stroke of the "Rebello" engine? Maybe it's an early stroker. Does the P90A have hydraulic pivots or solid? That's a consideration. Take cylinder pressure measurements to get an idea of CR. You miked a sketch on a piece of paper? I would have used a ruler.

Never mind, I just went and looked at one and your rear seal seat is broken. The welder guys probably know for sure but welding might damage the slip yoke bushing area or warp things. Just brainstorming, you could probably fabricate a ring around the remaining case, maybe a machined aluminum ring that presses on, then fill fill the inside with JB weld to do the sealing. You could even install the seal and fill the gap. Or cut the remainder off at the base of the break, fabricate an aluminum ring with a seal seat, and press it on. Luckily you still have a machined surface to attach to (marked it in red on your picture). I could see a two step ring, one to the housing outer diameter and one to the seal diameter. Heat it, press it on, and your seal seat is back. No welding. It could be cut on a lathe. It would add a little bulk but be barely noticeable.

Looks like the rear seal still has seat area. The part that broke is really just dust shield material. You could probably fabricate a plastic piece that presses over, from a piece of pipe. Or just run it as-is. You said shaft in the text but I think that you meant case like in the title.

You can take a jumper wire from coil (-) and tap it to ground with the key On. That will cause a spark from the center wire if it's close enough to a ground. Are you trying to figure out why your engine won't start or just being very thorough? You might just have a bad module.

It's bolted to the transmission, in front of the clutch fork. You can see it if you look down behind the starter from the engine bay. The clutch hose is connected to it. The starter is below the battery. The battery is on the passenger side of the engine bay. Under that cover. You might leave the Google and open the FSM, Clutch chapter. Lots of good pictures and advice in there. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals If you're trying to refill and bleed old crusty master and slave cylinders you might be wasting your time and fluid. They tend to corrode inside easily and blow seals. Worth a shot though.

Yes, with no current flowing the + and the - of the coil will read the same voltage, battery voltage, to ground, with the key On. Just measure at the terminals of the coil, with everything connected. Hook it up like your picture and it should be ready to start.

I screwed up and thought you were doing a brake master cylinder. The clutch master cylinder doesn't really need bench bleeding. It doesn't even have a bleed screw like the brake cylinder. The clutch system will almost gravity bleed itself. You can bleed it by finger from the slave cylinder. I think that's how I did mine once. Open the bleed screw and push the piston in with your finger. Tighten the screw and let go, and it will draw from the reservoir. Do that several times until you see clear fluid coming out. Kind of like a vacuum bleeder, but using the slave cylinder piston spring. I also have an old shovel handle that is perfect length for pressing the pedals and jamming against the seat. That works too.

All I'm saying is not that close to mimicking 100% ethanol. It probably gets you on the curve, but you'll be extrapolating instead of interpolating.

You're showing a blue wire in your drawing from the coil negative to the tach. Is that the Blue that gets no voltage above? If so, that would mean you have an open circuit in the coil. The coil is bad. With the key On and engine off, voltage should be the same on positive and negative sides of the coil. But you need to measure it with the wire attached to the coil negative, not disconnected. Power IS getting to the coil on the BL and BW wires. Otherwise, everything looks correct in your picture It should work like that, with a good coil. don't forget to make sure the distributor body is well-grounded also. That's where the current goes after it passes through the module.