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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Wheel+Lug+Stud/02990/C0337.oap?year=1982&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209350&keyword=wheel+stud
  2. Sounds like maybe injector heat soak. AKA "hot start problem". And the misnomer of "vapor lock". That would be independent of the engine management system. Thoughts abound on cause and solutions.
  3. Thanks for the link, interesting reading. The next page after yours has the same question I'm asking. There doesn't seem to be any supporting (no pun intended) information out there about problems if you don't add a bearing or cut the shaft. Just "just in case" thoughts. Nissan went to a plastic locating collar at the end of the distributor shaft with the ZX distributors. Might be easier to fabricate a Delrin or nylon bushing, than going with a metal bearing and assembly. http://the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4476&start=30 Just wondering. I haven't seen any reports of failure or wear from those that haven't supported the shaft end.
  4. The numbers look right. Be aware that the PCV system is connected to the intake system. A leak in one is a leak in to the other. Described in the Emissions chapter. Also note that many of the old AFM's run lean. The sputtering is a sign, along with popping back through the intake system. Adding a potentiometer to the coolant temperature sensor circuit will allow you to add fuel across the AFM range. It works. Don't mess with the AFM. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html
  5. Does the way the engine runs change? Sound or performance? Could be that your gauge is affected but not the actual AFR. Bad gauge readings can lead you on a wild goose chase.
  6. I think that the rest of just wanted to be included. I have a 280Z. I feel left out.
  7. That's a good thread. Lots of good references inside also. Manifold, head pipe/header, and exhaust system commonly get blended together and confused. Lots to think about. I'm not an expert, I just read a lot. Thanks for the redirect.
  8. You mean Tool Shed? He must not want much help. A stud is a stud, it can't be that special. It might be a bolt though, a unique one. Unclear.
  9. Words and their proper usage are key to really understanding how things work. What I said can't be qualified with "technically, I'm right". You wrote something that is geberally wrong. There's no "technical" involved. It's just wrong. Thank for the link though. Here's a direct quote, just for fun. Although, there's no guarantee that the DSMTuner guy is completely right either. "There is a common misconception that engines need backpressure in order to run properly, generate low end torque, etc. That is simply untrue. Backpressure is a bad thing. Always."
  10. The part for the Z31 BW T5 (FS5R90A) has Z31 in the part number. Might mean something. The 280ZX T5 is also the FS5R90A. Probably just a different bell housing. Number of teeth is shown in the part description.
  11. You did not actually figure out the problem. Those two things are unrelated. Good luck with the new/old cars though. Good to have a hoard of spare parts.
  12. That's a lot. If you can't find the info on BW gear colors you could just bite the bullet and get one with more teeth and swap it in. See what happens. You'll find the closest match eventually.
  13. There is some good general engine knowledge on their web page, that translates to liquid-cooled engines. Informative reading. http://www.geneberg.com/techtips.php
  14. I copied and pasted it directly from their web site. Thought it was humorous, an obvious typo. The Driveshaft Shop must have a Hybridz mole, they fixed it. Good for them. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/subaru/r180-stub-with-porsche-930-108mm-cv-mount
  15. Thanks. I was thinking of sectioning actually, not dropping the BC tube over a stub. My mistake. Nice work.
  16. This is the part people have problems with. And you have no details. Nobody really cares about the other stuff. No offense.
  17. The pin is #15 in your second diagram. Retaining pin. But, checking the center position seems like a good way to check the fork location. Sounds like they're okay. I'm not sure what stops the fork from moving forward though. Maybe that's the problem. 2nd gear might use the same stop as 4th, so that's a sign. Figure out what stops the shift fork travel. Might be the detent balls on the shifting rods. The notch or the ball might be damaged allowing too much travel. They're in the adapter plate (center section) under those bolts. Found a drawing in the FSM that's interesting. Maybe you're missing a "fork rod ring". Don't know what they do but they look like stops for the rod. I've been in to a few transmissions but they're not my forte.
  18. Would have been informative to see where the inserts are in 3rd gear. Maybe your shift fork is moving the coupling sleeve farther than it should. I've messed with a torn down transmission (didn't put it back together though, it was beyond fixing) and did have to hold those inserts in place to get the sleeve around them so they would pop out if you move the sleeve too far. Check the shift fork's position on the shaft. You might have a broken or missing roll pin. Kind of looks like your shift fork has moved on the rod. If that's not it, there's a Hybridz member, duragg, who has delved deeper in to these transmissions than most. Not the early ones like yours, but I believe the internals are about the same. Might be worth shooting him a PM with a link to your thread to get his attention. He's around, but not recently. Here are a couple of his threads. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110792-high-rpm-shifting-dynamics/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109855-green-machine-online-logbook/
  19. Those signs are typical of a bad tach. Not sure why they do that and I've not seen anyone post a way to fix them. How to remove and replace those items is described in the Body Electrical chapter. If you have a dash cap you'll have to try some tricks or maybe even remove it to get the instruments out. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/
  20. This guy has one, apparently - http://whiteheadperformance.com/product-category/240z-260z-280z-70-78/240z-280z-diff-differential-axles-lsd/ Where they actually come from is often discussed but rarely confirmed.
  21. I made my rail but it's essentially like the ones made by Pallnet, link below. Either type, barbed or O-ring, seems to work (there was a discussion that supported this, on another forum). My insulators are experimental and made from kitchen sponges, installed after the system was put together (didn't want to take it apart again). But they made a difference. I'd use the newer plastic mounts instead of the older aluminum and Bakelite two-piece units if I was starting from scratch. Your engine may already have them, they're common. I have a set I'll be installing next time I take my system apart. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99098-pallnet-fuel-rails/ Your tach problem is interesting because the tach will show signs of a bad ignition module. They go bad independently too though, so may not be a factor in how the engine runs. Post some pictures of the engine so people can pick at it.
  22. The factory sets their distributors up to have full advance by 2500 - 2800 RPM. Curves are shown in the FSM's, Engine Electrical, if you want to browse them and see. BRAAP had some recommendations and discussion in the post linked below, Post #30. Engine size would not be a big factor. Maybe bore-stroke ratio but still nothing to suggest continued advance up to 4000 RPM. Your curve seems unusual. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/page-2
  23. It would be interesting to hear the builder's rationale. Confused maybe? Or maybe he knows something. Who is it? Are we calling them "frost" plugs now? How about "pretty darn cold" plugs? Or "time for a jacket" plugs. "Hope my block didn't crack" plugs. No offense, just amused.
  24. The only way it could "kill" the FPR is if the flow rate was so high the pressure built up and blew the diaphragm. I've never seen anyone report this. If you have a pressure gauge you'll know immediately if the FPR is in danger. Your friend pulled an Ace Ventura on you.
  25. I had a fan for a while. But an aluminum -6 size fuel rail and insulating the injectors got rid of the problem. The fan is gone. That's if it's the typical "heat soak" problem on a good-condition fuel system, intact, with heat shields. The problem is from engine heat buildup, transferring to the injectors and rail when the car sits, not necessarily related to outside temperature. Since you've only had the car two days you might wait and see what else you'll be working on. But there is a ton out there on the internet about "heat soak", "hot start" or "vapor lock".
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