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NewZed

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  1. NewZed
    Use CTRL F and "ignition" on this page - http://www.megamanual.com/MSFAQ.htm Here's a few samples - http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vb921.htm http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/TFI.htm http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm
  2. NewZed
    I just recalled that there's one more possibility, common to the Z's - output at idle tends to be low. So, depending on what the machine measures, it may have seen no voltage because the the measurement was made at idle speed. Today's cars have ECU's that bump up the idle RPM to make sure the battery stays fully charged, and the testing machines are designed for them. Our old Z cars don't have that feature. One more reason to get a meter and check for yourself. It's not that hard to do.
  3. NewZed
    Your 1977 car probably has an external regulator, which could be a factor. Plus, if someone has messed with the gauges, the L wire may not be getting power. The parts store alternators are of generally poor quality. People have more problems with new replacements than iwth old Nissan parts. You'd be much better off to measure a few things on your current setup before replacing anything. And most of the guys at the parts stores that run those machines only know how to connect wires according to whatever instructions they have available. They don't really know if they're right or not. Many people have received erroneous test results at the local parts store. Find a multimeter and take a few measurements.
  4. NewZed
    Yes, that means the engine is running from battery power alone. "No Voltage" is being produced by the alternator, either because the alternator doesn't have power to the L wire, or because it's bad.
  5. NewZed
    If the fan's pulling itself in to the radiator you should be able to see it move while revving the engine with the hood open. If it's the engine moving, you won't see anything. Simple test, wear a face shield, or full-face helmet while experimenting.
  6. NewZed
    Another thought is that it's not the engine moving, but the radiator. Never know. Might be more effective to stick a jack under the transmission tail and see if it can lift at all. That's what would be happening. Careful on jack pressure.
  7. NewZed
    This logic seems backward or warped. Seems like you've decided that choked off air supply is the problem and are trying to force observations to fit that model, with the "reversion" (whatever that really means, especially at high air flow) and the above. Sometimes it's hard to do but you might try letting go of that idea and see if something else makes sense.
  8. NewZed
    The transmission mount is the third, rear, "engine mount". Looks like it's broke.
  9. NewZed
    There's an S, two D's, and an I attached to the periphery of the picture. You have to look at the other drawings to match the letters. The magnet valve is described a few pages away.
  10. NewZed
    That guy wrote a lot of words but never addressed what he said he was talking about. The one thing that could be a factor in ported versus straight-to-manifold is the Venturi effect and Bernoulli's principle. The pressure difference at the throttle body port might be greater than at the fairly static wall of the intake manifold, because the air is moving faster through the small opening at the throttle blade. That would lead to more advance at low throttle opening for ported than for direct. You'd have to generate a timing versus throttle opening curve to know for sure, or pressure (vacuum) versus throttle opening, at the two vacuum sites. Seems like there should be that effect so my comment about "once you open the throttle they're the same" is probably wrong. Logically though, assuming the same pressure differential at both positions, the only reason you should see a change in performance is because you retarded your static timing to lower the idle speed. Which everybody will do because idle timing will be more advanced with direct. You'll see an effect but it's not caused directly by the vacuum source. It's an indirect consequence. The logic just doesn't work at larger throttle openings. Timing will be more retarded everywhere with direct. Maybe your timing was just too advanced, in general. With a mild cam you could probably get both to work fine, but the distributor advance curve might need to be tuned for the vacuum source. Just finished a pot of coffee....
  11. NewZed
    I've found that different ignition systems can affect how the tach behaves. I have a GM HEI module and my tach wouldn't work right until I put a capacitor (condenser) on the blue wire. I'm not saying that will fix your problem, since apparently neither one of you has confirmed that the blue tach wire is actually connected to anything. No offense intended, but that's step #1. You can't do this kind of work effectively without using a meter and taking some measurements. Since you know where the blue wire is at the module, the simplest thing to do is to measure voltage at the wire end with the engine running. Or even with just the key on and engine stopped. If your meter has frequency measuring capability you might even try that to see if there's something to count - but that's complicating things, so don't even think abut that yet. You're both doing too much hoping. Just get a meter and figure out what's happening.
  12. NewZed
    Sounds like you're not sure. Could just be a jammed circlip. Look in to the hole. Take the cover off and inspect. Post pictures. We like pictures. You might be jumping the gun on a "swindle". If he knows the cars and you've left nasty misinformed messages he might be avoiding you for good reason. It's difficult to converse with people who don't really know what they're talking about, especially angry ones. Confirm damaged goods first. The T5 needs more than just a console trim.
  13. NewZed
    Your first question is really - "are the transmission and diff ratios of a 1983 280ZX 2+2 suitable for an L28ET in whatever car you're planning to install them in?" Maybe. There's more to the calculation. They don't seem to be what the typical turbo ZX had though, if that's what you meant. In other words,what you traded ws not the same as what you received. The transmission in the ZXT was probably the Borg Warner "T5" which takes work to install in a Z. Which is probably what you have. If you gave good parts away,any good parts, for broken parts, that's dumb. Are you sure they're broken?
  14. NewZed
    Attached a sample from the FSM. It's in the Air Conditioning chapter. The small vacuum hoses at the vacuum solenoids tend to split and leak. One sign of no vacuum is cold air from the center vent at all settings. The vacuum bottle needs a good source. There's electrical valves that need power (can't remember if they're normally open or closed). It looks like some engineer had a wild idea and nobody stopped him in time. It's a mad house. If you have a fairly intact system, don't tear it apart assuming you'll be able to figure things out later. There's a lot of hoses and nipples and the labels on them don't make much sense. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/
  15. NewZed
    Are Gus and hwvigo the same person?
  16. NewZed
    Doesn't the adapter change the loads across the engine transmission interface? What used to be handled by the outer shell, or bell housing, with good leverage, down to the front cover bolts, which are on a smaller circle. If I understand the concept correctly. The front cover probably isn't designed for those loads, although it may be fine. Worth keeping an eye on.
  17. NewZed
    Others have mentioned this - air close to the road is actually pretty hot. Pavement absorbs sunlight and heats the air close to it.
  18. NewZed
    Check the carpet.
  19. NewZed
    Has there ever been a better brake shoe to consider for the Z system? Tens of race pads to choose from, but you don't see much on shoes. I've also found that the aftermarket shoes seem to be designed for already turned, oversize, drums. The diameter of the shoe is greater than the diameter of the drum, so a new shoe only contacts on the ends. Lowers the contact area, making weaker brakes. This is likely, although it may not be seizing - " it pulls to the left when I brake, i suspect a seized front passenger caliper". I had a newer caliper on one side with an older one on the other. Just the mismatch in seals, either age or quality, or design, caused a pull. One set of pads hit sooner than the other. The rubber seals in the calipers are what determine pull-back of the pistons in the cylinders, and pads from the rotors. .
  20. NewZed
    There's a return spring attached to the throttle linkage. It's kind of hidden behind and underneath the throttle body. They break. The boot has little to nothing to do with throttle return besides maybe getting in the way. There was also an issue with the PCV systems up to mid-77 where the throttle body and blade got gummed up inisde with crankcase vapor residue. There was a Nissan fix, rerouting the hoses, but not all cars got it. You can fix it, in the medium term, by cleaning the inside of the throttle body with carb cleaner. Take the boot between the AFM and throttle body off, open the throttle and you might see a bunch of brown varnish and gum inside.
  21. NewZed
    As soon as you touch the throttle you go to manifold vacuum. Idle settings and driving settings are two completely separate environments. So when you're driving, you're always on manifold. Ported vacuum is used to give you a low advance and a steady idle. Not jumping around due to vacuum pulses. It's pretty simple if you think it through and the arguments about it are just nonsense. Hit the gas and the port opens. The datsunzgarage site is just one guy with a Z who's good at putting a web site together. Not a team of experts. Of course, I'm just one guy on Hybridz, so it's a break-even.
  22. NewZed
    Just remembered something that I did myself on my first ever clutch for a small block chevy. 1979. I put the disc in backward. The disc springs rubbed on the flywheel bolts when the clutch was disengaged. Bad noise was produced.
  23. NewZed
    You'll be back.
  24. NewZed
    This implies that movement can be caused from the outside - pedals, cylinders, and linkage - but something's wrong inside. Assuming the "bad noise" is coming from inside the bell housing, there's not much you can fix from outside. You've already defined the range of movement as from "nothing happens" to "bad noise". If there's not a happy spot in between those two, you're kind of screwed.
  25. NewZed
    The hazard switch contacts can get corroded and dirty. Take it out and clean it up with some contact cleaner. You might be able to pop it out the top without removing the console, if there's enough wire to get it disconnected. Watch the tachometer when the stuttering problem happens. If it's working normally, but starts jumping around or reading incorrectly when the problem happens you might have an ignition module problem. It's not uncommon. There are other parts that have been known to overheat also, like the fuel pump, and various relays. Those are a little bit harder to diagnose. Here's a reference. Read the Engine Fuel and both Electrical chapters. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/
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