NewZed

You might also pull the distributor to see if the drive gear is damaged. Apparently they get damaged often if the wrong gear material is chosen. Here's a good story. https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/selecting-the-correct-distributor-gear-its-all-about-the-details/

No need to apologize. It doesn't sound like you need a new distributor. Your mechanic is suggesting that the distributor timing is off. The chevy small block distributor is driven by the camshaft, which is driven by the timing chain. It sounds like your mechanic thinks that you've lost cam and distributor because the timing chain or timing gear is not working right. That fits with the fuel spitting back through the carburetor. The valves aren't opening and closing correctly. Unfortunately it might also mean bent valves. A simple way to check would be to measure cylinder pressure. If you get the same numbers from each cylinder then you might be able to fix the timing chain/gear and be okay. If you have bent valves you'll probably get some zero pressure cylinders. Good luck. Be prepared for bad news though.

People probably saw your other post. You wrote a lot of stuff but it looks like you just want to know which distributor you should buy. Your new post has the same misspellings and bad grammar and run-on punctuation. Really hard to read. Couldn't you have spruced it up a little bit? Looks like you drank ten cups of coffee before writing it. Why don't just fix the one you have? It's just a small block chevy distributor.

I think that the answer is the same. If that's a 240Z axle swap to a 280Z axle. You'll need a new companion flange. Looks like zcardepot has a 39 spline option but might not have the companion flange you need. Chequered Flag (he owns Modern Motorsports now) used to have a long wait time or certain order size before he makes his parts. There's a variety of possibilities out there. Not sure that any are simple. Good luck. https://zcardepot.com/collections/rear-axle-and-differential/products/outer-axle-racing-chromoly-240z-260z-280z-70-78?_pos=1&_sid=6cde3c5c6&_ss=r http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/drivetrain-26/240z-260z-280z-oem-rear-stub-axles-4-lug-with-companion-flanges https://whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/cv-conversion-stub-axles-companion-flanges/

I thought they were in this one. My mistake. Still, the same thoughts about criticizing apply. Be careful. Sorry tube, I got my Apex threads confused.

I just thought it would be good to see the progress on Hybridz. The point of the thread. Good luck.

I was joking about the fact that the last two months worth of posts have been erased, apparently because they were too critical of the product. Only positive posts are allowed now, apparently, and yours was suggesting that people might not have the fitment that they thought were going to get. It might be too much, I guess we'll find out.

Careful.... you're getting close to the edge there. Can you post the Instagram links? Are they "unboxing" videos?

My mistake, although it might still be right. Back to positive thoughts anyway. Carry on and good luck.

Heat works well. If you have a heat gun you won't have to worry about leaked oil or undercoating catching on fire. But, people use torches to remove that plug all the time. It makes a big difference. You don't have to get it red hot, to where the fluid or gasket get damaged. Focus the flame around the plug but not on it.

What would the mods mod? This forum is its own thing. Facebook is a whole different ecosystem. There's a discussion happening here, which is what forums are for. Facebook is people posting about random things that they like. I went through the first six Facebook links and found projects in progress and private Facebook groups. I didn't learn anything about the products. Ohmster says he will be fine, that Hybridz is a small community and Facebook is large. Doesn't seem like he needs help. People know where to look now for more information. No need to do any moderating here. It's just a thread of experiences and opinions. Everything seems honest.

@ohmster101 Equal time. How are things going?

He's still forging ahead with new products, taking orders and deposits too, you'd assume. Wants your stimulus money. https://www.facebook.com/apexengineered/ https://www.facebook.com/apexengineered/photos/a.169350783569251/1006884353149219/?type=3&theater

The heart of the problem is here. Ohmster did not "make things right". He, apparently, gave up on a customer and left them paying for his poor work. If Ohmster really is inundated with orders then he should have chalked this one off as the cost of development, to be made up on future successful orders filled. But, again, apparently, he's using the customer's money to support his development costs. So, these types of stories are valuable and are the reason forums like Hybridz exist. The possible causes of the difficulties are many but how Ohmster handles the problems will determine if his business succeeds. These uncomfortable stories help people decide if they want to take that risk, or if they just want to "donate" their money to a growing business. Nobody can fairly complain about the guy that reported a bad experience. They're doing the unsuspecting future customer a favor. So far, there are numerous delayed orders, some bad axles, and one "completed" order that left a customer dissatisfied. Time will tell, hopefully, if things get better. A person would think that at least one or two other people out there had received their complete subframe orders by now. Feel free to add your story if you have one.

Ohmster already said what the issues were. It's not a COVID or supplier or outsourcing issue. And he's an engineer, he says, so the issues with fixturing and fit should have been foreseen and manageable. He's just a guy who took on a big challenge, to start a business, to make money, and he's having problems. No free passes in a free market economy. The poor spelling is a bad sign, in general. Attention to detail. These stories have been told before. Hope he makes it. He's the only one that can make it work. So far, nobody has reported a successful installation of this kit. He needs to get some good product delivered. Bad product delivered is not going to work, obviously. Good luck Ohmster.

Relays aren't a bad idea, in general. But the V8 versus L6 issue only matters to the battery cables. The small wire only powers the solenoid, which actually has its own relay at the end of the stroke. Minor point. Maybe Chevy used a bigger solenoid and draws more current. Or maybe Chevy has a bigger safety margin. But it's the solenoid draw that would matter.

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Forgot to say, he's a member here, but he doesn't respond to notifications either. @zcardepot.com

How long ago? I've read a few things. The company is run by one guy and I think he's getting too big to keep up.

You're probably thinking of dropping the strut and letting it swing out while still attached to the inner mounting points. Sometimes it's possible to do that, sometimes you still need a spring compressor to get enough room to get under the fender lip. Then, even if you do get it swung out, you still need to remove the spring, and gland nut and strut guts (stock internals or aftermarket shock), before cutting the tube and installing the BC parts. How you decide to do it depends on how much room you have and how good you are at figuring things out. It's actually somewhat convenient to have the strut attached to the car, if you don't have a bench and vice and fixtures. The guys are right though, if you're asking about the gland nut and avoiding spring compression, you'll want to do some more studying before starting. This one? https://www.bcracing-na.com/product/br-series-coilover-datsun-260z-280z-1974-1978

$1500?

Did you win? It's a gasket. https://www.google.com/search?q=oil+filter+gasket&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&oq=oil+filter+gasket&aqs=chrome..69i57.3881j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

p.s. the Nissan filter would be the obvious starting point. p.s. 2 that gasket would not normally be considered an "O-ring". It's a gasket. O-rings are more complex, although a quick Google shows that the term is being dumbed down (no offense) to refer to any gasket that is round. https://www.parker.com/Literature/O-Ring Division Literature/ORD 5700.pdf

Is it a Nissan part or aftermarket? Seems like you could peel the gasket out of a filter and it would work, if you find the right filter. A sensible engineer would design the seal to match an oil filter seal, since the sealing surface is the same.

That sounds correct. If you know the colors you can just bridge them earlier in the harness, no need to get all the way up there. Unfortunately Nissan changes colors at the connections for some reason so the wires in the harness might not be white.