NewZed

You can browse around the site below for part numbers and check at the second one for availability. I saw your other question. I'd guess that many viewers are shocked at the carnage. Most would probably just get another transmission or tail housing. The specs. for rebuilding are in the Factory Service Manual in the MT chapter (also below). http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionCase/5Speed/tabid/1702/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/ www.xenons130.com/reference www.xenons30.com/reference

You're talking about the tension/compression rod. People do rubber in the back and urethane in front because all-urethane has led to the end of the rod breaking off in some cases (mine did). Plus all urethane can lead to much more noise (creaking and groaning), at least it did in my case. To be clear though, I did the rods without doing the control arm bushings. I think that the worn bushings put more load on the T/C rod bushings in certain situations. Some people do fine with all urethane, but the urethane in the back only sees real work in reverse. It's a better-safe scenario.

It could be 280Z (two wires that come out of the side of it would lead to an ignition module), 280ZX (it would have a black box [the ignition module] bolted to the side of it) or Mallory Unilite (popular for the 240Z's, ignition module under the cap). Got a camera? Here's the last one - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4042

What's under the cap? Points or electronic?

You should study up on the basics of how engines, transmissions, and clutches work. You have a ways to go. The Factory Service Manual is actually very good as an educational book, it's worth reading.

Seems like somebody could make a few dollars producing gland nuts if they wanted. They're not very complex.

Tight dowel hole maybe? Or are the holes definitely in the wrong spots?

Did you try the other two orientations? They only fit one way although they look like they'll fit three ways. Spin it.

Bilstein no good or won't work?

I missed that piece. Seems more like the relief valve in the pump then, but if you've tried two pumps that would be unlikely. You said that you have a mechanical gauge but are you sure it's reliable? You might have replaced a very bad gauge, the stock one, with a still bad gauge. The liquid-filled gauges are known to be susceptible to heat effects. Details on the gauge might offer a clue.

Need or needed? Is the rebuild done? How are the results?

How about an oil cooler? Pulled this link off of a Google search because it has a good illustration - http://www.elephantracing.com/techtopic/oiltemperature.htm

The power transistor (also called an "ignitor") controls current to the coil, and the transistor is controlled by the ECU. The 280ZXT transistor is out in the open on the coil bracket and looks like a quarter-sized metal object. The 300ZX transistor seems to be a little more hidden but still looks the same. There's a drawing of all of the parts on page EFEC-4. It's shown under the coil. The transistor does essentailly the same thing that the ignition module used to do on your 77's original system. Except that "dwell" control is handled by the ECU in the 300ZX ECCS, where it's handled by the module in the 77 system. If you don't have a transistor the ECU can't control the coil. The transistor is supposed to be at the end of one the wires in your wiring instructions. Page EFEC-13 shows the factory wiring to the coil, and how the L (blue) wire connects from the coil negative to the transistor (that's where it controls the coil ground). They do go bad sometimes, apparently, especially if not grounded correctly.

Page 93 says "CHECK GROUND CIRCUIT". If you're getting ignition pulse and the ECU isn't using it, maybe the ECU is bad. But you've tried three so that's unlikely. I'm guessing that your CAS isn't right. How did you measure "ignition pulse"? Did you use a "logic probe"? Or did you just measure voltage? You have to have the pulse. That's all I know. I would study the FSM. Inputs > ECU > outputs. Somebody will probably have some ideas if you show what and how you measured and the numbers you got.

Doesn't make a difference. Good luck.

The FSM's don't even show an open option. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/ It will be expensive. You might consider the other LSD's, like the Subaru R180 option: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/78123-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111779-betamotorsports-subaru-stis30-side-axles-wolf-creek-racing/

Pretty sure both of those rely on the CAS signal. The ECU (ECM) gets the CAS "triggers" (more than one maybe) and causes the power transistor (ignitor) to cut current to the coil to cause spark, and grounds the injectors to cause squirt. Different times of course. Have you gone through the troubleshooting procedures in the FSM? Once you're wired in, you essentially have an 87 or 88 ZX, just 280 intead of 300. Code 21 is on page 93. Even tells how to check the power transistor.

Looks like you were almost where you needed to be to answer the last question. Or at least tell you which pins have power and which ground. Probably paged right over it. There are other pin-outs shown, like EFEC 84 for the CAS. That's where I'd be if was in your shoes. http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html Attached a sample.

Blocking the lines with bolts won't hurt anything. The hole in the back of the head is only used as a source of hot coolant for the heater core. If you block the lines the coolant will coolant wil just follow other paths through the head. 1977 uses an external voltage regulator. That might be the source of your voltage (charge light) problem, not the alternator.

The grease could have been there for heat transfer. The modules generate heat. You can buy a small tube of heat transfer goop at Radio Shack or an electronics store.

The "y" should be lower case.

You probably connected the BCDD wire instead. There's a three wire connector in the same area, if someone's had the wiring apart, the length of wire that goes from that connector, below the stock coil location, up and over to the sender might be missing. The wiring diagram will show youwhere the wire colors change also. Sometime colors change at connection points.

This option might be easier - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104419-s30-and-s130-wiring-harness-repair-kits-you-need-this-if-you-have-an-l28e-or-l28et/?hl=harness if you haven't torn things up yet. It gets good reviews. If I was in your boat and wanted to make the 78 harness work I would just open the Engine Fuel chapter of both FSMs and compare wires. There are small detailed wring diagrams in each, easy to understand and specific to the EFI harness only. Most wires will be the same, the ones that aren't might not matter. The fuel pump cutoff might be run entirely by external relays attached to the alternator and oil pump switch. www.xenons30.com/reference

Ignition module. Fuel supply. Overheating relay. Overheating electrical connection. You need to narrow things down. Watch for symptoms like what the tach needle does when it dies, lights or other electrical affected, etc. Do other thngs still work but the engine won't start or is everything totally dead? Car goes, car dies doesn't offer much.

Search over at zcar.com for user "skittle". He has a writeup linked in his sig for using the GM HEI module in place of the ignitor. Seems to work.