NewZed

I looked but couldn't find a reference, in a drawing or in the list at the back of the chapter. I think that Nissan assumed that they would never be removed, indicated by their inspection recomendation that says if wear is found in the bearing surface, "replace cylinder head assembly".

Burned by the Page 94 typo? "How to Rebuild..."?

Your exhaust sounds very loud considering it's going through a turbine. Is there any exhaust pipe at all after the turbo? The backfiring reminds me of what a couple of V8s I've had in the past sounded like when they had a flattened cam lobe. You said that it ran for a month. Did it run well? And is the problem exactly the same as before? Has it always backfired like that? You should summarize the last month or two to give a better picture. It doesn't sound good right now, seems like bigger problems than just won't stay running.

Core.

Did you check the parting surface between the head and block? Look for coolant residue or surface rust. I had an N42/N42 engine that leaked at the spot right above the starter, between the head and block. I don't know if the head was warped or the head gasket just gave out after many miles. It only leaked during warmup and cool down, when the engine was at full operating temperature it sealed itself up.

Start an anonymous poll thread. Should Ben use the 77 cam or the P90 cam? That way no one gets the blame if it fails later. You could also call Isky and ask about the cracked dowel pin hole. They might tell you not to worry about the crack and it will be a no-brainer.

Never mind. Happy holidays.

You could go super way back old school and use paper - ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 East Quartz St. Mesa, AZ 85213 Just an option. You could write him a letter and ask him to check his e-mail.

The first thing I would focus on is the wiring hacks at your fusible links terminal (last picture, with the wire nut). Looks like someone used plain old wire for one, and completely removed a whole link block. You'll have to look at the Air Conditioning chapter of the FSM to figure out your small vacuum hose connections. There should be a connection under the throttle body for the BCDD. Look in the Emissions chapter for a drawing. The Electrical chapter will show you where some of the various wires should be connected. The diagrams have color codes for each wire. White with black stripe is switched power, be careful with it especially considering your lack of fusible links. The blue wire iwth female bullet probably goes to what you're calling the proportioning valve. It's actually the brake pressure differential switch. It activates the brake light in the tach (or speedometer, wherever it is) if there's an imbalance. Described in Electrical chapter. One of the blue wires probably goes from your coil (-) to the ECU Pin #1 so the old ECU could "know" when to squirt the injectors. Engine Fuel chapter. Charcoal canister stuff is in the Emissions chapter also. The wiring diagram would help you. Here's a link to one, can't verify accuracy - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf

Pretty sure that the one on the lower left is the thermotime switch, lower right it is the coolant temperature sensor, upper right is the EGR switch or the top gear vacuum advance switch, upper left is gauge sender. Looking at the picture, not position on the car. There's actually a drawing somehwere in the FSM that shows and labels all of them.

I was just trying to get some details. Couldn't tell how familiar you were with how things are supposed to work. You do know that there should be a few threads showing when the gland nut is tight? "The gland nut will not close..." I assume this means that you can't get the threads started? And, maybe finally, are you using the Tokico gland nut or the old one that you took off? Even if you have the Tokico nut, it might be the wrong one per John C's comments above. They've been known to put the wrong nuts in the package. It could just be the wrong gland nut. Lay your old shock/insert next to the new one and compare lengths.

One last thing. Since your thread is void of any specific measurements or pictures, and vague in general, it's reasonable to guess that you might not be aware that the spacer that comes with the shock is a press fit on the bottom of the shock. About two millimeters of engagement. If you're just dropping the spacer in the hole then dropping the shock on top of it, the spacer won't be centered and it won't be properly pressed on to the shock. This would explain why the right parts aren't working for you. Good luck.

I get the feeling that he's going to trim the spacer down until the gland nut tightens on the strut tube. So it looks right. I hope I'm wrong, and end up looking like an ass.

How far? And when you say they stick out, do you mean that the gland nut won't screw down all the way? Or have you even tried putting the gland nut on? Please don't ask what a gland nut is.

I would take a breather, study what's been suggested, and put a sensible plan together. I have this vision of you throwing everything together, getting it running, then revving the crap out of it until it blows up just to vent some frustration. Seriously, you have several paths to get a good cam in the engine and get things working. The whole cam, cam tower and rocker arm things have been discussed to death on the various forums. The most recommended suggestion seems to be to take the cam, towers and rocker arms out as a complete assembly, with every part in the same order and orientation and swap them over to the other head. Tap on the cam towers as you slowly tghten the bolts to make sure the cam spins freely befoe you torque the bolts down. "Blue" up all of the rubbing parts afterward, spin the engine over a few times, then check for high spots and/or odd wear patterns. This is what I've learned. I've never had a cam off though.

It's in the FAQs but easy to miss because it's in the "L Series" box at the top of the Powertrain page. Lots of other good stuff on the L series page. Here's a link to BRAAP's tips - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Just re-read your thread and see that you don't mention fuel pressure. Are you assuming that something's happening based on the pump noise, or the volume of fuel that you see coming out of the rail's return line? To know for sure, you should measure fuel pressure, and collect and measure the fuel that comes out in a known amount of time. It might not be "losing its prime" at all, maybe it's just a weak pump. Or it might be fine except for the noise. You need the numbers.

Maybe you just have a blockage between the pump and the rail's outlet. Have you tried disconnecting the line at various spots to see if the pump will pump at all? Also, I couldn't tell from your pictures, but you might have the fuel lines connected backwards, or the wiring. The pump will spin in reverse if the electrical connections are backward. It happens.

The dowel pin might be just for location. Clamping force from the bolt would hold the sprocket. The crack might be irrelavant since it's "pinned" by the dowel hole. Just a proposal worth thinking about. Edit - I got curious, did a search and found an old Hybridz thread on the same topic - http://forums.hybrid...-issues-beware/ And another - http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11001&view=next

Could just be electrical noise causing resets. Check the shielding on the shielded wires that go to the ECU. Make sure the shielding is grounded correctly, you might have a ground loop setup. Most shielding should only be grounded on one side. Move the lines away from any wires connected to the coil or spark plugs. A voltage spike can be induced in a wire just by being close to another wire with high voltage. Stuff like that. Pretty sure it's described in the Megamanual somewhere.

Looks like the Nissan factory setup is before the turbo, not blow-through.

Which operating system? My Windows XP system is old, maybe the problems are with the new OS's.

Pictures enlarge fine, with a click on the thumbnail, using Chrome, IE8 and Firefox on an XP OS. The "Next" button is even back and working. This is on a desk top computer, not a phone or mobile. I opened ZFire's humongous pictures in this thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108965-datsun-280z-t5-transmission-swap-kit/#entry1028363 Just adding a data point...

Has it ever run right? Sounds like it's running lean. Low fuel pressure or bad AFM or vacuum leak. Measure fuel pressure first, it has to be right for the EFI to work correctly. Engine Fuel, 1976 FSM - www.xenons30.comr/reference

Pretty sure that you could check for a short through the alternator's main charging terminal (B+) by checking resistance with a meter.