NewZed

Disassemble the electrical switch from the mechanical portion and see if it works correctly. Maybe the electrical portion is over-rotating. You're describing two things happening that can't both be correct. The swatch tested "good", but it allowed power through at Lock. Here's the 5 contact diagram from 1976.

You described a whole bunch of stuff. It's not clear where on the "B/W" wire you measured. And there's a lot of B/W wires in the car. If you're not getting power through the switch with the key in the Lock position then the power on the B/W wire is coming from a short or some other weird wiring thing. You said it all tested "good" which means that there was no continuity from the power wire through the switch with the key at Lock. Disconnect the switch entirely and put it all back together. If you still get power on the B/W wire then the Lock position on the switch is irrelevant. Forget about the switch and keep searching.

Check the wires at the back of the ignition switch. There's only four. Sounds like the electrical portion of the switch is worn out and shorting. You can get replacements. There's a screw that you have to drill or cut the head off of. Anti-theft measure.

People will probably compare what you're offering to the typical piece by piece mods that are done, on the way up to a cage. Here is a thread that covers much of those mods. Might get more response if you break your package up in to sub-kits. More affordable and people can choose between the curvy stuff and the straight line power stuff. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49036-suspension-modification-faq/

Robbo got a response from Ohm through personal Facebook, 8/26 apparently, thread linked above. Might be worth a shot. Maybe point him to this thread, so he can explain. If he's buried with work he might not really be aware of how bad things look, at least on this forum.

Here's some Z numbers, for aluminum. The transmission comes in to play also. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

Can't tell if you tried all of the different options after it finally quit starting or after the starting, running, then dying. But the starting, running, then dying suggests that something is overheating. Coils can overheat and go open circuit, and I think that the MSD boxes put more load on the coil with the multiple sparks. Anyway, try a new coil. I didn't see that in your list. Edit - actually, use a meter and check the coil's properties if you have one. But, even then, it might be overheating as soon as it sees current. A coil swap is probably worthwhile.

Might as well tie these threads together.

Thanks. Can you explain how the flat T3 bar sits farther back than the factory dog bone? Can't tell from the pictures. You didn't shave any fins? The cover fins are as they were on the turbo or 240SX? Just trying to understand. It's not clear, from one picture. You can see from the drawings that a straight line across those control arm brackets bisects where the fins would be. Unless there's no fins higher up. This is one of those situations where if the companies would just show their parts fully installed they'd probably make more sales. Why show half of an assembly.

Doesn't look like it clears the fins of the diff cover. That's what the OP is looking for. The T3 post shows a lot of parts that aren't actually part of what he's selling. Not sure exactly what he's trying to say. The gold "dog bone" replacement is flat isn't it? How will it clear the fins?

Where did you get that picture? Not sure that's all you need. This guy might still be out there.

I just responded to a new guy's thread and he responded back. Now the whole thread has disappeared like it never existed. His name was Hobert. What happened? p.s. And what happened to the Member list? Every site has a member list. Hybridz used to. Where is it? And #2 - this Edit box does not have a Post or Save button on it. Just Edit Topic, which is the button I already pushed. Things are falling apart... Edit #2 - clicking Edit Topic saves the Edit. But that's not grammatically correct. Editing an Edit. Could somebody get in to it and make things right?

I did all of the bushings except that one. As I said earlier I couldn't find a reason to replace the rubber ones that were still in good shape on my car. The problem with making the bushing easy to install by removing the sleeve is that it will be looser than if you stuff it in to the old sleeve. As ZTherapy implies that bushing sees a lot of force. Under power it gets compressed and twisted allowing the wheel to toe in as it tries to push the car. And since the urethane is not bonded to the steel like the rubber is it might slip and move even more. There is a lot of hype in all aftermarket parts. It's the nature of the business, convincing people that what they have isn't good enough. I have no idea what the guy who designed that bushing was thinking. I'm just pointing out that the way that everyone has been doing it is counter to the instructions, and that it gives a bushing that is looser than if it done the way they describe it should be done. I guess that is the devil's advocate's role. I agree that it's ridiculous for them to just keep saying the words when it would be so easy to just show how it's done. https://prothane.com/about/

The video should be on MSA or Prothane's site. Not ZTherapy's. And why do you have to buy the video? Why would the guys at ZTherpay be experts on installing Prothane bushings? The video is about "Hyperthane" from Energy Suspension. I'll bet they just show a guy burning and hack-sawing. p.s. I'm not really arguing about anything. I just find it really amusing when companies make it difficult to use the parts they sell. It's not rational. Frustrated customers are not good.

"Buy" a video from a carburetor rebuilder to learn how to install aftermarket suspension bushings? Seems wrong...

Just because many people did it that way does not mean that that is what Prothane intended. The material is elastic so will compress to fit in to the old sleeve. What's really needed here is the guy that designed the bushing. Maybe he's still out there somewhere. As far as MSA goes, I think that they are just passing on what Prothane told them, or even just what the written instructions say.

Is the edge of the bushing tapered? How will you get it started? It will be interesting to see how the spindle pin fits through the compressed hole after it's installed. Does the pin fit the hole when the bushing is out? Don't overlook that many of the bushings have polyurethane replacement options just because they can. Not necessarily because they're better. The rubber that's in the original bushing is very thin and probably sees little deflection under use. The thicker PU bushing might even deflect more than stock rubber under load. Less metal, more elastic material with PU.

So is it a clutch or a helical? How about a picture? I noticed above that you said you turned one axle and the other side turned the opposite way. They should both turn the same way, in a properly working LSD. I think if they don't that means there's no preload on the clutches or the friction surface for a helical. So, if it's a helical I think that it needs new preload devices, whatever they are in the Subaru helical or new clutch discs if it's a clutch LSD. The typical helical uses Belleville washers for preload and they wear out sometimes. I'm not a diff expert so I might be mixing somethings up. But if you post a few pictures others can tell you what you have and what might be wrong with it. There are many different mechanisms involved in LSD designs, from the way the force is transmitted to the axles, to the way preload is applied, and how much. Anyway, it's an interesting problem. It will be a real bummer if just leave people hanging and install an OSGiken without figuring out what you have and how it works. We're all here for entertainment too, you know. p.s. I tried to find a description of the Subaru Suretrac and all I can find is Eaton's page. Eaton shows a clutch LSD in their video. Can't believe how hard it is to find info on these things even though the cars are everywhere. Just weird. http://videos.eaton.com/detail/videos/differentials/video/4750907910001/suretrac-differential-operation?autoStart=true

Are you doing your own alignments or has it been done professionally? Might be that your car is "dog-tracking", as they say, and the twitch is due to that. Or you do have a loose component but just haven't found it yet. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a111/1272576/#:~:text=This condition is commonly referred,perpendicular to the rear axle.

There's a clutch for each side. They wear. Draining the oil would be the quick easy way to learn more. Take the cover off and see what's going on in there. Check the oil for flakes or fragments. Might be able to pull the clutch packs without pulling the diff. It's possible on Fords, for example. There's other things that can happen like the pinion shaft working its way free. Not sure how Subaru holds theirs in place. Surprising how little there is on the interweb about these diffs. All kinds of Datsun/Nisan stuff. Probably the same as Nissan, but I've not taken one apart. Ford has a bolt that works its way loose at times. Probably want to find that out before it makes its way free. p.s. I've seen threads about other cars where people wondered for many miles about a diff noise then finally opened it up to find carnage. If it's not acting right best to open it up and look before it gets really bad. I shot a pinion shaft through a diff cover when I was a high school kid. Couldn't take the time to figure out why the car took tight corners weirdly. It went straight just fine, and it was a weekend night.

Any chance your rear tires are of different diameter? I had that happen once on a Pathfinder with a VLSD. Took a while to figure out. On clutch LSD's there's a clutch pack for each axle. Maybe you just need new clutch discs,as Seattlejester says. Don't know where to get them. https://www.rallispec.com/dif_ohk_sti_t.html

You should call them as stated above. They might not know. They sell a lot of parts.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4137

You should be on classiczcars.com, where they restore cars. Hybridz people tear them up and rebuild them.