NewZed

The thin wire is probably soldered to the bottom of the well where the actual sensing element is. Follow the yellow wire back in to the harness until you find a break. I don't think it goes all the way to the gauge. Probably a bullet connector somewhere.

I tore my coolant temperature sensor apart like that on my 76. Oops. The coolant temp. sensor has a well like yours. Somebody might have repurposed one on yours. Not really sure what to tell you now. You might work your way back on the yellow wire and see if there's a bullet connection in to the harness. Take it apart there. Or you could just buy a new sender. One problem for you though is to be sure you have a spot for in the T-stat housing. Nissan used several different bore and thread sizes. I think that all four holes are different. Looks like you're n the right hole though. Not sure what a PO put in there. Flip the picture 90 degrees in your head...

Your picture doesn't show where a "black wire" would be. A picture of the mysterious black wire would help a lot, I think. The picture you posted looks like the correct yellow sender wire, clipped on to the end of the sender, and protected by a rubber end. The rubber piece is on the outside already. not sure what's coming "out". Are you saying that the shiny black material is "rubber" and that the whole thing came out? That's not a stock piece then, I think. Not sure why there would be a wire left over either.

Grab the rubber end and twist it to break it free. Stick a wide screwdriver in between the edge of the rubber and the nut and twist it or push, to push the rubber off. It's factory stock and actually looks in good shape. You could remove the nut but the sender might still be stuck in the bore. And coolant will leak from the hole if you remove it. Use a pair of pliers on that rubber end and it will pop off. Don't pull on the wire. Just work it around until it comes off.

Or, if you can count to 4, you can just turn some parts and calculate. Let's not make the world too simple. Phones are softening enough brains already. If you're trying to be sure it's limited slip then pulling the cover is advised. Ratios - too easy.

He only has 4 posts and the last visit to the site was August 21. His youtube account hasn't had a video posted for 5 months. Looks like he tore it apart then got bored with it. Not uncommon.

There's a ground wire on the switch used for the dual pickup distributors. Your 78 doesn't have that. But after 40 years there's no guarantee that your car is still all 78.

Just remembered that I've used the original impact method when removing them in the wrecking yard. A small sledge, like a 3 lb'er, on a box end wrench. Once they break free they're easy. Edit 2 - and there's a lot of room to swing under there. Set it up, aim carefully, nail it with the hammer. It will probably move. Edit - actually it might have been my garage. I don't think I'd carry a 3 lb sledge in to a wrecking yard. Too heavy.

Should have posted a picture of that too. There's also a switch on some cars. Use a jumper wire to extend the circuit to ground. Use a test light to make sure you're not shorting the circuit with no protection. It might not like very low resistance.

Put a proper sized wrench on one of the nuts and a screwdriver or other thin rod through the u-joint yoke. Position them so that you can wrap a hand or hands around both at the same time. Squeeze really hard. Use a large pair of pliers if you can't squeeze hard enough. Make sure that you're turning the nuts the correct way. Easy to get mixed up under there. They do tend to be tight and difficult to remove.

If you're going to remove the crankshaft you could just wait until that's out then unbolt it.

That's not right. Somewhere out there is or was the thread where RTz described developing the improved mount for the long nose R200, because he kept breaking his stock mount on a small block chevy transplanted Z. Can't find that one, all of the old links are broken with the site changes, but here's a similar one. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50209-ron-tyler-style-front-diff-mount/

Your local Nissan dealer could probably tell you if it's a G or E or H or C. Even though the letter, as you're finding here in your thread, won't help you much.

In one of the threads on this site we went through the years of the 71X transmissions. Only the later year 71C's got wider gears. But they all had larger countershaft bearings.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

The transmission rebuild industry seems to have gotten some bad information many years ago and it persists. The 280ZX never had a 71C for example, and the 5 speed is a FS5W71B, not 71A. These errors are found on many rebuild parts suppliers' sites. Like any other project, the best you'll do is to get close, then have to take measurements and check that what you're doing will work. You're not going to find the final answer out here on the internet. Good luck. Edit - and Xnke is very very often right in what he writes. He doesn't seem to visit the site much anymore but he generally steers people the right way and has done a lot of work on these Z's. If he says the G is the same length as the B then it probably is. Use the Service Manuals to determine what's a G or an H. They label them in the MT Chapters.

No, it fits better. Yes, it is just as strong. No, it's the same size and length.

Actually, Xnke implies that the 71G is the same length as the 71B in this thread, so the same propeller shaft can be used. It's never been clear what, exactly, the last letter signifies.

2WD generally has "normal" gear ratios. There's a thread out there somewhere where we went in to great detail about all of the possible 71_ differences. I think the G's might have a shorter tail shaft. A measurement might tell you if you have the G in front of you. This is from the 1995 FSM.

Good stuff here...but...Nissan changed to a different system in 1978. And it had a flaw. It uses the alternator power and an oil pressure switch to run the pump, but the flaw is that if the oil pressure switch is disconnected the pump will run when the key is on. Check that. And read the Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM it shows and describes everything.

I have one but I'm not going to be around until next week. Shoot me a message, and a reminder.

The front bearings are tapered roller bearings. They should have no play at all and actually have a little bit of preload. You can reset tapered bearings if they're not too worn. When the front bearings get loose the Z's tend to wander, follow road ruts, and have loose feeling steering. The rear bearings are ball bearings. Wear on those is usually determined by how "grindy" they feel when rotating. Of course, the Axle chapters in the FSM have the official factory methods for determining if replacement is needed. The front bearings are fairly easy to replace, the rear bearings take some work.

It's hard to say. Because it's not clear that the conversion from wire size to amps is correct. If you assume that the conversion is right, then actually a 20 amp might be right. 0.3 mm is 43% of .69. 43% of 50 amps is 22 amps. Or, 60% of the green link, 0.3/0.5, gives 24 amps. So, 20 or 25 seems right.

Forgot to say that if you had the incorrect fusible link because of that bad information and replaced the link with a fuse of the same amp rating, then you'll be in the same situation. You haven't really improved anything. I see three 50A fuses in your picture. Those are way too high. Compare the fusible link wire sizes in the FSM and you'll see that the Brown links can't be 50 amp, if the Green links are 40 amp. Brown is smaller than Green. Here's the info from the 1978 FSM that I'm talking about and the other info about "red" links. That were never used. I don't know how it got this way but Nissan's FSM's were the same for many years, showing Brown as the smallest link, and never showing a Red one. This topic was one of my first big discussions on a Z forum. Never did get a good answer. The atlanticz page even shows wire size, that doesn't match the FSM's. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html