NewZed

If you have the 3.36 ratio R180 in your 240Z you'll want a low 1st gear. You should determine your rear diff ratio, or plan to swap a diff in, to get the full benefits. The wrong combination can be difficult to live with. The 240Z 4 speeds have a very low 1st gear. That might be why the turbo FS5R90A 5 speed was recommended. It has a low 1st gear also. Put a list of ratios together, and parts needed to do the swap. The turbo 5 speed will take more parts and effort, but if you have a 3.36 might be the way to go.

Could you increase toe (more toe-out) at the track so that you get maximum traction at full squat? Go from toe-out to neutral on launch. Just a thought. Stiffer springs reduce squat which would reduce weight transfer, and traction, I'd guess.

Browse through the MT chapters. There's a table at the end of the chapter that tells which engine was paired with which transmission. The gear ratios are shown also. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

The ZX's came with two different 5 speeds. But they also came with different parts to use them in the ZX. If you want a simple 5 speed swap for a 240Z, the 71B 5 speed from any 1977 - 1983 Z or ZX will swap easily and fairly directly. The gear ratios are different though, between early (77-80) and late (80-83) so that should be considered relative to diff ratio.

Nobody said that there were two different kinds of ZX T5. The T5 will go in with some extra effort. Small to some people, not so small to to others. For you, maybe the pond.

You're not grokking. Only the 90A is the T5. And it's not a direct swap.

Replace "t5" with "71B" and most of what you wrote would fit. The T5 (FS5R90A) is a completely different transmission than the FS5W71B that typically came in the 1970(1?) - 1983 Z cars. You're way off. Don't buy it unless you're ready to spend more money to make it work.

He's a vendor here, with a web site. He typically responds to questions. http://forums.hybridz.org/user/50800-zcardepotcom/ https://zcardepot.com/

There are some threads out there, maybe even in the FAQ section. Browse there. John Coffey put a good list together, if I remember, listing mods in order of impact. Bigger exhaust was high on the list, headers was low. The stock manifolds apparently flow pretty well. Simple port work on the heads is very high on many people's list. The hard pipe and filter are probably a waste of money and effort. COP won't increase power at all. E fans...not power-related. Your list is the typical general simple blingy performance stuff that parts suppliers use to get people to buy stuff. No offense. There is a good solid experience-based list out there somewhere. I'll post it if I find it. Here's the FAQ link to get you started. Try "L-series" under Powertrain - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/38-faqs/

The one a few pictures down on this page? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

You haven't said much about how long you've had it, what condition it was in when you got it, and how you drive it, Or how well tuned the EFI system is. Could be fuel-fouling. Other things, like a clogged PCV system can also lead to high oil burning. Need details to make good guesses. I had an old head with worn valve seals that would burn a lot of oil if I used it hard, but not much if I just cruised around. It ran great though, just tended to get a lumpy idle if it wasn't abused

Engine Tuneup chapter.

The procedure is described in the Nissan Factory Service Manual. It's the difference between cylinders that matters most (that's also mentioned in almost every single compression check thread). Actual numbers will vary with the gauge and adapters used. Bad valve seals will also cause high oil consumption. Worn oil scraper rings won't show up on a cylinder pressure check. They work in the opposite direction.

http://3mauto.com/products/adhesives-sealants#mdTP9jDZGLg5FMrA.97

What's a fuel block off plate?

Several people have reported problems with the quality of the 930 CV's. There are a variety of sources for them, some not so good. You might browse through SUNNYZ's and RebekahsZ's past efforts. Both are drag racers who've been through the process. Here's where SUNNYZ ended up but he has other threads about breaking stuff - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109324-ford-88-irs-conversion/ Her's one where RebekahsZ describes twisting a driveshaft - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116475-should-i-be-worried-about-my-axleshalfshafts/

Here it is - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124155-cv-kit-for-sti-r180/

There was a thread a short while ago where we made fun of the absurdity of the 1000 HP claim on their web site. The claim disappeared soon after, like somebody from there saw the thread. Sounds like the guy you talked to didn't get the message. I took a quick look and couldn't find it but it's out there. I'll post a link if I do. Here's their web page. No 1000 HP claims there, just "big power". http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun

Do you mean "custom" when you say "proprietary"? Basically, a one-off, but common design, with a larger inner hole in the inner race for the larger shaft? Maybe smaller balls to allow material for the race strength? Nice work.

Who is "we", and where is "the rock"?

It's a 1976 problem.

It's not the alternator itself it's the wire used as the S (sense) wire. The atlanticz scheme connects the relay wire to constant power. The zcreations scheme changes the way the relay gets its power too but doesn't leave it on all the time. When I tried it the light didn't work anymore. Both schemes will get the alternator working though. Just beware of the relay and what it does. If it works the way you like it, use it. It's described in the Meters and Gauges section of the Body Electrical chapter. Has its own complete writeup.

Here you go. This wayback machine site is pretty crazy - https://web.archive.org/web/20160307132855if_/http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html On a 76 you'll probably have a problem with the brake check warning lamp relay staying on and draining your battery. You can just disconnect while you figure out a way to get it power only when the engine is running. It's under the passenger seat. You'll hear it click when you reconnect the battery.

The circuit for the gauge grounds through the "thermal transmitter" threads. No ground might mean no reading. Put meter probes on the transmitter body and the engine block and make sure you have continuity. Teflon tape and/or thread sealer might disrupt that ground circuit. The circuit is shown on page EL-83 (kind of a goofy diagram). It's the Y wire. Upper right is the transmitter. There's also a voltage regulator that's part of the gauge.

I thought the C and the W indicated the type of synchros. FS5C___ is servo/Porsche style in steel, and FS5W___ is Warner in brass. Some inter-info - http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Synchros&style=m