motomanmike

Interesting that is confusing!! I went off what came out of it when I drained it. Searching here after draining most all the post i found stated they ran ATF

Borg and Warner T5 that came in the turbo 81-83 280zx were supposed to have ATF ran in them not gear oil. He is noticing a difference is shift quality now that he's figured it out i suppose.

I imagine MS using the NA distributor was getting a VR input, the 83 turbo distributor is an opto in typcially. Also, did you change the oil pump drive gear along with it when you switched distributors?

That car is very nice! Great build!

If you are running a wideband and keep it safe up top like you have started with you are heading in the right direction. You might benefit from spending the coin on the registered version of tunerstudio and utilizing to ve analyze live to get it closer to a manageable level of driveability. Then you can manually tweak it from there. You made anything in boost pig pig pig rich it seems and dropped timing very abruptly. I bet the wideband blinks if you have an external gauge. Glad its running. I run fixed timing with my car, 20 degrees across the board. Its not the most you can get out of the tune but it was very easy to tune it that way and isn't a slouch by any means, this car rips. Using fixed timing simplifies the tuning initially because you don't have that variable messing with your tune, you can focus on the VE tables. The whole area you have above 200 is safe but way too high, you can highlight it and scale it back little by little until she will take boost and not fall flat on her face, keep the AFR in the 11's and lean little by little from there. I imagine the combination of fuel dumping and timing being pulled feels just like the boost cut feature, or hard rev limit does if you hit it. Good luck

The distributor he's using is optical.

Did you do a datalog of the dyno session?

+++ I'm pretty sure there are guys that do everything you've mentioned here with an MS1 on an L28ET but i might be overlooking something. You can surely do every bit of it with an MS2. MS3 is just vanity if that really is all you want to do and IMO kind of a waste. The benefit of sequential isn't a make or break thing with the power you want but it does change the ecu if you want to eventually go sequential.

Be certain it isn't your battery causing you problems first. Reading this you state that the battery is from 2009 when you originally did the swap of the alternator. That means the battery potentially is well over 5 years old dependent upon how long it sat on the shelf before you purchased it. Also, why not jump the "SENSE" terminal on that alternator right to the battery stud instead of letting it travel through 30 year old wiring? Unless you want the benefits of a remote sense terminal (long discussion but has benefits). Also, whats your voltage at your battery compared to your voltage at your "IGN" terminal, I've seen issues where the key tumbler cut the 12v to the IGN terminal and caused intermittent issues? You have 1 of 2 things causing you problems. A bad battery. Or bad wiring,

I've always run cooper tires on my truck. Never will buy anything else for it.

I don't recall the user but I know of a story where a guy running the cosmo coilovers bounced the car off the road (crashing it) because of them being so tight and driving on the street. Call it what you want, lack of driver anticipation or knowing his setup well enough but it happened either way on his street Z. They are stiff.

No doubt it all adds up quick.

I like my ACT. Its Summit Racing Part Number: ACL-NX2-HDSS. Holds the power and anything I throw at it for now. I would seriously research that flywheel and if you can run a 240mm clutch with it I'd go that route. I'm not sure how much you gain surface area wise but if you have a little to gain why not right?

SMH Lee I want first right of refusal on your old ones if you do switch! Serious as a heart attack!

Getting it to turn is key, that breaks alot of the friction you would fight hammering it. My easiest method has been a pneumatic hammer. I know everyone doesn't have one but if you do its well worth using it or borrowing one if you can. I bought some longer punch shaped bits for it and I cut the threaded end of the spindle pin off (after getting it to turn first) with a cutting wheel, clean flat, then drill a small pilot hole slightly in to the cut end of the spindle pin to give the bit on the hammer a good center point in the spindle pin that won't bounce out of center. Then just chatter away. My first set I did the hard way with a punch and a hammer and a propane turbo torch. I thought I would not be able to move my arm for a week it was so sore the next day. Good luck, you'll get it.

Get familiar with the shortcut keys on your laptop for tuning. Q and W will be your best friend.

Lee take his advice, that car is far too nice for anything but a set of factory nissan covers. I know I know, not cheapy but hey, your car isn't built of anything cheapy

I second the comments on the weld in plates. I did my T3 plates yesterday in the front and spent the majority of my time measuring and double checking placement. Its one of those things that will cause you to have kind of a snowball effect for adjustment if its not true to eachother, the original angle and placement on the car and level. They are great quality parts and with the top hat bearing system they sell with the ground control kits its far more adjustment than i'll ever need for camber. I've seen the EMI style plates installed and raised an eyebrow at it only using 2 bolts to mount but its a total non issue. A good friend has a set of the EMI style on his car with ground control. Its squeeky sometimes but, its seen a few track days at summit point and never had anything move or come out of alignment. I did the T3 plates because i like the upper hat system a little more.

I feel terrible for you on this. That was a flux core, probably 110. I'm in the process of doing my plates not and stumbled across this thread. Any progress on it?

Nice

A wideband will always help you more than not having a wideband. Running the setup you are it would probably be your best friend at the moment. Good luck

With your military background you might be able to get a ccw permit in MD fairly easily. Personal safety and transporting money are reasons they will grant them. There's an application process through the MSP. Hardest thing to find anywhere here really is good rounds, and it isn't getting any better or cheaper. As far as DEM or REP you guys are outnumbered over there on the western shore. The little red blob of MD is down here