steve260z

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104837-connecting-rods-backwards/

I assume you have linkage but have you decided to use the fuel return line or not? If so do you have the correct "T" or dead head fuel line connector unit? What psi is an RX 7 pump and or what regulator are you going to use. Weber's are suggested to not be run with a regulator but seems people have hooked them up many different ways. Are you aware of the current chokes and jets on your new Webers? I assume they are 40s,,.... steve

How about this one: http://image.musclemustangfastfords.com/f/36503197/mmfp-1204-15+2005-ford-mustang-gt+jpc-racing-intake-manifold-top.jpg

I'd put NGK plugs in there.

Isn't the n47 open chamber? Much better off running the P90 at 10-1.

MSA has them. Like 5 bucks. I also have some laying around. ss

Don't look rich to me. The white part should have light brown specks on there. Running rich usually has carbon all over.

Good. Its not going to be flush with the spring housing.

Take it to a shop and they'll clean it for like 30 bucks.

Just curious.. Whats the going rate for them now?

Had a bad electrical connection going to the distributor. All Good now.

Got the electronic issue figured out. The Crane Engine Control Module had an iffy connection running to the distributor. I drove the car to the gas station and blasted around the neighborhood. Geez....What a ton of torque!!! Totally flat torque curve from 1200 rpm to 5K. Didn't go any higher at this point. Need to continue breaking the motor in. Actually pulls like a muscle car. Awesome!!!!! Video attached. I'll apologize now for the crappy sideways video. I rarely use my I Phone for video. You can tell.. I put another up once the motor has a few more miles on it. Wow...2 1/2 years on this deal. ss IMG_0382.wmv

Yes, the timing light shuts down with the car. No sputtering. Just off.

I got it going at 11:30pm on New Years Eve!!! Plenty loud. No big deal, fireworks rattling the neighborhood anyway. I'll get a video once I get my problem figured out.. See here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110692-stroker-start-up-problems/

Finished my stroker project and started up on New Years Eve. (What's a little more loud noise huh!!!) Thread located here in member projects: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103487-san-antonio-31l-z/ I got the car running for 20 minutes for break in that night but having problems. I can get it started but runs for about 30 seconds and abruptly shuts down. Its not a fuel problem. Float bowls running to SUs have gas. I checked. It just plain shuts down. I can start it back up but same thing happens. I can't tune the timing in 30 seconds. I shoot the timing gun while the car is running at about 1,500 rpms and its showing around 22 degrees. Plugs are not fouled and battery is charged. I'm thinking the coil or something else electrical but just wanted to bounce it off you guys. Any ideas? Thanks steve

All right. Tomorrow is the Day! What better day than New Years Day??

Thanks.

Can anyone help with the wheels? Thanks, Steve

Its been a while. The cold weather is back and I'm back in the garage. Motor is in and I'm bolting everything back together. Installed the "red" Holley fuel pump and fuel regulator. Start up day (cross my fingers day) should be right around new years. Can't wait.....

Z Store has washers. Hard to tell from pic, but like Tony said, the Cannon flange is probably thinner than the stock manifold. I have the same headers and thickness is very close to the N36 factory manifold. SS

Is there water in the oil?

Yeah, current plan is sticking with the SU's. I'd like to get them working well with the stroker. Its so humid here, as you know I'm thinking triples will require alot of work. We'll see...

Well, after getting the motor in the car I noticed a problem. The machine shop overlooked a broken off stud used to attach the header/exhaust manifold. Crap...I attempted to remove the stud with extractors but no luck and certainly didn't want to screw it up even worse so out came the motor. Removed the head and took it in for repair. Lesson here: Don't assume the machine shop did it 100% correct. So, motor is back together and thought I'd post a picture of the correct cam timing. Notice the "dash" and the "v" are centered within each other and the motor is on TDC. (My scribe on the damper is slightly off but noted..)

Oh, I was just curious. I went with the F54. The N42 is said to have a higher nickel content verses the siamesed cylinders of the F54. Different people have different opinions on which block is best for the stroker. I bought what was convenient at the time. Nice having a Z junkyard handy!

"Enjoy the ride"....I'm doing my first build as well. Link below in the member projects. Have you located the block yet? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103487-san-antonio-31l-z/