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Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting clean fuel from it - New fuel lines installed - New fuel pump and filter installed - New spark plugs - Distributor checked - AFM (Air Flow Meter) replaced - Fuel rail replaced - Air regulator valve attached (it was missing when I purchased the car!) The fuel pressure was checked and the mechanic said it was good. So, my question is, what do I check next to see what is causing the car to stutter once it warms up? What other information do you need from me? On a second note, when the car stuttered and stalled the first time I was driving it (a day out of the shop), I turned on my hazards. This caused my turn signals, hazards, and dash lights to all stop working. To clarify, my turn signals do not work at all. This means that they do not blink outside of the car, nor do the lights turn on inside on the dash. Neither do the hazards. On top of this, none of the lights on the dash come on when the lights are turned on and any electronic gauges (like the voltage meter) do not work any longer. The mechanical gauges (like the speedometer and heat gauge) work fine. The brake light for the emergency brake works. And a red light next to the voltage/charging meter briefly flashes when I start the car. All external lights work (headlights, tail lights, brake lights), so this is not a dead bulb issue. Since all dash lights stopped working, I am assuming this is not a flasher unit issue. I've also checked fuses and fusible links and they all look good. Where do I go from here? Thanks in advance for any help.
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- electrical
- 280z
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Hey Guys, I have an 84 maxima, and I am looking for an L28et to swap into it. The price I am willing to pay really depends on mileage and condition. I am looking for a full engine, and I would like the air meter and ecu too. I am located in VA, and would consider driving a few states away for a good deal, if it's not with in reasonable driving distance you must be willing to ship the engine. Also, if you have a full 280zx with the turbo engine that you are looking to sell with a known good engine I would consider buying the whole car from you too. As a side note I am also looking to buy first gen 81-84 maxima 5 speed swap parts. Either just the parts or a whole 5 speed gas parts car.
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The wind howls like wolves outside my door, and the cold tonight soaks into my bones as it has so many nights before. But tonight, here I stand gazing upon her lifeless body. She's waited years for me to find her. I admire the beauty that's still quite apparent after so many years of neglect having been laid to rest in a field decades earlier. They had tried to save her, worked hard to preserve her heart and smoothed her skin as she laid motionless. They then they left her, seldom to visit. We'd pulled her from that dusty grave in that field, dragging her body miles in the dead of the night to my workshop. It's difficult to understand why someone would let her rot, though there is a point when you recognize that she's beyond their ability to try any harder and the pain of knowing you cannot see her live is greater than your need to see her beauty. That is not me, I still see her beauty and I know she will move again, she will breathe and life will return; I will restore her youth. Be it brute strength, chemical, or lightning, She will live, I must only find the method... So here's the deal, I dragged a 70' 240Z from a field some time back where she was a project that won the fight, and her owner could not handle the restoration. He had last worked on her 15 years before. Her last date of registration reads 1983, so it's been more that 30 years since she's run. In his restoration, he'd completely rebuilt the engine, and dropped it back in place along with the 4 speed. so it's all stock, but I don't think the engine was ever started as the fuel lines have been still disconnected. They then sanded the body down from it's blue to it's copper to it's original silver, then primered 90% of the outside in grey primer. They took all the lights and trim off and put it in boxes inside, only the headlights, and tail lights remain installed. That's where they either ran out of time, or ran out of money. I looked and it's got clear amber oil, though I would never run that, I did turn the engine with a wrench to make sure it wasn't locked up. She turned nicely, so mechanically I believe the engine is in good shape... This is where the "method" comes in. When you have an Engine that has sat for YEARS (at least 15 as I could tell), What is the SAFEST method for attempting to start it. Of course I can get fuel and spark together, and I will change the oil, but I want to know what is recommended to do prior to trying to breathe life into her again. If I have to rebuild, I will, but as I said it looks great, just dusty. In NM it's dry, 15% humidity at the MOST. so I'm not really worried about a lot of rust internally in the engine mainly I'm worried about old oil varnish or gummed up oil passageways. I can crank her over I'm sure, at least enough to get compression numbers, BUT I've heard horror stories of people trying to start old engines and blowing rods or locking up cylinders so I'm asking for advice on doing it right Though the primer had mostly worn away on her body, and I am going to just replace the hood and left fender due to a pair of dents where it looks like something fell. I'll have to re-sand and pull a lot of the rust out of the metal along with some other bodywork, I'm not too scared of. Mostly I'd like to avoid doing something stupid and messing up the engine if indeed it was rebuilt.
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Hello, So I'm new to HybridZ and somewhat to Z's as well. Got mine back in May of 2014, I've been restoring a 1978 280z and so far I haven't had too many problems. As of now it runs good, sometime it's has problems on a cold start, and it'll idle high but then settles down to around 700-800 rpm. Well anyways right now my issue is with the amount of heat in the cockpit. It gets hot in there, and I feel like it's coming in from the engine bay, but I've also been told it might be coming from the tranny. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this issue and how you solved it? Any information would be helpful. Thank you
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Happy New Year everyone. I'm a complete newbie at diagnosing engine failure and thought I'd see if forum members might be able to help. Our 280Z has been racing in the 24 Hours of Lemons and appears to eat bad made-in-China water pumps. During our last race we replaced failed pumps twice and then found water in the oil. Thinking the head gasket was blown we pulled the head a few weeks after the race and found excessive water/rust in cylinder 1. The engine started and amazingly ran before we pulled the head. The head gasket itself appears to be in good shape; do we have a cracked block? Pictures attached and opinions desired. Thanks in advance. Cylinder #1 as it looked when we pulled the head. Here's the head showing rust just on cylinder #1. Here's cylinder #1 cleaned up and rotated down to check for cracks.
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My daughter blew the motor in her 76 280z this past weekend. Machine Shop wants two grand just for the block work. I need a good 75-78 L28 block I can rebuild. I can pick up in Kansas, Oklahoma, or Arkansas. Car is in Kansas now. Cash money! Call me 479-866-9667 please if you have a long block or a good used motor sitting around. Thanks!
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Hey Guys my names Joel. I've been on the forum for a few months, browsing and reading a lot. Skimming topics. I've barely scratched the surface on what I wish to learn and things I need to learn, but all in all, tons of good info. around here. Cool stuff in the archive I can't wait to apply to my Datsun as things progress. Clearly I'm a bit reserved posting my personal things but I do document nearly everything. One day I might make an interesting thread; one day. For now I just wanted to share with you all a little bit and maybe inspire someone as I've been inspired. This will be a log covering my first engine rebuild ever. You see, I decided when I bought my Datsun to avoid as many setbacks as possible due to outsourcing, that I'd try to do as much as I could by myself or under watch of a pro. Buying a non-running Z made my step easy and 1st priority....building a reliable heart. So from scrap to key-on here we go!!!! Just a lil background. I bought my Z and it came with a L28 ( uninstalled ). Engine on a stand, with some quick pre-lim inspections I realized the motor was seized. "No Biggy" I thought to myself, because before I even bought the car I knew a 3.1L build was in the future and that would be the core. I set out on CL to find a replacement but the running engines were scarce and all seemed to be in norcal. The rest just had a sketchy w/ parts or rebuild w/ no receipts caption. I'll pass on those. Anyway, I ended up finding a local L26 w/ some extras for $140 I later when on to sell some spare parts for it netting me a positive $20. It was advertised as running, which I didn't believe that for a sec. but I figured at that price it was worth a gamble to me. Either way I needed an engine and I was prepared to rebuild an engine regardless of who I bought it from. Ready to get this thing underway and see where I stood, I hauled my newly found L26 down to our shop where my buddies and I wrench on Hondas to start my inspection. Off loaded and ready for teardown. I've read a lot of people suggesting to begin with this book so I ordered one up.
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Best Option for Engine Management on LS Swap
LS7 posted a topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Hi everyone, I am new to the HybridZ community, but I have been a lurker for a while now. I've begun the planning phase of swapping a modified LS7 into my 240Z. I have most of the build planned out, but I am stuck on what the best option is for engine management. I know there has been success with both OEM computers as well as aftermarket systems. I suppose my question revolves around what is needed to successfully integrate an LS motor from an electronics standpoint, and are there any serious limitations on using an OEM Computer/Harness setup? Also, if I missed the relevant threads in my searches, I apologize and hope you all are kind enough to point me in the right direction. Thanks in Advance...- 13 replies
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I am building an engine on the side and looking for an engine to drop in for now. I am open minded for any types of L6 engine weather it be Turbo, Stroker, Carb, EFI, Stock. I want something to drop in a day and start it up. complete swap and running please. PM me what you got and how much you want for it.
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Hello, I have searched the database and could not find any threads that answer my question. I apologize in advance if this has been covered. Is this l28e rebuild kit as far pistons any different than the Factory L28e I have in my 280z? Keeping in mind it states l28e 280zx rebuild kit. I only ask because I'm rebuilding my motor and this kit is in my price range. Also if anyone has any remarks to Clegg engines or any other reasonably priced rebuild kits on the market. I would greatly appreciate your input, good or bad. http://www.cleggengine.com/nissan-2-8l-l28e-280zx-sohc-12v-81-83-complete-engine-kit.html
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Hello hybrid z I have a question regarding the triple weber carb kit that is for L series engines. Well i am planning on getting the carb kit but i'm not sure which one to get. Here is a video of my car specs on the engine are in the description. Not sure what cam but here is what i think it is Grind: 17036. Lift(In/Ex): .495/.495. Duration(In/Ex): 290/290 any thoughts on this.
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I was trying to figure out why my z32 was idling so rough, as if a cylinder wasn't firing. New spark plugs (the ones recommended by Nissan) were installed. No change. I removed one coil pack at a time to see which cylinder may be suspect. Removing all coil packs resulted in rougher idle, EXCEPT when I removed coil pack #2. Thinking I was onto something, I concentrated on that cylinder. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the fuel injection wires and connectors were badly cracked and corroded. I bought some new connectors and attempted to swap out the old connector with the new one. I did so and started the car. It ran smoother than I had ever seen it run, then all of a sudden, white smoke from under the hood. I had partially melted the #2 coilpack. In reviewing my wiring, I had crossed two wires. No worries. I bought a new coil pack and installed it. Now I cannot get the car to turn over. It just chugs, smells like gas, but never sounds like it wants to start. It is getting spark and plenty of fuel. I've swapped out the PTU (series II) with a PTU from a well running 94 Z32. Still no start. Swapped out the CAS with a known good CAS, still no start. Thinking the worst, I found another ECU (same numbers and letters as the one in the problem Z32) and STILL no start. I have the FSM, but I'm not really seeing anything else to try. I would appreciate any input or suggestions as to what the next item or items I should check. Thank you for taking the time to read this.
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Hello fellow z owners i would like to see how much horse power i would be looking ad with an engine of these specs. >l28 >n42 head, ported polished, Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300, kameari big valves >n42 block, ross forged 1mm over high comp pistons, 1mm head gasket >kameari high performance oil pump >later electronic distributer from 280zx >ztherapy su carbs >msa 6-1 headers 2.5" exhaust system Engine will also be about a 10.5:1 compression ratio
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Hello i have a question i have a 240z with an l28 swap that the previous owner didn't do engine work correctly on, any ways when the previous owner put the head on he didn't set the timing correctly and the valves hit the pistons. So when i got the car i pulled the head of and replaced it with a performance head and it runs great, but now thinking back doesn't .75 overbore seem a bit much because .040 is ideal and that is 1mm overbore then that means that a .75 overbore is equal to 19mm which is insane or is the .75 overbore already in mm but even if it is it seems insane. I shouldn't be two worried about it because my car runs great but i was just wondering. Heres a video i made of t a while back. I know it sounds really raspy but since then i put a resonator on it and it sounds way better.