Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

EF Ian · June 17, 2020

Looks great, will be good to see a complete photo of it when its done.

Richard Oben · June 17, 2020

Just wow, I may have said that on this thread before. VERY well done. I guarantee 100% for sure just do not have your level of skill or patience. Looks great. Richard.

trackzpeed · June 18, 2020

Such a comprehensive and stunning build.

toolman · July 4, 2020

Thanks, Guys

After getting the Air Compressor parts, I did a complete overhaul on the FS Curtis D96A compressor pump.

Replaced Intake and Exhaust Valves, new Head Gasket, new Piston Rings and new Con Rod Bearings.

After the Compressor was repaired, The Greddy Rocket Bunny Flares were installed. On Ebay, Z Spec Design had their Rocket Bunny

Kit Installation kit for $90.

These tools were used to install the Flares.

The Cleco Clamps were utilized to hold the Flares in place while drilling.

The Drill drilled the mounting holes into the Flares. Also, it drilled the Body side for the Threaded Nutserts.

Drilling the Flare

Drilling Body for Nutserts.

I added a 11" extensions of 1" square tubing to the Nut Setter( lengthening its arms gave it additional leverage).

Threaded Nut installed.

I recommend all insets be rethreaded. Sometimes the inserts are distorted during installation.

Installed

The Paint and Materials for this car was about $2000(Jobber Cost). Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Poyurethane paint(Basecoat) and CC2000 Clear Coat were used. I also used the 3M TRiZ Sanding system which consists of P1000, 1500 and P3000 Velco Sandpaper was utilized too. This method reduced the polishing times drastically.

Next thing to do: Installing Front and rear Suspension on the car. Happy Fourth of July Holiday to everyone!!

Edited July 7, 2020 by toolman
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280Z-LS3 · July 7, 2020

Love the paint scheme!

DonH · July 8, 2020

this build is unreal

toolman · July 20, 2020

I had planned to assemble the Front and Rear Suspension to the Z but decided to work on the interior parts first.

Door Glass Regulator was cleaned and lubricated.

The Door Glass had a lot of Water Spots from being parked outside.

These Water Spots were removed with #000 Steel Wool and Hand Rubbing Compound.

Rub in a Circular Pattern to remove all the spots.

Looked like Brand New Door Glass.

Before Disassembly and Rebuild.

Tools used to rebuild the Quarter Glass: Plastic Glass Tool. Rubber Hammer. Tire Lube Brush. and 1/8" Nylon Rope.

One area of reassembly was the 1/4 Window Glass Frame. Because of the New Weather Stripping. squeezing the Frame together posed a

problem. This was solved by wrapping a 1/8" Nylon Rope around the frame and 3/8" x 6" Bolt. Twisting the bolt between the rope will cause the rope to get tighter and tighter. This action will squeeze the frame together and allow the installation of the frame screws.

Now, check the corner of the 1/4 frame with the long ends.

Note-A strip of Rubber added to the Frame. This Rubber Strip fills the gap so the Outer Weather Stripping Gasket does not leak. Check the Old OEM weather stripping. It

probably has a similar rubber strip that is not included with the replacement weather stripping.

The Outer !/4 Glass Weather stripping was attached with Contact Cement , Use a Acid brush to apply the Glue. Apply the Contact Cement to Both Sides (gasket and the Frame). Make to allow the glue to dry for 10 to 15 minutes before sticking them together.

Wrap the1/8" Nylon Rope tightly again around the Weather Stripping and then knot it so it holds till the cement dries.

Installation of the Assembled 1/4 Glass on the car usually requires two persons. As the Glass must be pushed both rearward into the body and

inward to attach the mounting screws.

Installation Complete.

The 1/4 Glass Frame was painted with Sem Products Trim Paint Black to match the Race Car Theme.

In this case, the Bumper Guard and Bumper Rubber Strips Holes were going to be welded closed to provide a more Clean Look.

!/8" Steel Plugs were cut and fitted into the holes before welded.

Welded Holes after Grinding

Bumper Parts Poly Urethane Primered.

Single Stage Black Polyurethane Paint was used to paint the Bumper Parts.

Bumper Installed on car

Side View

Center View

Edited July 22, 2020 by toolman
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Nelsonian · July 20, 2020

Nicely done and well documented...

EF Ian · July 21, 2020

Good work. Do you think you would be able to smooth off the holes well enough to have it chromed after and leave it perfect?

Exposed · July 21, 2020

Good job on the paints, great write up on everything as well. Cant wait to see this thing finished!

toolman · July 22, 2020

EF Ian,

Yes, In the Old Days, rechroming bumpers was a common procedure. But now days because of the toxic byproducts and mostly the cost, only limited automotive chroming is done. You can also use a a torch and braze the holes. Then grind it smooth with 24 grit paper. The rechromers will first apply copper plating then chrome plate it. I would have powercoated the bumper but the center section would not fit in my small oven. PowderCoating powder to do this bumper would cost only about $13.

Edited July 23, 2020 by toolman
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toolman · August 2, 2020

My Weather Stripping Kit from Zdepot arrived just in time. It costed about $300 but was high

quality and fitment was good.

kit parts list

The Hatch Weather Stripping was installed with 3M Super Weather Stripping Adhesive. I found

the older yellow version to hold better than the newer Black Version.

Note-Be sure to let the adhesive to dry(5 - 10 minutes) or until "tacky". Then hold both together for

at an hour. I used masking tape and duct tape.

on weather stripping

on body edge then hold together.

When installing New Replacement Door Weather Stripping, if you having trouble closing the door even after

adjustment, you try this tip. I rigged up a 1/8" steel cable connected to the inside seat belt mounting

hole. Put a Turn Buckle in between the mount and cable. The other end was attached to the latch side of the door. A 3/4" x 2" board was utilized inside of the door to prevent damage to door.

The operation is simple-Turn the Turn Buckle to shorten the cable. This will force the door

to squeeze the weather stripping tight. Remember to remove the latch plate on the quarter

panel otherwise maximum force will not be achieved. The weather stripping must be squeezed a lot to compensate

for the"rebound factor".

seat belt mount side

door anchor side of cable-note board inside the door

Another tip- To cut the excessive door weather stripping, a 4 1/2" right angle grinder with a

1/32" cutoff wheel was used because the door weather stripping contains a metal webbing

inside.

cross section of door weather stripping

Another tip: When Powder Coating. I sometimes use a piece of cardboard to hold screw and bolts

while sandblasting.

Next to the parts, their location was written to aid

in assembly.

To hang screws, bolts and washers while baking the powder coat, .030 Stainless Aircraft Safety Wire

is used.

This zig zag type of hanger is utilized to keep parts apart when baking.

Rethreading of all Powder Coated items is necessary as the Powder Coating will add additional

material to them.

Edited August 4, 2020 by toolman
correct text, add pics

idiot280 · August 6, 2020

I'm interested to know how the Precision weatherstripping has worked out for you since these strips are well documented to have issues.

Too much silicone in the rubber makes the adhesive not stick to it
Too thick... Rear hatch and doors don't close flush

toolman · August 7, 2020

idiot280, I don't think the Precision Weatherstripping is made with Silicone in it. But they probably coated their rubber molds with silicone for easy removal of the weather stripping. I always wipe the areas down where the adhesive is going with lacquer thinner before glueing.

The Precision Weatherstripping is well made but is "Fatter" than the original 240z one. So you might have readjust your door and hatch

latches to allow them to close. The rubber will eventually wear in. Or if you can not wait for it to wear in, construct a similar "pull cable" that I made for the doors and put heavy weight on the hatch. But remember to remove the latches so they can compress the rubber more.

. Also, if you still have problems with the weather stripping not sticking, use clamps or similar tools to hold the rubber down. Especially around the corners, the adhesive on the rubber must contact the adhesive on the body. I always check

this by tugging on the rubber after an a hour after application. If rubber loose, glue and clamp down again.

I hope this information helps you.

IMG_1564.MOV

Edited August 20, 2020 by toolman
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toolman · August 23, 2020

"Lost Part"

I somehow lost one of the Hoods Accessory Door Spring Latch. So I was forced to create one using the other one to copy from.

Original, the Copy and Template

It was constructed from sheet metal using pliers and a drill.

Test Fitted then to be Painted to match.

Restoring Damages Masonite and Plastic Interior Panels

cracked Masonite Panel

Fiberflex Rods and Fiberglass Screen Window

Mesh were used for these type of repairs.

Mesh with plastic melted over it created a strong

repair.

One Masonite panel was missing a large section so I glued a piece of .0025" Aluminum Sheet

to fill in the missing area. Fast Drying Epoxy did the job.

Vise grips held the patch in place until the Epoxy cured.

Note- The hole in the panel is for Radio Speakers.

Plastic Interior Panel Repair

Big crack in Rear Plastic Panel

The Crack was aligned then "tack welded" with the Plastic welder. On the other side, Stainless Steel Mesh was covered with FiberFlex plastic rods to provide a study backing. Then, the otherside of the crack was gone over completely with FiberFlex rods too.

Painted with SEM TEXTURE Black paint and prep for painting.

Plastic Interior Panels painted.

Console painted

Closeup of Hand Painted Console Switch Lettering

Edited September 10, 2020 by toolman
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toolman · September 13, 2020

Mounting Rocket Bunny Rear Soiler

The Rocket Bunny Body Kit does not come with any instructions for installation of its components. So the builder has to come up with

his own methods of installation. The rear spoiler is no exception. I decided to mount the spoiler by fabricating Two mount plates that were

installed inside of the spoiler.

Each mount consisted of Two 5mm x .8 x 16mm bolts that were tack welded to

a 1/2" x 3" long 16 gauge sheet metal plate. The mounts were mounted on the both side edges of the hatch. The existing hatch edge was

1/8" thick already and strong enough to hold the spoiler on.

Test fitting the mounts

Create a cardboard template of mount to make sure the mount would fit inside of the spoiler.

I determined that a 1" hole drilled in the bottom of the spoiler would sufficient for installation of the mount and not be "too large".

The bolt holes were also drilled at this time using the template.

Using a long nose plier and a little manipulation, the mounts were installed in the spoiler.

Fibeglass resin and cloth were used to hold the mounts to the inside of the spoiler. Installing the two mounting nuts would hold the mounts in place until the fiberglass cured.

Note-Inner Single Bolt Spoiler Mount

Two Black Plastic 1" caps from Lowes were a perfect fit to seal the holes. I also added two 5mm bolts closed to the middle of the spoiler for

added support.

Restoring the Rear Tail Light Assemblies

A picture of the "Before" restoration of the Tail Light Assemblies.

Note: dull finish, dents and chips.

The Lens was polished with buffing wheel and chips were filled in with epoxy.

Krylon "Lookinh Glass" spray paint was utilized to provide the "Chrome Like" twin parallel bars of the lens.

To give the Tail Light Assemblies additional "POP", Polyurethane Clear was sprayed over the lens.

Tail Light Assemblies installed.

Spoiler Installed.

Edited September 13, 2020 by toolman
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toolman · October 12, 2020

Sorry for not posting for awhile, I had some home repairs to do before the end of Summer.

Undercarriage Work:

Disassembled and cleaned then lubed and reassembled the steering components.

Disassembly, inspection and relubed

All parts were painted with Black Single Stage Urethane paint

The Gas Pedal Bracket was left as it depending on LS Electronic Pedal Assembly.

Brake, Vent and Fuel Lines

All Lines were wire brushed, primed and paint with Single Stage Silver Paint.

One Part of the Drivetrain Tunnel was the Hand Brake Mechanism which was missing its Dust Cover Rubber Cap. I found a !" chair leg

plastic cap from the local hardware store that fit perfectly to seal the Hand Brake Swivel Ball grease in.

Cap with hole cut on top

Front Disc Brakes Modifications

My WILWOOD 300mm Rotors and Four Piston Calipers arrived in time for installation.

From Techno Toy for about $1200

comes with braided stainless steel lines.

I replaced the Master Cylinder Assembly with another 7/8" one from ZDEPOT. OEM master cylinder assemblies were only available for about $300 as compared to ZDEPOT for $100. But the output brake lines must be bend to fit for ZDEPOT one.

ZDEPOT OEM Master Cylinder

Note- Difference in Outlet Fittings in both assemblies

Also Note-Differences in Reservoir positions

New Brake, Vent and Fuel Clamps were fabricated for the drivetrain tunnel section.

Next thing to work on will be the Fuel Tank modified for In-Tank Electric Fuel Pump.

Edited October 28, 2020 by toolman
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DonH · October 15, 2020

Nice! I did the Tanks Inc. PA-4 for my LS swap. Love it! Nice and quiet!

toolman · November 1, 2020

I was fortunate to come across a Great Deal. I sold my "old" sandblast cabinet for $350 then upgraded to Bigger One for only $150 more.

This cabinet is twice as large and has top and side access doors. Plus it also came with a 4 foot high dust vacuum.

Fuel Tank Modifications:

My Fuel Tank was really rusty inside and had a lot of large dents on its bottom.

Note-Remember the Pads positions.

After Blasting, the dents were more visible.

The only way to remove most of the large dents was to cut open the top of the tank and push the dents out. This method would however allow for sand blasting of the inside of the tank.

After cutting the tank, a patch was created to repair this area.

Visegrips and Cleco Pins hold patch.

getting ready to weld

All the mig welds were brazed over to further prevent tank leaks.

after Brazing.

The welds were checked by applying 2 PSI of Air while spraying a Soapy Water.

Leaks are easily found with this method.

KBS TanK Sealer Kit is an additional step to further prevent tank leakage and provide corrosion protection.' This sealer covers the entire interior of the fuel tank. It is also one of the few tank sealers that is not effected by ethanol fuel.

Cost about $80 from local industrial hardware store.