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Found 38 results

  1. Megasquirt grounding

    I've been putting in alot of time in the garage trying to tuck and shave my bay along with installing megasquirt. My only question about the whole thing is, how am I to ground the million black wires? I've read NOT to ground them all in the same spot. I've also read NOT to solder them into a bigger wire and put it in a single location. But I HAVE heard that I should ground everything to my block. I'm currently wiring the injectors. Where do I ground this bundle of 6 black wires? Tha k you very much for your response. Sorry if this is in the wrong place or already posted. Still trying to figure out forums.
  2. Won't stay running

    Hey guys, I'm having idle issues where I can't keep the car running and it never seems to want to catch. Either it runs too rich and dies or runs too lean and runs very badly. I have to keep steady pressure on the throttle to keep it from dying. Clearly that means that I need more air, so I would lower my VE values and it wouldn't seem to help any. The car ran better and would actually idle around 600rpm with all the idle valves on the plenum, but none of them were wired up. I've since took them all out, as well as the egr valve, and blocked all the holes off. I have my tune and a few datalogs. The datalog labeled IDLE(not idle1 or idle2) is when the car had the idle valves on the car but not wired up to anything. The others are without the idle valves. My injector PW seems very jumpy as well as the dead time. I have them grounded directly to the MS. They are low z injectors so I chose to limit the current in TunerStudios instead of using drop resistors. I made sure no ground wire or sensor wire was in contact with any noise issues(dizzy, spark plug wires, coil). I messed with the ASE and WUE to try and stabalize my afr's and keep the damn thing running, but I've had no luck with it so far. I have an MS2/Extra v3.57 Firmware 3.3.0 straight from DIY. CurrentTune1.zip idle.zip idle1.zip idle3.zip
  3. Timing control problems

    Hey guys. I guess I'll consider this a follow up thread from my last one here(http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124831-megasquirt-ignition-and-timing-problems/). The car cranks and runs. I don't think my MS is controlling the timing but it's producing the spark at the least. I've gone through the tests to check for my commanded timing and my actual timing with no luck. The timing on the crank is really sporadic at idle and the timing marks disappear and reappear when I increase the RPM. It seems wherever I adjust my dizzy manually, is where it stays at during idle. The stock dizzy on 85T vg's is electronically controlled. Could my stock ECU be interrupting the MS's signal? (I haven't gotten around to going completely standalone YET, but I'm taking this one step at a time). I've got the car running which is a big step, but I've got no timing control, either in "fixed advance" or "use table". I burn and cycle the ecu whenever I'm prompted to. I've hit a wall with this. Hardware Pin 36 connected to the ?signal wire? on the stock power transistor. (I've tried all the other wires going to the coil, and this one is the only one that seems to work. It's the G/B wire) Pin 24 is connected to the CAS correctly because I am getting an RPM reading on the dash and in Tuner Studios. (It's also really sporadic) I have the B&G prebuilt MS2 v3.57 with 3.3.0 firmware from DIY Stock dizzy and ignition coil + power transistor DIY Nissan Optical trigger wheel Here is a datalog while idling and my current tune. I've got the tooth/composite/trigger logs but they are .csv files so they aren't of much use. I still haven't really figured out how to troubleshoot with the datalogs, maybe one day. Thanks zx2.zip CurrentTune.zip
  4. Hello, Can anyone smarter than me take a look at this tune and tell me what is wrong with it for my build. I have a pretty much stock 82 l28et stock injectors DIY wiring harness i put together. iac sensor 240sx 65mm throttle body and tps DIY trigger wheel single coil lc2 wideband (not wired to ms2) walbro 255 lph inline fuel pump no other sensors are connected to the MS2 Ive been messing around with some other peoples tunes and came up with this. This started the previously warm car yesterday and i set my timing on the car with this project. its set to around 19 btdc because it was running so rough. The car was running very rich and was backfiring with every change in throttle. i assume the ignition settings might be wrong and the fuel map is too rich. ive scaled down the fuel map and it didnt seem to change much at all. could their possibly be other more hidden settings that i also have to change. Today i tried to start it and it just kept flooding itself no matter what spark settings i change or if i scale down the fuel map. Im new to this type of stuff so any help is apreciated. ive been researching so much and tried so many things but nothing is working. thankyou.
  5. Megasquirt help

    Hey guys, I just joined HybridZ and this is my first post! I also just joined the Datsun club by buying a 280z not too long ago. It is a 77' 280z, L28 all that good stuff I guess, but it's turbo converted... or rather almost. So, I bought and the turbo conversion is almost complete according to him it just needs tuning, wiring, & a finished down pipe. I have no idea where to begin, I have a picture of the megasquirt 2 EMS, the wideband, & the harness I assume. I also have a ton of wires underneath the the steering wheel which he said was useless and that I should make a new one. I am new to things like megasquirt and tuning so I'm not too sure where I should begin at all, if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks.
  6. Need a map to get it running

    Hello. Im fairly new to the forum but i need help with my megasquirt. I restored and engine swapped my 260z and its finally time to get her running. I bought and assembled my megasquirt. I also made my own wiring harness with DIY's harness. Im almost positive i havnt made any mistakes along the way however the actual tuning part of the ms2 boggles my mind and i have no idea what im doing. I need a map that i can get my car running on for now. It is a stock block with a fresh rebuild, p90 head,stock distributor with DIY' trigger wheel. stock turbo injectors, stock turbo and psi, 240sx throttle body and tps, walbro 255lph inline fuel pump, i have bypassed the fuel pressure regulator for now as it wasnt allowing fuel though. I have messed arounf with some other maps i found on the forum but none of them are perfect. I want to say my firmware is the latest for ms2 extra. i belive i have the pcb 3.0. i will atatch the tune i found and am looking thru. Anything helps thankyou. CurrentTune.zip
  7. Now shipping: MS3 Pro Ultimate

    Order the MS3 Pro Ultimate here The MS3Pro Ultimate is a new ECU that pushes the MS3Pro design as far as it will go, with more inputs and outputs and the features customers with big horsepower engines have demanded. Here's a short list of what we added to the hardware: - Peak and hold drivers (software selectable 4/1 or 8/2) - 5 more analog inputs - Onboard 4 bar MAP and barometric pressure sensor connectors - 2 more VR conditioners - for Coyote cam sensors, vehicle speed sensors, and more - 7 more switched inputs - 4 more on/off or PWM outputs - Status indicator lights And there's a new firmware upgrade out to support the MS3Pro Ultimate which you can also load to any current MS3Pro. The new firmware brings several new features: - CO2 dome pressure boost control - Four wheel traction control - More records in SD card data logs This new version of the MS3Pro sells for $1499 with an 8' flying lead harness. For those who don't need all the extra I/O, we still have the entry leave MS3Pro available too.
  8. MS2 final testing problems

    I have just finished assembling my MS2 for my 82 l28et. The megamanual explains how to do the final testing. and none of the three ms2 LED's light up like it says they should. i am almost positive i didnt make any mistake assembing the last section. on tunerstudio i currently get all gauges reading from operating the stimulator. the stim has fuel pump light on and i1, i2 flickering. anyone have any ideas. i want to get this swap done !! thanks
  9. Hello i am new to this forum but i hope to get some opinions. I have fully restored my 260z and it is mostly stock, i recently bought and rebuilt a l28et. now that the engine is done i am moving to the wiring and i come to realise that i do not have the proper wiring harness. The guy i got the engine from gave me everything he had. by the looks of it i have a 82 l28 ecu and harness, a later 70's wiring harness slightly cut up, and the correct 82 l28et ecu. Should i bother with the stock ECCS and make a harness or should i buy a megasquirt. The megasquirt is tempting but im one to save a dollar. the megasquirt seems very complicated for my liking. if anyone has an 82 l28et harness i need it. My hope is to finish this swap before april. thankyou
  10. l28et vems standalone

    Hello everyone my name is luke and i have a 74 Datsun 260z l28et project that I'm going to be documenting my progress on . I swapped an 81 l28et into it and am currently doing a Vems v3.7 install. I want to make a thorough write up to make standalone install on these motors (or in general) easy to understand. In my setup my motor is mostly stock except for the Vems, a straight exhaust and the common deletes (egr,ac, etc...) In this write up I will cover the basic aspects of engine management. Crank/cam sensors, injectors, ignition, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and O2/egt sensor CRANK SENSOR- for my crank sensor I will experiment with using the stock 81 l28et toothed CAS wheel (90 tooth) with a retrofit VR sensor as this is what my Vems is configured for. the setup picks up a signal on cranking but i have not yet ran the car on it. INJECTORS- the injectors I am using are the stock l28et injectors. These are low impedance (ohm) and there are 2 ways to drive these injectors. This is general and applies to most if not all ECU's from MS to Vems to Electromotive. The first and more preferred way to drive low z injectors is PWM (pulse width modulation) this modulates current during injector hold (open) time to prevent injectors from overheating (with this method the you don't use inline resistors). The second method which I am doing is to run inline resistors on every injector and drive them as you would normal high z injectors. L28et injectors are approximately 2.2-2.3 ohms and I will be running a 50w 6ohm heatsink resistor inline on each injector. I will be putting the resistors on the ground(computer) side of the injectors . They will be mounted in the car near the ECU. Injectors are wired independently for sequential injection. TPS- in my setup I use a GM TPS 5v 3 wire. most TPS that are continuous not switch type will work. The stock one i believe is a 3 position switch. this will not work. I made 2 small brackets to mount it to the l28et throttle body. IAT- for my intake air temperature sensor I also used a GM IAT. It may be tricky to find a good spot to mount it keep in mind it has to be in the manifold area (after the turbo). MAP- for my manifold air pressure sensor I simply used the supplied Vems internal sensor. My pre assembled Vems unit has an internal 3-bar MAP sensor. There is a vacuum hose output on the ECU that is ran to a port on the intake manifold. Very convenient and simple. IGNITION- for my ignition setup I will be using a single coil ran through the stock dizzy. I will experiment with using the internal Vems igniter and using the stock l28et coil/igniter. Coil has +batt on one side and the other ground side goes right in the computer (coil-0) this is the simplest setup. In the future I plan on goin coil on plug or do a 3 coil setup. If you are doing a coil on plug setup you have to remember it's going to be waste spark Unless you have a cam position sensor (which simply indexes whether the motor is on exhaust or compression stroke). CTS- I have not decided on what coolant temp sensor I'm going to use Yet. The stock one is a 1 wire and I believe is useless. I believe GM sensors have the same size/thread. I will experiment with CTS and let you guys know what fits into my thermostat housing. O2 - For the oxygen sensor I will remove the old 1 wire sensor which is also useless and use a Bosch Wideband sensor. i believe The particular Bosch o2 is somewhat specific to Vems and I believe can even be used from any Audi/vw 1.8t. Wideband O2 sensors are essential in tuning a car. Vems have built in Wideband controllers so all I will need is the sensor which is under 100$. please correct me if any of my information is wrong. i anticipate to do the first start in about 1-2 weeks. i will continue to keep everyone updated and hopefully post some pictures soon.
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  12. This is really cool, and way overdue for the marketplace. Most racers already ran -6 A/N individuals to Weber DCOE's from a fuel distribution log... Cost is comparable to new Webers, and the hidden TPS Option keeps everything away from prying eyes! http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/twin-throttle-bodies/dcoe-heritage-bodies/heritage-dcoe-twin-body-40-48mm-tdsxx Crap, thinking about this, I should likely have put this in Fuel Systems Sub Forum. Mods move if you like.
  13. Hi guys. I have a 1983 280zx, modified by the guy who sold it to me. Rebuilt engine, T3/T4 turbo, front mount intercooler, blow-off valve, megasquirt… The air filter was located behind the driver side headlight, which is good for protecting it from dust and rocks (and it gets fresh air through holes in the radiator mount for intercooler piping) but it breathes gross hot air when stopped or doing city driving (upwards from 120 degrees Farenheght)). See photo for details. It was supposed to need nothing but megasquirt tuning, but the more I play with it, the more I think there are other issues (I think not all the injectors work well amongst other things). I’m also new to the turbo thing, only having had stock NA engines before. The issue that brings me here today is that I am embarking on a cold air intake build (I plan on building a scoop that goes under the rad and maybe back up in front of it (no more room to go through the rad supports as the weird intercooler has both in and out on the same side, that side), with the filter in an isolated box between the rad and the engine. See upcoming post with air pressure and temperature tests...) and also am looking into isolating my intake piping (see other posts on that, with data too). I don’t want to build things that are useless, so I started taking data before so I can compare before and after. I’ve been measuring and comparing temperatures under various situations and came to the realisation that I might have a problem (not sure, thus the post). If I cruise on the highway at steady speed (say 75mph), I get steady temperature: today at ambient 82 degrees, I got 90 degrees at the air filter, and 120-130 degrees at the air intake temperature (AIT) sensor (I don’t actually know where the guy put that sensor. Any clues?). I’m not certain how good this is, but it does not seems too too bad (still not happy that I’m gaining 65-85 degrees WITH an intercooler under very little load and high air flow. Opinions?). The potential problem occurs as soon as I lift of the gas. If I lift off a little, say to slow down to 60mph(without de-clutching), the temperature climb real quick to 155-175 degrees AIT, while everything else stays the same (air filter temp, RPMs, air flow…). If I completely let go of the gas (without declutching), the AIT skyrockets to 190-215 degrees. In both cases, the temps stay high for a while and only then decrease slowly (unless I give it gas, at which point they go back down quick enough I guess). If I let go of the gas but immediately de-clutch and stay in neutral, the temperature goes up to 150-165, but then comes back down on its own quick enough. I thinking the really high temperature I see when I don’t de-clutch might be a combination of A) slower moving air that gets to take the time to absorb more heat and B ) the fact that, because the engine is working still, there is a significant amount of exhaust that might make the turbo work and thus heat up the air. But how come the intercooler wouldn’t be making up for that? So, is that temp spike normal(ish)? Should I be worried? Any explanations?
  14. The car runs and drives okay. Still haven't gone through much of the fuel tables. Can't seem to get the timing to adjust electronically through the megasquirt. I can set the timing mechanically but I can't get it to advance or regard through the megasquirt. I've adjusted the trigger angle and that doesn't seem to sway it either way. I have an 85 300zx turbo with a completely stock ignition system. MS2/Extra firmware: 3.3.0 I've read all over about controlling spark with distributors and an ignition coil /power transistor, but I can't seem to get it to do what I want. Any advice would be amazing.
  15. MS3 Pro Install

    Here is the last dyno run we did to tune the car. It is a blast to drive. There are 29 pulls on this zip drive. You can just look at the last 3-4 pulls as they are the final tune. 225hp with 255 tq on the dyno. Think I am conservative enough on tune for longevity. Still need to work on decel, and initial tip in. Had multiple issues to deal with at the dyno. Kept losing power to the TPS(was the connection being loose on the spade to fuse panel). Blew coupler off did not know it for first 10 pulls. Pulled the power to 3 injectors by accident while closing the gaps on spark plugs. Had the vacuum lines to the boost controller wrong, hence could not build boost. Thats how it is when you don't finish things you start, or finish things others don't. Have to look over everything. Data Log Zip File.zip
  16. hi! I recently found out my engine has a knock sensor on it, unplugged and unsused. I have a megasquirt II ecu. I was wondering if anyone had managed to hook up the stock sensor to a MSII, or if I'd have to forget about it? thanks! s
  17. TPS reading correct

    Reading at 0 throttle is 220 and at full throttle is 1238. Is that correct? Keep losing signal, have traced it through a spade connector that was loose. Once I have reset the signals is as above readings. Throttle application seems accelerated, as in 1/3 is half.
  18. Hello all. So I recently picked up a new 1976 280Z Non CA. It has a few mods to it. Stage III schneider cam, headers, monza exhaust. Something failed on the EFI and the previous owner cracked open the AFM and tweaked a bit. This is causing the engine to run extremely rich. The coolant temp sensor is dead also. I've decided after seeing many split wires and splicing that it would be best to start new with Megasquirt. I plan on purchasing the MS2 3.57 assembled unit and wiring harness. I know this question strays from the normal. I know the option of going to a 82-83 dizzy. As of right now, I just plan on running MS2 for fuel only. I know there is a trigger input that comes into the ECU like the stock setup. Is this acceptable for the MS2 or can I not use this. My understanding is that the injectors fire on every third pulse. Looking through wiring diagrams I put together this diagram. The 1976 datsun looks like it uses a dual coil setup with a transistor ignition box. Can I still have the megasquirt hooked up with this setup or will it not like it? Any advice would be greatly beneficial.
  19. Black Friday Sale- 10% OFF Everything

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  20. 72 Shell Only

    Really grateful blogs and forums exist for the serious greenhorns like us; Bill and Bill Jr. Going to try and get the project done in time for Jr's 16th birthday/license. Here are the pics: This last photo is my car -- or what I don't want my Coupe to look like, so the building of this 240 by January 29th (birthday) has it's incentives...
  21. The MS3-Pro has run many high powered Toyota 2JZ-GTE builds, including ones that make four figure horsepower numbers. Now, DIYAutoTune.com has made it easier than ever to put an MS3-Pro on your 2JZ-GTE powered car by making a plug and play system for the Mk IV Supra! This can run '93-'98 turbo Supras and '93-'97 naturally aspirated models with a manual transmission, as well as similar year Lexus SC300s. It replaces the factory ECU with no wiring changes required. This new plug and play ECU offers plenty of tuning tricks - rally style antilag, the ability to control boost with the factory sequential twin turbo valves or convert to single twin turbo, an internal 4 bar MAP sensor that reads up to 44 psi of boost with the option to use an external MAP sensor, flex fuel control, water injection control, and more! Click here for ordering information. We've got an introductory price of $1499 through the end of November.
  22. Hello from Atlanta

    Hello folks! I'm the new Sales/ Marketing Manager for DIYAutoTune. Looking forward to interacting with you and I guess i have to start somewhere. I've still got a lot to learn, but I look forward to serving however I can.
  23. MS2 board

    I have been trying to get my 280z running again. I moved and changed jobs so it's been a while but finally getting back into it. I check all my wiring again and everything seems to be right. So I figured that I would check the board to make sure the jumpers were in the right place(I bought the car with the MS2 half ass installed and the wiring was shot). Anyways this is what I found. I am not sure if it will still work or not. It boots and lets me upload msqs to it and it does try to start. Also does anyone have the stock ignition and other setting I need to getting it running? I am using a 83zxt cas(360 slots). I appreciate the help. Also anyone in/near Waco, TX?
  24. So it took me one afternoon to rip out the stock injection and get the car wired up and started on ms, it's taken me almost three months since to get things to where I'm pretty happy (one month delay thanks to the stock T3 blowing to bits). My car: 83 l28et, p90a head, stock block with at least 206k miles. Last time I tested I had low compression on #6 (110 vs. 145 on rest). My compression tester was stolen along with my truck and I haven't replaced it yet. I think I might have blown the ring back into place while letting VEAL tune the upper regions of my ve table whilst doing 3,500-5,000 rpm on the interstate in 3rd for about 20 minutes last week. It's run silky smooth since that session after the lifters quieted down (I was worried that I had done something bad until I learned that was common with hydraulic lifter setups). The non-stock stuff is: 3" K&N filter in the wheel well under the drivers side headlight, 3" piping up to turbo. same-side ebay fmic ebay type-s bov recirculated via a 1 and 3/8 line back into the intake just before the turbo. EGR is deleted and blocked off. I have had the intake and exhaust manifolds mildly ported by Lonewolf Performance. They also welded a 1/2" T3 spacer onto the exhaust manifold and a 38mm tial wastegate flange as well. I am very happy with their work. 60mm 240sx TB and TPS EM USA external wastegate set to between 15 and 18psi depending on the gear. Holset HY35 (used, fair condition) New, bigger downpipe for Holset with first O2 bung located about 1' downstream of the turbo--catback still whatever came on the car cause it's in good shape and I like the sound characteristics Ebay injectors which are supposed to be high impedance custom versions of the Bosch 403 injectors (~550cc) - so far they seem to be the real deal Palnet 14mm fuel rail Walbro 255 GM flex fuel sensor (the newer one) D585 LS truck coils (round w/ heatsink style) A set of Silverado shorty plug wires A Bosch 505 idle valve (3 wire) A homemade tach adapter Innovate MTX-L wideband and gauge Speedhut electronic fuel pressure gauge Some ebay boost gauge retrofitted in place of the stock boost gauge which is semi-accurate GM open element IAT sensor (between IC and TB) (using the CHTS as the coolant sensor for MS) DIYautotune dizzy trigger wheel DIYautotune supplied MS3/MS3X 3.57 with integrated knock sensor circuit DIYautotune MS3 and MS3X harnesses (recommended -- not a single sync problem since the first startup). I think that's most everything that's relevant to the tune. I've found the flex fuel sensor is working pretty good in tandem with MS3 and I'm able to switch to different blend ratios without it throwing the ve map off. My cold start settings are based on testing with approximately a 60% ethanol blend. There's a decent chance that at the colder temperatures they may foul plugs with pump gas. It started on the third try a little while ago with the block at 13 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied with the settings as they are (tomorrow morning at -10 should be interesting). I'll probably dyno it soon. You can see by my upper VE map that the porting work and bigger intake tract has shifted the peak torque region closer to 4,700rpm, if you've got a bone stock setup you might shift the fat area of the ve table a few hundred rpm to the left. Here are the settings I'm using. I hope these are useful for someone, lord knows I've gotten a lot farther a lot faster than I ever could have without the knowledge on this site and others.
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