Brad-ManQ45

Don't want to hijack the thread, but I had the one piece Arizona Gnose shipped to me in a crate via Greyhound for ~$80 - it weighed around 80 lbs (crate was really heavy) and was just under the length limit... I got lucky in that a fellow HybridZ'er around Phoenix happened to work at a place that did a lot of shipping and could fab a crate cheap for me - he even went and picked the GNose up from Dave! I would imagine an air dam would run about the same, unless you would be willing to just put it in a box.... By the way - those wheels are Western Cyclone I's. I have the II's, which have more fins spaced closer together. Mine are 14x7's. I had 15x7's just like them (II's) on a '72 351CJ Mustang....

The JTR mount will work w/ both trannies - they recommend the A4 tranny.

Kudos!

Pistons ande head = aluminum, FOD = iron or steel. I don't think aluminum will deform iron or steel at the speeds we're talking about....

Quarter panels only go to the body line - they don't bend over to the pillar area - I know - I've got one for the drivers' side on mine....from MSA.

Looks to me like you simply put the cable with the end that looks like a battery terminal in the positive battery cables' clamp, then attach the cable with the battery terminal clamp onto the positive terminal of the battery....

Welcome aboard - I hate you... I NEVER get deals like that!

I have Dura Blocks and love 'em!

A turbo Buick engine.....

A WC won't fit - the input shaft is different. You might try a search on T5's for the latest info on building one up with WC parts...G-Force is the vendor I believe. Probably better off adapting a Z32TT manual tranny.

Same as JMortensen... Of course, there's still time to turn to the Dark Side....

Wish I could say I've had a change to use the 40 lb pressure type I got from HF, but haven't yet. I HAVE built a 2'x2'x4' blast cabinet that I have used to clean up parts and some Western Cyclone II wheels with though. Once I have thecar on jackstands I'll be removing suspension, (engine, trans, driveshaft and gas tank already out) then putting it on a rotisserie. Anything that won't fit in the cabinet will be blasted with the pressure pot. Sorry I haven't had the chancd to try it out yet....

I too have gone Chris' route - bought Zeddfindings pans and bought a welder and took classesw - but I have more than pans to do - front fenders between door and front wheelwell and driver's rear quarter. Even so - with just pans you more than pay for the welder doing it yourself, and it isn't hard. I'll be starting with the pans first before doing any exterior work for obvious reasons. I have already built a rotisserie so I don't haqve to do this on my back....

Hey Papa: You wouldn't be in Trenton would you - as a scout I used to go up to Case Cave every year....

Glad that it's resolved - you'll enjoy a 220 class machine - even the 'lowly' MM175 - as I stated before, I love mine and it is well worth the money over a 135....

I would suspect that for an autocross or tight road course, the shorter the runner lenngth the better for better spool response - for limited rpm range use, paying attention to the length might pay a few dividends...

MSII has ignition built in and has higher resolution and FIDLE. MS1_Extra will need mods for ignition and FIDLE. If you are naturally aspirated, I'd go w/MSII.

Edited link no workie either...

Very nice Terry - I for one think it looks great - now I bet you're gonna fab some covers for 'em - aren'tcha?

You do know that you have to replace the dash harness also with an analog dash harness don't you? Otherwise you have to do some splicing.

Get spot weld drill bits and remove the spot welds, then install the pans, and re-spot weld the cross pan pieces to the new pans. Can't help you on the price. What's your time worth? Are you a good welder? You may not want to charge and barter some labor on something else.

You might want to check your local codes as pertains to wiring. Most localities want to have a 25% margin on the size of wire/breaker vs load. In my case the inspector said for a 19.x max load, I needed a 30 amp circuit. That was wiring to carry 30 amps and a 30 amp breaker. I talked to an inspector for a few circuits I wanted to add going to my garage and in my basement for welding, compressor and a freezer and an extra 120v for the garage, then got a permit. All he had to do was come back when I was ready to hook power up to the receptacles.

I have an MM175 and love it. at max it will pull 19.1 amps, so you should have it on a 30 amp circuit as a minimum. This is of courswe if you are going to use it at full caqoacity, which 1/4" is. You definitely don't want to upgrade the breaker on the 20 amp circuit because more than likely, the wiring is too small to carry the load and will present a fire hazard. I haven'r run across an electrical contractor yet who will massively over-wire a circuit just in case someone might be dumb enough to put in a larger breaker....

Well, since you're talking about SCH 40 pipe, why not just use a stick welder?

I have purchased 4 peak & hold injector boards and all the components - enough to do 2 V8 projects. One set of boards will be for the ZXT. I'll go ahead and assemble all 4 driver circuits so that if one goes down I can switch to another. I was actuaslly thinking that I would go with the 72 lb injectors if I could get them in the 11mm size. Thanks for verifying what I believe JefP's problem is. After the posts about the same size injectors causing no problems, it can only be a lack of resolution in the early 200 ECU causing the problem, unless of course JWT doesn't know what its' doing when programming it - which I doubt.