madkaw

Well I ran 3/8” supply in stock location with engine and trans installed . Bitch? Yes! i used the fuel tank vent line for return - it’s big enough

A lot of early Z’s had holes under the battery tray for A/C , that’s what I used . I also used the choke cable hole . I used the choke hole for sensor wiring ONLY . I fed all power and grounds under the battery. With MS there was two harnesses and almost 80 wires I think , but you don’t use all of them - more than likely - so I condensed inside the car and fed only necessary wires thru the firewall.

Well the trigger wire on the MS3x harness was already shielded . The problem is that I DO WANT to run my IAC wires parallel for packaging reasons . I might be able to minimize this , but the most direct route is with my sensor bundle .Theres a local electronics store down the street ( lucky me), so I might see if they have some shielding

I bought a used MILLER Syncrowave 210. Its above your budget , but I found it used for almost half retail with only a few hours on it. I have little tig experience , but this machine makes it easy . With inverter science it makes it small and I can do 110 or 220. Spool gun works better than I could have expected . Makes the pain of selling my Mikunis for a welder easier to swallow

Well on to IAC . Car is running fantastic but it's starting to turn cold and start ups might need a little assist. I am going with the 4 wire IAC from the Jeep 4.0 DIY Tune makes a block for mounting the IAC valve . New Borg Warner selonoid is about 45$ and pigtail is 18$ at your local Oreillys . So far - besides pulling wires- the hardest part was figuring out a mounting bracket and a place to mount . Didn't want to drill holes and it has to somewhere to make running vacuum lines handy . Plus this hunk of aluminum is big! Right now my question that bugs me is whether running these wires close to my sensor wiring is going to cause noise. It sure would be handy to run the wires there, but so far noise has not been an issue and I want it to stay that way.

Like said- guidelines . I would stay fat in key areas if heavier loading and go lean as you want cruising . I feel comfortable with 15 at cruise and 13:1 at WOT . Timing might be where the tuning might be critical or more critical than the fuel. I can post up my tune when I get on my laptop , but I'm pretty aggressive on my semi closed e88 head . I've had no detonation issues so far.

Sounds like a good TEAM! I can vouch for Richards work . Richard is a great tutor to help you get over the learning curve with MS. So if you guys have ever considered switching to MS - this is a good time and team to do it with!

I think your right Wheee, cut out like that will allow the tabs to lay flat, not sure what he is referring too. There's is no rea weight on the nose of the diff . i did mine like yours as a sandwich . I still get a thud occasionally so I must have something else going on. I also ran my diff just hanging from the RT mount without issue

Just let the VEAL do its thing and don't worry about the generator for now. Run the VEAL and if doesn't look to crazy then save it

I would take out the whole harness with the engine to sell as a package . You only need the hot ignition lead for the coil .

Put some fuel to it ! I don't see where you got shit for AE -its flat lined . Check out mine for a NA . Can't stop fucking with it.msq

Just go as sensitive as you can without have a constant enrichment on. Then start bumping up the percentage of the fuel shot. MS website had a good article about tuning accel enrichment here lately.

From memory - don't think this is the same valve arrangement

Care to share what pistons are from ? Or were these custom made? Deck height?

I've been on the road - but I'll look today

I've got one but off of a zx- have to see if their the same . I believe they are , but the ZXT might have had more plumbing

The key word here is OFFSET. If Dave takes the rod journal and cuts it smaller but to the outside of the center line then he has increased the stroke. He explained to me that the Nissan L24 rod with LD crank make for a crappy RS ratio. So he cuts down the rod journals smaller but OFFSET as to gain stroke at the same time decreasing weight. He then uses the Honda type rod which works with that journal size. He can use a longer rod which decreases side loading and gives more TDC time. So basically the altering of the RS ratio is by the increased stroke and rod length. And yes he is doing tall deck motors too. I sold him my diesel block for him to build some super motor.

Sweet- I never seen one of the covers until now. Could of used it for my 70 restore - thanks a lot - lol Good dea on the battery!

I believe the idea is that decreasing the size of the journal by offset grinding allows for a longer rod which increases the RS closer to a preferred 1.7 :1. I don't know exact length of rod he uses so I can't do the math. But 133 divided by 83= 1.6:1 So if he can get away with a 138mm rod, then your closer to 1.7 . Plus less side load on the piston walls . This is my understanding - which might be way off, but no hard numbers to do the actual math.

I also had a bad experience with SI . Wouldn't pass a hardness test that the machinist did- he wouldn't use them .

And I have decided to go forged after researching . Dave probably wouldn't have offered me any other option anyways - lol.

Tim, I think I am confusing myself . I believe Dave was comparing the R/S ratio of using L24 rods compared to what he does with the Honda rods. I believe he did not like the R/S ratio of the LD crank with the 133 L24 rods - thus he offset grinds for his desired RS ratio

Kind of why all my future plans with my Z involve refinements . Like my exhaust but needs to be quieter. Love my handling , but going back rubber suspension bits. Got comfy 350z leather seats( power heated),and don't care about weight- just get more HP. AC will be soon and EFI has made things better and not as smelly. Power steering is on the radar too. Maybe time to move on for you. I'm still in love with the look of my Z and hard to find a car as good looking - period. BMW would probably first on the list or Porsche 911 if I moved on

Glad to back on Hybridz ! I have a block on the way to Rebello now and trying to make sure I am clear on my direction for this build. Yes , maybe I should have figured this out already but I have time since Dave is a ways out from working my block. I had a diesel block he wanted so I took advantage of the shipping and sent him my LD crankshaft and a N42 to prep along with the diesel block. I'm looking for displacement number 1. This engine will be going in my DD - a car I drive whenever weather permits , to the store or a long leasurely drive or maybe to the track for some fun. I realize that Dave builds some really big HP motors , and I want HP , but I want longevity and reliability . I am also hoping for versatility also with the short block. For now I am wanting a NA motor , but I know I will want to pressurize at some point. Yes I know Dave is the one to talk to, but trying to educate myself as much as possible so I don't waste his time with dumb questions. I imagine most of his stroker builds are purpose build for high HP first priority , so my intentions might change his recipe. I know he offset grinds the crankshaft because he thinks the homemade stroker ( L24 rods) have an undesireable rod/stroke ratio. I don't know what length rod he uses but I imagine it's longer - don't see any negatives with this no matter what build. Forged pistons is in his recipe also, not sure if there is a street and race choice on this. Reading up on forged pistons I've read of pin offsets that quiet down cold running and help with excessive clearance noises. Forged are necessary for the rpms that his engines make power at compared to our stock cast counterparts. For a street friendly motor would I need forged pistons compared to quality pistons hypereutectic style. I could live with staying under 7k rpm and build the motor with that intention. In my dream world I would like to have a short block that would allow for a small chamber head for fun NA . Later on install a bigger chamber head for pressurized fun. Would forged pistons be required for this or just preferred or not? I guess from what I read it's all about tune and detonation . Detonation will kill either cast or forged pistons. I guess the cast winds up being chatostrophic vs forged that might not take out the whole motor . Guys do very well with cast and turbocharging as proven on this site. Cast would be cheaper , but how much I don't know. Hell, Dave might not even have or offer a cast option . Up for opinions and ideas before I chat with Dave. It will be months before he gets to my project , so I have time . He is a bit behind he said because he lost over a week taking care of his mom that was involved in a serious accident . He didn't have much time to talk but I wanted to get him this diesel block and get it out of my shop. I threw this up on FB , but really don't like that venue - glad to be back on Hybridz