LLave

No tech to add directly, but go check out JMortensen's build tread, as I recall he went into a fair amount of depth regarding suspension pick-up points.

Grannyknot, much appreciated! That is very helpful.

If you can snag a few measurements or take a couple of pics with a tape measure in it, that would be awesome!

I am hoping someone can take a few measurements for me. I need to repair the battery tray area of my firewall and inner fender. But the sheemetal has already (poorly) been replaced and I have nothing to reference to. Can someone give me the dimensions of the square/rectangular features that are on the firewall? And their distance from the horizontal and vertical round beads? I want to get it close to factory. Also, the height of the tray and wheel well from the frame, or the top of the firewall. Thanks!

Do you like those belts? Are they reasonably comfortable?

If I hadn't built mine, I would of purchased Hoke's kit.

I love the idea, that is real hot rodding and what made Hybridz great.

Often that is a sign you are running lean. Have you pulled a spark plug to get a "read"?

I met Rick from Rick's Tanks at SEMA last week, he has some really well built weld in tank conversions. Not to mention he is a cool dude. http://rickstanks.com/

I will see you there! I will be cruising around with Quarter Tilt Kreations. There is lots of sight seeing and good old fashioned people watching along the strip.

Mike, I know its been an awfully rough project for you, but I must admit, it has been a real pleasure for me to follow along the ride. Thank you for sharing your experience and taking us along for the ups and downs of a challenging project. -Mike

I would rather rebuild a cage then try to rebuild a chassis that is that far gone. Just my preference, I suppose.

You often see this, people unhappy with the rate of a shop, "how can this cost SO much?". Simple answer, being in business is horrendously expensive. Especially in California. Remember, the shop has to pay for the labor, the tools, the rent, the utilities, the multiple insurance policies it takes to operate in CA. Not to mention, if anything goes wrong you will certainly come back demanding the honor their work and fix it for free, right away. That liability has to be built into the price. Professionals, in any profession, are not cheap. Yeah, your buddy with a press will do the work for a couple of beers, but he does not carry the same liability and overhead of a professional shop. On the flip side, it's just plain bad business to not communicate the price to the customer before the work is done. Even if its a ball park "this should be between $40-$50 depending on X". Just my .02 I suppose.

What size tire is on there? How well does the 9" width work without flares?

Thank you so much for taking the time to share. Your work is really inspirational, seriously. If you ever get a chance, some pictures of tools and methods would be awesome.

Holy metal polish! Clean setup.

Yeah, of course, I designed it as a solution to my specific setup, not for the CX kit. I posted the pictures more for inspiration for people to build their own. Looking at the CX passenger mount, the lower passenger mounting position looks like it might interfere with the mount. If you lived close by, I would just let you borrow it and test fit. The JCI fit is a really good buy. If I didn't have CAD ability and ready access to a CNC plasma, I would have bought one of the JCI kits.

Here is the solution I cam up with. I posted this over on my thread regarding my engine position. Accessory drive:

Cheap knock off wheels? I would be very hesitant to use wheels of unknown quality, unless the car just wants to sit and look pretty. If you truly intend on building a "600 hp LS", you are going to want to think about safety.

I suggest updating the first post with the details. Which models are available for group buy, what the starting cost is, when funds are due, when product is estimated to be delivered. I would want to know the details prior to committing.

Full disclosure, I did end up cutting the unused mounting ears of the frame rail side of the compressor to buy myself a little bit more clearance. Also, I have an under-drive pulley that gives me a slight bit more room for the belt tensioner pulley. I did save the CAD files. I could whip up another set of brackets. If you look close in this pic, you can see the fittings for the lines and the removed mounting tab (flat surface closest to the camera used to be tab)

Richard, The compressor is a Sanden / Vintage Air 04709-VMA. Which is really a Sanen SD709 compressor. It has side exit ports. I did learn that he compressor heads are interchangeable on many Sanden compressors - Link to image http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/111405d1368082177-617-sanden-style-c-compressor-mounting-kit-sale-installation-instructions-sanden-heads.jpg It does clear the standard motor mount position. However, with the JTR/Sanderson headers, it is real tight. I will be fabricating my motor mounts shortly. I think I am going to use 1.5" DOM from a frame rail bushing to a plate on the motor. To be determined.

Mikelly, Best wishes to you and your family.

Off the cuff, based on the little detail provided, sounds like you could be running lean. Google reading spark plugs. Pull them and take a crack at reading them.

Settled in on the location, decided I wanted to add AC, so.... I designed and fabricated a mount and belt tensioning system.Then came up with a shorter belt PS delete main accessory drive. I still need to go get a slightly shorter belt for, the current is just for mock-up. Anyway pics for those who may be interested: Accessory drive: