Miles

Techno Toy Tuning (TTT) has developed a front brake kit that fits under 14inch and 15 inch wheels. No details about the calipers or rotors. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/240z-micro-big-brake-kit I talked to the owner of TTT and he said that they would soon have a similar rear caliper kit that includes an integral parking brake available that will fit under 14 inch and 15 inch wheels. A Classic Z car member has already installed the TTT front kit. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62973-new-micro-big-brake-kit/

What do you mean by stub axle? The part that goes in the side of the differential or the part that goes in the bottom of the strut and connects the half shaft to the wheel flange?

There is your clue. The oil pressure sending unit is just a variable resister. If I recall correctly, the sending unit basically grounds the oil pressure gauge (moving the needle) as oil pressure increases. So, if when the wire to the oil pressure gauge is connected, and the gauge needle goes all the way to full pressure, what does that imply: The wire going to the sending unit is shorted out? However, when you removed the wire from the sending unit, the needle did not move. So you can rule this out. Or the sending unit is bad. Another test: while watching the oil gauge, with power on, short the sending wire to ground. What happens? Does the needle move to full pressure? If the needle moves the gauge is ok.

What year? MSA has them

By cones do you mean the rubber residual check valves or the cone shaped seats the brake pipe seats sits on when mated to the mc? And yes every 280zx mc I took apart had the rubber residual check valves.

Re: Holley model number 4150 Street Avenger 570 cfm p/n 0-80570 Goodwrench SBC 350 crate engine Gathering parts for rebuild due to ragged idle on start up and low speed surging up to 30 mph. High speed cruise and WOT car is still a rocket. Car dyno tuned in 2010. Ran fine for 10 years until about a month ago. I am researching the replacement part number for the primary metering block should I need one . The Holley website does not give a p/n for a metering block for the 570cfm carburetor. I found a Holley part number cross reference pdf that lists the metering block for the 570 cfm carburetor as n/s (non serviced). So if the metering block needs replacing is there another Holley p/n that will work?

What year and model z car do you have? Will it be a daily driver? Any mods done to car?

There are three install kits available: Jags That Run (JTR) Motor Sport Auto (MSA) Johns Cars Each has its own pros and cons. Driveshaft alignment is critical for all of these kits. You can research each one at HybridZ and Google search All of the kits assume that you have some automotive mechanical skills. If not done correctly these cars can kill you,

Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Buy the JTR Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual from http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html Read it at least five times. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the Hybridz forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

https://forums.hybridz.org/search/?q=dreaded clunk

Try starting the car with the wire to the oil pressure sensor disconnected from the sensor and observe the oil pressure gauge. With the engine running and the wire removed from the sensor what does oil pressure gauge do?

If you can block the engine up, pull the transmission (leaving the bell housing on the engine) and loosen all of the clamps that hold the fuel line in the tunnel you may be able to move the fuel enough to cut that group of fittings off. Then you can install a A-N hose fitting to hard line adapter on the fuel line. You will have to teach yourself how to make up a SS braided hose ends (fittings). The other problem you have is that the transmission is actually riding against the fuel line. The PO cut a piece of the transmission out to clear the fuel line. You will need to address this by re-routing the fuel line away from the transmission.

I don't want to scare you, but that first 240Z V8 project I mentioned above was so FUBARed up by the previous owner that we ended up pulling it completely apart (shell) and started over. The only part we kept was the engine.

You can also use Microsoft Paint. Open the picture in Paint and select Resize. A picture can be resized between 1% to100% up or down.

I didn't see this before I had coffee. It could kill you. So re-engineer your fuel line routing before driving this car. Suggest that you post pictures of the fuel tank to fuel pump to fuel line and include showing how the fuel pump is wired. In other words all of the fuel related equipment, wires, pump etc back by the fuel tank. I now suspect there may be problems in how the fuel system was built from the tank forward.

By the way, did the previous owner install an oil pressure sensing fuel pump cut off switch. In case of a crash you want the electric fuel pump to stop pumping gas. The oil pressure safety switch senses when oil pressure goes to zero and shuts off the fuel pump. Basically, power for the fuel pump runs through the switch to a fuel pump relay (recommended) to the fuel pump. When the engine is running oil pressure rises and closes the switch energizing a relay that closes and switches 12 volts to the fuel pump. Without the relay, the oil pressure safety switch has to carry the amperage load demanded by the fuel pump which sometimes burns out he switch. Also, the fuel pump is most efficient when it receives a full 12 volts. Painless sells a very nice fuel pump relay harness that can be connected and triggered by the oil pressure safety switch. See picture below. There are alternate install locations and methods to cut off the fuel pump. Recommend that you purchase the Jags that Run Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual and memorize it. The manual explains how to build a safe V8 Z car.

Captainkim There are several solutions to your problem. None of them include a rubber hose (they crack and leak), cutting a hole, or putting weld goop on a fuel fitting. The solutions do include relocating where the fuel line ends up in the engine bay, proper fuel lines and fittings that make for a safe and reliable fuel system. The previous owner of my first 240Z V8 also cut the fuel line just behind the firewall and then ran a rubber hose to the carb. The hose cracked and leaked. I replaced the hose once and it also cracked and leaked. The cut portion of the fuel line was down in the trans tunnel like yours and impossible to get to. What to do? I ran a new fuel line all the way from the tank to the original stock location on the passenger frame rail, added a filter and pressure gauge and all was well. On my second 240Z V8 project I kept the stock fuel line location on the passenger side frame rail, added a filter and pressure gauge. See pictures below. Options: 1. Cut the collection of brass fittings off the fuel hard line and install a A-N to hardline adapter into which you screw in a A-N hose fitting. Then you run a flex line along the passenger side frame rail with A-N hose fittings on each end to the approx location of the original stock fuel line. This line will connect to your regulator and pressure gauge and then to the carb. The flex line must be anchored to the car with rubber clamps along its route to the carb. When you cut the fuel line where the fittings are, use a tubing cutter and make sure that the cut is perfectly square with the tubing i.e., not an angle. De-burr the cut with a fine file and then slide on the A-N hose to hard line adapter. To do this fix you will need to learn how to select and install A-N fittings. There are many videos available that show how to cut SS flex hose and install A-N fittings. This is expensive, but you fuel system will be leak free and will out live you. 2. You could run a new hard line all the way from the fuel pump to the stock location on the passenger side frame rail. From the hard line run a SS flex line with A-N fittings to the carb. Note: if you are not comfortable with A-N fittings you can use standard hose clamps on the SS flex line. In this case you would use push on type nipples on each device that needs a hose connected to it. Recommendation: Take some time and look at all of the options before cutting or modifying your car. At a minimum, to do the job correctly, you will need to secure your car on jack stands and pull the transmission and driveline in order to re-work the kluge* the previous owner created. * kluge = a mass of IL-fitting parts forming a disgusting whole.

Here is a handy carb calculator: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/CarbCFMCalc.html

CalZ was just pointing out a fact - this is a Datsun site with a mix of Ford, Chevy, racers, etc members.

While Hybridz has a lot of good information from some very gifted mechanics/builders, I have found over the years that I needed to augment Hybridz searches with other automotive web sites. I reasoned that my hybrid 240z with Chevy engine, and parts from other Japanese cars, was really just another hot rod with issues that all hot rodders run into. So I started looking at hot rod, Corvette, Camaro, Toyota, 240SX, Nismo etc websites for ideas and information. For example, My Holley 570 Street Avenger carb was indicating a stumble and lean sag at low speed cruise. I found the solution on a hot rod website. I have also purchased or down loaded manuals, manufacturer instructions, factory service manuals etc for every component used in my build project. Many of the manufacturers supplement their installation manuals with videos on YouTube.

I haven't been myself lately.

Can you confirm that you have the correct rotor? Could you post a picture showing the rotor alignment inside the caliper?

1. Replace the booster. Before installing the booster, glue the reaction disk in place. Hold the booster so the push rod is pointing up to minimize dropping the reaction disk inside. 2. Install the booster. 2. Adjust booster to MC push rod to the correct length. The reaction disk is glued in place so no worry about loosing it. You can fine tune the length after the MC is installed. 3. Bench bleed the MC. See various threads on bench bleeding. Take your time and remove all of the fine bubbles. 4. Re-install the MC. 5. Bleed the brakes.

Cardone used to offer a MC rebuilding service through O'reilleys Auto Parts. You take the MC (has to be rebuildable) to O'reilleys and they send it to Cardone for the rebuild. Seem to recall that it took about 2 - 3 weeks.

That's the administrator's job.