Miles

" i looked at the fsm, quality sucky but illl try it again. I got the fuse box to because the glass fuse type burnt a hole straight threw the plastic. Yeah the smoking happened before the fuse box issues. Maybe if i print it out it will look a little better. " You have a dead short. You don't need to unplug your amp meter. You need to find the short. What circuit does the fuse that burnt through the plastic serve? Look at the plastic fuse cover and it will tell you which circuit the fuse goes to. This will be your starting point. Get both Haynes and Chilton 240Z manuals. They both have schematics. Find the offending circuit on the schematic and trace it in red pencil and then go find it in the car. Then go point to point until you find where the circuit is shorted. Unplug things to see if the short goes away. Note some of those fuses share more circuits than what they are labled for. So you will have to use a schematic to find all possible conductors on the shorted circuit. In my experience chasing shorts, it is usually something that got moved/changed such as removing lights for paint and then pluging them back in backwards so the power goes to ground instead of to the bulb. A paint shop did this to one of my Z cars and the first time I drove it at night my marker lights went out and kept blowing fuses. Turns out the paint shop plugged in the right rear marker light backwards. So what did you do just before you started blowing fuses or seeing smoke.

Basically you need to: - Determine what wires the engine/transmission combination you are installing requires: ignition, tach, oil pressure, water temp, alternator, starter, wires for automatic trans function etc. - Before removing any wires tag and number each wire in the engine bay. Write color code, tag number and function in a note book. - If you are not sure of the function test the wire in question with a volt meter while turning the ignition off, on and start position. Check the schematic. Note function. - Disconnect the wires from the engine and carefully pull the wiring harness over to the passenger fender. - Unwrap the harness. - Separate the engine wires you tagged from the rest of the harness. What wires you use depends on the type of engine etc you install. - Draw a schematic or make a list showing what wires (with tag numbers) you are going to use. - Don't cut any of the wires until you have figured out how you want to route them in the engine bay. - When everything checks out, and the wires are attached to where you want them, re-wrap the wiring harnesses you took apart. Just take one wire at a time and understand its' function vs what your install requires.

Buy the Jags That Run (JTR) 240Z V8 swap manual. The JTR manual explains the v8 swap including electrical wiring details. The swap is fairly simple, but it requires attention to some details that are covered in the JTR manual. Also get the Haynes and Chilton 240Z manuals as they both have schematics in them that you will need to complete the V8 swap. A number of Z clubs have posted electrical schematics for the S30 series so you can do a search for those as well. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/

Jnewby MSA does not explain what is in thier kit very well. Call them and confirm that you want the kit that covers side rails, floors, trans tunnel, riser, wheel housings, strut towers and rear deck. That is what came in my Delux kit from MSA. The MSA kit is well made and fits well. Edit: MSA calls it the Custom kit in thier on-line catalog. p/n 40-2596G

It is not clear why you want a 280Zx MC. Motor Sports Auto (MSA) sells master cylinders for Z cars. So does Courtesey Nissan and Black Dragon. MSA or Courtesey Nissan might even still have and OEM MC available. Unless you have done it before, I don't advise you to rebuild your MC. There is more to it than just replacing seals. If the bore is worn or pitted it will continue to leak after the new seals are installed. If you have a stock 240Z then you do not want to install a 280ZX MC unless you have also installed some kind of big brake kit like the Toyota 4x4 calipers with vented rotor up grade for front brakes. If you install the larger bore 280ZX MC on your stock 240Z you will notice that you have to push harder on the brake pedal. Be safe. If you are not familiar with doing brake work you may want to consider taking the car to a brake shop and have the MC replaced.

Replace the master cylinder. Be sure to properly bench bleed the new master cylinder before installing it on the car. Search the Brake section for how to instructions as it has been written up several times.

You will need to trace the power circuits with a volt meter or test light. Check to see if your fuse box melted.

Searching found this in the FAQ thread http://forums.hybrid...gine-swaps-bar/

I wasted about three months researching carpet and followed many false leads. The MSA Delux kit is fine. Note that the strut covers fit best if you fill in the holes in the strut frame with some thin wood sheet material. I just cut the wood sheet to follow the angles of the strut frames and glued them on. This will hold the shape of the carpet over strut tower better. See attached picture for area to be filled in. Also, there is no hole cut in the strut cover carpet for access to the strut attachment bolts. I carefully cut a small hole in the carpet just big enough to access the bolts. I was able to install the new plastic strut caps to cover the holes so it looks stock.

I fixed those links in my post above. I found several Ford and Chevy sites talking about the Taurus fan and relay configurations with how-to instructions. Seems to be a popular install.

I used the MSA Delux kit which covers the floor, trans tunnel,side rails, riser, rear deck and rear strut towers. Looks excellent. No fitment problems. I glued all of the carpet except for the rear deck. I installed sound and heat insulation before installing the carpet. It was easy to do as long as you don't rush it and plan ahead what pieces to install first.. By the way, does any company make an actual molded carpet kit for the 240Z, 260Z or 280Z? The so called "molded carpet" kits I found were actually sewn sections.

Check out the test data for the MK VIII fan on the http://forums.corvet...spal-duals.html/ link. It plots CFM vs amps at various static pressures.

Here is a link for more info on the Volvo relay for two speed fan operation. Some links and side bar discussion for two speed relay controls. http://www.nastyz28....ad.php?t=200028 Link to MK VIII fan performance data: http://forums.corvet...spal-duals.html Link to Hollister comapny that makes a relay kit for the two speed MK VIII fan http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MarkVIII

Here is the Miata tire size calculator: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html You will need to input the original tire specifications. Followed by the desired tire size. At the bottom of the page it will tell you what your speedometer error is if the diameter of the tire is larger or smaller than the original tire diameter. If you want to keep your speedometer accurate then keep the stock tire diameter. If you want a larger diameter tire and keep you speedometer accurate then you would need to play around with changing the speedo drive gear ratio in the transmission. With the tire size calculator you can simulate how changing tire size variables (wheel diameter, aspect ratio etc.) relates to speedometer errors.

Best link I found for a Ford build: http://lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm

I have been using Toyo Proxes on my stock and V8 240Z cars for some time. All of my 240Z cars have been daily drivers in a sunny warm climate. I have not had a single problem with these tires. I bought a set from Les Schwab last year for about $130 each. Note: if you change your tire size it will throw your speedometer off. There are a number of tire size calculators on the web where you can simulate different wheel and tire combinations and determine the effects on your speedometer. You will need to know the gear ratio of your differntial which you can research here in the drivetrain forum. Look in the threads for differentials.

On hot days here in Sacramento my temp gauge gets up around 210 - 218 deg. I have the JTR radiator with a Flex-A-Lite 180 fan which I now think may be a marginal set up on a very hot day. So I am debating if I should up grade the radiator or do the Taurus fan install. My alternator is only 60 amp so if I go the Taurus route I'll have the additional expense of upgrading the alternator too. So now I know what Volvo relay to get if I go with the Taurus fan. I am also looking at using an Arizona Z or a Ron Davis custom radiator. Thanks for the info.

For years I just removed the ash tray and set my large soda cup down in the hole. I can't do that now because my USB jack for my entertainment system lives down in the former ash tray hole. Try it.

If you don't already have it, get the book "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" by Wick Humble. It is full of neat tips on how to dismantle, install and repair Z car parts. I used it extensively when I rebuilt my 240Z. I got mine from MSA.

what year and model Volvo is the relay from? Also, what is the amp rating for your alternator?

The housing is held togther with a heavy caulking type material. Remove the bulb sockets and soak the housing and lens in hot tap water. I fill up my kitchen sink with hot water, submerge the lens/housings, and let them soak about 30 minutes and then gently pry and pull the lens away from the housing. Re-heat as required as you don't want to force the lens and housing apart. To re-assemble the lens and housing go to your hardware supply place and buy a roll of cauking rope aka "Dum-Dum". It is a soft gray material that looks like modeling clay. Place the "rope" where the lens and housing interface and then apply even pressure around the perimeter of the lens to press the two parts togther. Then trim off any material that squeezed out around the perimeter. I used plastic polish to clean the lens, but you can also buff them. There may be a post here that tells how to polish the lens.

I have one. Doesn't affect shifting, but does get in the way of the Parking Brake. The cup holders are small.

Your welcome. Make haste slowly.

I shortened the shifter as seen below. Note that you may need to trim the shfter hole on the driver's side because the shfter housing may touch the tunnel at that point when the engine is torqued over. This will cause a major vibration every time you hammer the throttle. You will need to make some kind of cover for the large Datsun shifter hole. When you screw it to the tunnel be mindful that there are brake and fuel lines running inside the tunnel on the passenger side. Note also that the Camaro shifter does not move much so it does not need a big hole. Install the shifter on the trans and mock up a cardboard cover with the hole where you need it. Fab up an aluminum cover from the cardboard pattern. On the Tilton, you can swap the Datsun push rod into it so you can use the stock push rod and fork. To bleed the Tilton just open the bleed screw on the slave and let gravity fill the hose and slave. As the MC empties top it off so you don't run out of fluid and get air in the line. I let it drip for about a hour. Then close the bleed screw and push the clutch once or twice and it should be perfect. Adust the push rod and the clutch stop bumper so there is a small amount of play in the pedal. I removed the Camaro slave and assembled the hose, fittings and slave on the bench and then lowered the assembly into the car. Be sure to use a swivel fitting between the hose and McLeod roll pin adaptor to make routing the hose easier. If you are not sure about the fittings just take the whole assembly to your local speed shop that sells Russell or Earls fittings.

What is the MC bore size? Here is a method for the Tilton MC: I used the Tilton 7/8" MC, Mcleod roll pin adaptor and a Camaro slave. Parts numbers: Tilton 7/8" MC TIL-74-875U $80.00 Summit Napa Camaro slave UP37821 $43.98 NEW P/N IS NCF 73110 McLeod roll pin adaptor MCL 139026 $46.39 Summit Earls 32" -3 ST/90 Clutch Hose EAR6301172 $27.00 Earls -4 FEM swivel EAR 915104 $7.99 Earls -3 to -4 union EAR991902 $4.99 Note on the McLeod roll pin adaptor the tube part that slips into the plastic Camaro slave has a diameter that is slightly larger than the hole it fits into. I had to file the wide part of the tube so that the adaptor would complety seat into the roll pin hole on the Camaro slave.