Jump to content
HybridZ

grannyknot

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    729

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    30

 Content Type 

Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. grannyknot
    I like this suff, it says once it is mixed you have 4 days but if it is warm you get about 2 days. I have put a half a can in the fridge and it was still usable 10 days later. Muriatic doesn't convert rust, it removes it, then when it is rinsed off it will flash rust so fast you can watch it. Nasty stuff, I have never found a way to neutralize it, it seems to get into the steel and continue rusting under the primer. Phosphoric acid (Ospho) is the best to use.
  2. grannyknot
    Sorry Jugs but to do the job right you need to drill the spot welds out with a spot weld drill and remove the tray to get access to the rust underneath, otherwise it will just come back. Grind or sand back to clean metal and apply 2k epoxy primer and then paint. There are some good 2k primers in rattle cans now for small jobs like the battery tray area.
  3. grannyknot
    A lot of the autoX guys simply remove the backing plate altogether, cool air covers the whole disc.
  4. grannyknot
    You can plate every piece on the car if you want but as you were told on ClassicZcar.com, basically any part that doesn't have paint on it was plated.
  5. grannyknot
    Yes looks very good, what are your plans for it?
  6. grannyknot
    With the linkage not attached and new motor plugged in turn the wiper switch on for a few seconds then turn it off, the motor will stop in the park position. With out turning the motor from where it is attach the linkage so that it is in the park position as well, once motor and linkage are installed and working attach you wiper blades also in the park position. Test it out with your blades raised or with water on the windshield so you are not taxing the motor. While you have the linkage out make sure you overhaul the spindles that move the wiper blades, they can get very stiff with corrosion.
  7. grannyknot
    Sweet, this car is going to kick ass.
  8. grannyknot
    A 240 cover kind of fits but not really, you would have to trim it. Best just to wait for the real thing.
  9. grannyknot
    Okay, I'll bite, how empty? Superb work, I remember when you started this thread, pie in the sky we were thinking, happy to be wrong.
  10. grannyknot
    I have a can of Brakekleen and the old seat covers I just replaced so maybe I'll rub some grease into them and then try to get it out, I'll post some pics. Brakekleen smells exactly like the old dry cleaning fluid they used before it was banned.
  11. grannyknot
    Is this your opinion or do you have experience with Brakekleen ruining a seat cover or foam?
  12. grannyknot
    What car are you working on, what year?
  13. grannyknot
    Looks like you got the paint issues fixed.
  14. grannyknot
    I would like to see this on my hood, can you arrange it?
  15. grannyknot
    That's a great idea.
  16. grannyknot
    Keep your chin up, this is exactly where so many projects fail, on this forum alone there are hundreds guys who have been right where you are now. There are lots of project threads in the archives if you need a little inspiration, Mig welding is not that hard to learn but I would suggest you get a tank of Argon/Co2 and not go the fluxcore wire route. Think of the character building, good stories to tell at your first car show.
  17. grannyknot
    With that engine mounted behind the front shock towers, technically you will have a mid-engine car!
  18. grannyknot
    Your first post on this modified Z forum is about dog behavior? Wouldn't a dog forum be of more use?
  19. grannyknot
    I don't think they will go for too much but I'll take them off your hands for $50 a piece Really I don't know what they are fetching these days but I wouldn't let them go for less than $400 a piece and that is probably still low. But think about my offer
  20. grannyknot
    Don't buy a HF welder, you will regret it, they are garbage. Learning to Mig is pretty easy on a good machine. If you can find a used Miller or Lincoln that would be ideal and after the car is repaired if you find you are not using it you will get every cent back when you sell it on Craigs. This is the part you need, https://tabcoparts.com/1234-42395.html Drill out the spot welds, clean up the rust underneath, weld in your new sill. Oh, just re read your first post, so you already have the sill, get a spot weld drill and you're ready to go. I can send you some detailed pics of the procedure if you are interested.
  21. grannyknot
    Not sure I remember, I think the replacement strip had extra length compared to the original.
  22. grannyknot
    Where to start? There is so many possibilities, I'm sure I can come up with a few for you but I'll start with this one, this is a mod I wish the factory would have done, there would have been a lot less rust in the rear of the Z's'. I just welded a 4" lip to the rain gutter on both sides, now instead of water pooling on the back deck lid it runs right off.
  23. grannyknot
    @AlbatrossCafe, is that the Amsoil EaAU air filter we were talking about? Very interested to hear what you have to say about it.
  24. grannyknot

    IMG 20160911 213612363

    grannyknot commented on pigz's gallery image in Members Albums

    IMG 20160911 213612363
    Delicious! Just want to take a bite.
  25. grannyknot
    Once the door is mounted on the car there aint no taking pictures, no room. But I just felt both D/S and P/S doors on my 72 Z and both of those holes that you have arrows to were added by some PO
×
×
  • Create New...