grannyknot

Here is a thread that has been going on for a few weeks on ClassicZ, it might answer some of your questions, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59209-fyi-240z-dashboards/

Yeah that's a difficult corner to work on unless the car is upside down on a rotisserie, if the Z is going to be concourse then all the spot welds have to be drilled out, the entire panel removed and reworked, but your Z is going to be a driver I guess? so all you can do is hammer/dolly it out as best you can and smooth it over with as little filler as possible.

As long as the original spot welds are still there or new ones were added then you should be fine, I don't think that area does flex much. Just make sure you seal those areas up on the inside, the rear tire flings everything up into those corners.

With Speedhut gauges you can customize them for many different looks and styles.

That doesn't look deep at all, looks like a scuff, if it worries you you could just give that section a very thin smear of high temp sealant.

John, is a stand up guy, you'll get rails.

Can't comment on nylon fuel lines as I have no experience with them but good old Cunifer, https://cunifer.com/ is very easy to work with, compatible with anything used in cars and holds it's shape. Looks pretty when you buff it with steel wool.

I think the point is when you finally get tired of having the upper half of your engine sand blasted by K&N you just look up the K&N part # and there is the Amsoil filter. Amsoil and K&N are very different companies.

I was reading up on this new material they are using for some air filters now, EaAU sounds very promising but there is not a lot info that I could find. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/air/amsoil-ea-universal-air-induction-filters/

Albatross, I have this one for sale, K&N filter RE 0800, I used it for one season 700 kms, just as you see it in the pic, perfect working condition, 3" ID, 6" wide, 12" long, $50 The pics are here, https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1320806789

Yes Yes, I have installed 2 of them now, the vinyl is good quality but the foam is about twice as thick as the original foam and a bit stiffer. It makes for a harder install because you have to roll that extra thickness in between the roof and the header apron, a second person is really needed. But looks great when done.

I'll be pulling the unit this weekend and I'll check all the connections again and see if there is a model # on the pot, I tested it as well and it works perfectly.

@socorob, I'm using the same electronic controller as you, the one from Bruno in Italy, I have about 800 miles on the car since I installed it and it just died on me, it was out of warranty so had to buy another. The symptons are, full on pwr/steering or no pwr/steering at all, sometimes it is on and sometimes not, the dimmer switch has no effect but I tested the switch itself and it is working fine. Just a heads up, full pwr/steering came on while I was on the highway, scared the crap out of me, I thought the steering shaft had let go.

Gauges have to be removed/installed from the front, take lots of pics of the wiring harness before removing, it can get tricky installing the harness around the tach and Odo.

Really hard to say, to be sure you would have to scrape some of the undercoat off to get a better look at the metal, the d/s floor looks to me like it has had some patching done.

Miky, are going to bring it out to the OntZcar swapmeet in April? Would love to see it. Great work.

I went with the OBX and I'm very happy with it, of course I had to dis assemble it, clean the crap out and change the washers/bolts and reverse all the gears. I have one driving season on it plus a track day and it runs quiet, BUT I had a differential shop install in the R200 and set up the lash.

Ah yes, bathtub caulking, a great automotive repair material, that means soon you will find wood screws holding panels together and Marretts connectors twisted in the wiring harness with thick gobs of electrical tape wrapped around them like Egyptian mummies. I wish I had taken more pictures.

Man that is some serious rust, that's brave of you to tackle the doglegs. Is that wire mesh and bondo the PO fix you mentioned?

How about drilling out the spotwelds of that buckled piece, remove it, rework it, replace it? It will be easier than all the measuring you will have to do the other way, you could also add a stiffener on the inside where the bend was and you just know there is rust in there.

Unless you can see that buckle from the engine bay side you could get away with just boxing that bend in with some sheet metal to get the strength back. Just a thought.

Congratulations, it is about time the prices of modified Z's started heading up.

I started using this stuff on the bmw's and they have the same thing in 10w30 https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-20w-50-synthetic-motor-oil/

Exactly! Anyone putting aftermarket additives in their oil should read this article. I only learned this myself last year so I'm not trying to pass myself off as an expert. 2 good quotes, "Why can’t the average racer simply purchase a ZDP supplement and significantly improve the cam and lifter durability of his oil? The primary reason is that the ZDP molecule is a complex chemical in which a metallic substance has been combined with a hydrocarbon to make the metallic material soluble in oil, and dissolving the ZDP into the oil is the key to maximizing ZDP performance. " "The safest way to ensure maximum camshaft and lifter protection is to purchase engine oils specifically compounded for your application. It’s always best to let an experienced oil formulator and blender put your oil together for you " Not trying to start the oil wars again

I'm sure they are fine, once they are bolted down there is no movement. But seem to remember that the short ones, 3/4" are for the very early cars and the 1" spacers is for all the cars afterward. I think there is an explanation on MSA, I'm pretty sure they sell both.