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grannyknot

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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. grannyknot
    Very nice work, the stitch welds are worth all the trouble, I did my car last winter and it has made a huge difference to the stiffness of the car, no squeaks anymore.
  2. grannyknot
    Wow, $1500 I think I have $140 into my electric steering system. We use to have a couple of good How To threads in the archives here but they seem to be gone now since the change over. Google search has few under "saturn electric steering"
  3. grannyknot
    Sorry, only one per customer, if you wrecked it I'm not sure you deserve another
  4. grannyknot
    Love it when the manufacture clearly labels the cam and main bearing caps.
  5. grannyknot
    Best looking 2+2 I have ever seen.
  6. grannyknot
    Looks like you are taking apart the lock cylinder and tumblers, that is brave
  7. grannyknot
    Was your engine cold and the throttle butterflys closed? Engine must be up to temp, butterflys must be open.
  8. grannyknot
    Try this, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51280-caswell-plating/?tab=comments#comment-467409
  9. grannyknot
    They are gone, stolen by Photosuckit.
  10. grannyknot
    " left side only , damaged ( crack ) , repairable and paintable " I didn't know you could paint your headlight covers!
  11. grannyknot
    As good as Project Binky is they don't have Fun Facts with Mrs. Jeff so can never really compete with Home Built
  12. grannyknot
    It certainly looks like the right one but make sure you confirm with the part # I would say you should disassemble not only to make sure the gears are in the right orientation but also to replace those cheesy washers that OBX uses, they won't last if you don't replace them.
  13. grannyknot
    Hey your doglegs aren't too bad, at least the shape is still there so if you can't save the metal itself you will have a template for the patch.
  14. grannyknot
    jkelly, as far as Ospho (Phosphoric Acid) goes, you have to eliminate as much of the rust as you can, if you apply it to well established rust like on your brake booster it will never get down to bottom of the corrosion. A bench mounted wire wheel or even some 60grit paper will break that crust on the rust and allow the Ospho to get down to the bottom. The white powder won't show up for a couple of days until it has dried completely and your right, paint will never stick to that, it must be washed off. Getting rid of as much rust as possible is always the best method, Ospho is better than nothing but it won't penetrate heavy rust.
  15. grannyknot
    Actually I suggested blasting because you had already done the bottom, I had my Z dipped, the shell and the hood. If I were to do it again I would have done as much as I could of the body work and rust patching BEFORE the dip. The car was sprayed with a water soluble rust inhibitor immediately after the dip which is good for a week maybe two then it starts to rust so you have to be fast. I used the Eastwood inner frame spray to coat all of the areas you can't see or get to then 2 part epoxy primmer for the rest of the car. These pics were taken hours after it came out of the neutralizing tank.
  16. grannyknot
    Get it sand blasted while it is still solid.
  17. grannyknot
    Okay, I'm hooked now, those guys are some talented fabricators. ditto, I would watch it in real time with no music and no fast forwards, just the work.
  18. grannyknot
    I have done a rotisserie using 2 engines stands twice now for Z's, for a car with no front glass or dash the perfect balance is level with the back bumper mounting points and about 5-6" above the front bumper mounting points. With your glass and dash in then you would need to bring the pivot point up some more from that, how much...I couldn't say. To have the car flip 180* you have to be able to clear the front support wheels of the engine stands which means you would have to cut the main uprights of the engine stands and weld in a piece to give you more height, but the higher it gets the more unstable it becomes. When I did it the car rotated to a bit less then 90* which was good enough for me. A completely stripped early 240z weighs about 550lbs.
  19. grannyknot
    The relief valve is definitely needed, unfiltered oil is better than no oil at all.
  20. grannyknot
    Is that heating duct sheet metal
  21. grannyknot
    Sounds like you are going to have open it back up check your work.
  22. grannyknot
    Build it, strip it, dip it, reassemble. Exactly what I just did to my Z, About a year and a half of actual work, I don't think I would want to put in all of the work that a swap takes without knowing that the car was solid and all of the rust had been addressed. 800hp, holy shite! Really plan out your structural additions, if you hook up good with that kind of power you could put a permanent twist in that old tin can .
  23. grannyknot
    An 8 ball or cue ball was popular when I was growing up, maybe a golf ball is more appropriate these days I'll bet there is a market for that idea.
  24. grannyknot
    Could also be that the motor is fine and the wiper arm linkage has corroded up and is presenting too much load for the motor. While you have the motor out try moving the linkage by hand.
  25. grannyknot
    Maybe you will be the first guy to try it.
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