winstonusmc

The L26 is the old motor that I am using to mock up the setup for the sensor. I have already tried to put the pulley on my L28 thats in my car with the same issue. The last post answered my question though.

The middle of the pulley is thicker when you compare them side by side, probably to make room fro the trigger wheel bolts in the center. Its way thicker than the L26 pulley that came off the motor its currently residing on. I will snap a photo of it on monday. All in all, its thicker than both the L28ET pulley thats on the car now with A/C and the L26 pulley.

Maybe its because I bought it used. I really ran it just as a gap filler till I got a more modern tach anyway. It worked for a couple days and crapped out. I was going to go with the standard 5" autometer tach and speedo, but that would have been a $500 combo. I got the Maxima cluster, which the tach is directly compatible with the MS3X tach circuit and the speedo is running a Q45 speedo sensor which comes with the correct gearing for the 3.54 gears and the output from my speedo feeds the N2O input on MS3X. Not bad for about 100 in hardware. The needles are rock solid a decently accurately, with about a 2% error on both. And another key feature is the backlighting, which is what I hate the most about stock gauges is the lighting. So yes, the stock tach can work, just with some extra hardware.

Searched a little couldnt come up with much. I am about to install an 81 L28ET crank pulley to use the trigger wheel for my MS3. I tried to install it on my spare motor an noticed that the crank bolt from the 82 L28 is shorter. Where are these longer bolts available from? The crank is way down in the pulley so far no threads engage on the bolt. I assume its deeper to make more room for the trigger wheel.

I tried to use an MSD tach driver with limited success. I eventually modified a 95 Maxima tach to work with the dash and I love it. Just need the later speedo with the digital odo. I ran carbs for a little on my setup to get things worked out with the trigger and coils. I just used the MAP sensor for load. When I dropped the l28et, I just added more wires for injectors and temp sensors, easy!

I used accel pump setting before I switched to MAF, now I use nothing. I found this to be the easiest to mess with.

it probably missing the components on the board. I am sure it wouldnt be too much more to have them just fully build the V3.0 board for you. If your on a super tight budget, you could learn to solder yourself and buil it. I built mine, wasnt too difficult. Soldering a circuit board isnt too hard, just buy an iron at the heat level for circuit boards and thinner solder. I was surprised what an MS1 costs in a kit ~160. I put together an MS3/MS3X for 450.

What are you using, the diy wheel? I use that and have it set at 12-1 crank speed.

If you used a crank sensor and a cam trigger, you wouldnt have to everytime. The cam trigger will set the phase and the missing tooth on the crank will set the actual timing. As long as the cam trigger was always before the missing tooth after all adjusting of said cam gear.

Or he could cruise over to the Megasquirt section of the Engine Components forums and get better answers. And for all those who don't know, the "optical" option on the MS is to isolate a signal from the coil in Fuel Only mode. Really has nothing to do with actual sensors. All hall and VR sensors go through the "VR in" on the V3 board.

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_diyautotune_nissan_trigger_discs.htm

Build the circuit on the V3 board as VR.

Looks to be close. Whats your #1 tooth angle with your timing spot on? Mine changed with this firmware upgrade. What firmware are you running? When I uploaded the new firmware, my #1 angle changed. I noticed in the previous posts that you dont know the #1 angle is. Make sure you set that with a timing light. Dont go off of someone elses tune, then it doesnt matter where yor distributer is set. Timing lights arent expensive and a must for a megasquirt owner.

I upgraded to the Z31 wiring on my disributer. It uses a much easier to work with plug and is a familier color code when it comes to which trigger is which.

It will only work as the cam sensor if it has one trigger. I would assume it has six to fire each plug, which would give no reference in cam phase. I am not familiar enough with the VR distributer, but maybe you could alter the triggers inside to give you one trigger.

Yeah, that second one has braided shielding, which will be easier to attach a wire to. The foil wrapped shielding is pretty week and breaks easily in automotive setups.

Quick search http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1463/Shielded-Cable/ 39 cents a foot for 3 strand. Ground can be extrnal. If I look harder I might be able to find 4 wire. This was a search for "shielded automotive wire" it was the first result.

I have wrapped foil around the extension and put shrink wrap around it. That is almost whats around some shield wire anyway. Just make sure it overlaps the original shield.

I hate being that guy that gives the ever ashole answer of "search", but I have a link instead. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34536-megasquirt-map-information-sharing-all-code-versions/ although it isnt exactly what you may need, you can use the Maps to build what you may need. With Megasquirt, you really cant just copy someones tune as there are so many different setups that each tune would be unique to each engine. In my experience, just twke the fuel and ignition maps and "safen" them up a bit by richening and retarding. Then get your triggering and sensors all sqared away.

My car starts at about 12.5AFR at 70 and linearly Richens to stoic at 160. My engine has and will always run stoic at idle. It idles smooth at 15btdc timing.

You could put MS3 on the L28ET without changing any sensors. The big "but" here is the sensors have room for improvement to make the engine run more power with better economy. Let's start with the sensors: MAF- Sure you could keep the stock one and get it to work with MS3. I prefer a MAF, I run a Z32 300zx MAF and I love the drivability. Or you can do MAP, just use the onboard unit on the 3.0 board until you know more about megasquirt to want a different one. Head temp sensor - I use it and it works great. I can post up what I use for calibration if you want. TPS - this is really something that needs to be replaced for a MAP based system. Accel enrichment won't work on the stock switch, but a unit out of a newer 240sx can be used. A MAF system doesn't necessarily need a cell enrichment. Know sensor - off the shelf, the MS can't read it. The knock module for MS uses a different type of unit, so the stock unit will be unused. Distributer - it is fine for the stock coil and igniter. You will just have to modify the 3.0 board with the appropriate pull-up resistor. If you want to go more wild, then an aftermarket trigger wheel will be needed for coil-on-plug or external coil packs. Its available through DIY Autotune. Injectors - The stock injectors are low impedance so a resister will have to be wired in. If you are staying with batch fire, which is all you can do with the unmodified distributor, the the 3.0 board can handle the injectors without a resistor. If you use an MS3X to run the injectors, a resistor pack will be needed. I use a Nissan version, available through various 6cyl Nissans. I have also used Honda units as well, and they have a pretty spiffy heatsink on them. Air Intake Temp - This is needed if you plan on a MAP based system. I mounted mine in the aux injector hole, just drilled and tapped. I used a Chrysler 420a sensor from a Neon or Eclipse. I can also post that calibration too. Idle control - I don't have any, but some use Bosch units with success.

That's way too much timing as well. Are planning on boosting 28psi? The load in your ignition map is not very linear. Go to the map sharing thread in the FAQ and look at the ignition maps. I will post mine up in a little bit. I concur with what AkRev said, you can't just copy a tune. But that tune I have questions on the source engine as well. I did Copy too, but I used the stock ROMs from a Nissan ECU to give me a starting point with ignition and AFR. Hey, Nissan engineers know way more than me, even 30 years ago.

What are your AFRs and timing at full boost? How does the car feel?

I used linkage in the beginning. An L28et is linkage anyway. You may have to mix and match depending on your current setup.

I used 1/4 inch NPT. Yes, I know you said that you have a metric tap, but NPT barbed fittings are easier to get ahold of. I used a barbed fitting for the in and got the AN-6 to NPT fitting for the return. NPT taps are cheap and available at almost any hardware store.