Leon

Picked up the goods this morning. Rebello re-cut the seats, installed new valves+guides+seals, and did a street port. Dave mentioned that this casting was better than most so minimal intake port cleanup was necessary. Intake valves are Supertech, with an undercut valve stem for slightly less restriction. The exhaust ports, on the other hand, were pretty worked over... Dave also hogged the crap out of the TWM manifold which he said didn't line up very well with the ports. I had carb-matched it previously but he finished the job! The manifold is pinned to the head for alignment, you can barely tell where the manifold ends and the port starts. The cut-out for the injectors kind-of gives it away. Hoping to find time after work next week to piece it together!

Very ingenuitive! I'll think about doing something like that, thanks.

Looking good! Where did you get that cam gear?

Long-story-short, the head is finally done and I will be picking it up on Saturday. Dave also port-matched the intake and pinned it to the head. He doesn't use gaskets on pinned manifolds so I'm considering what I'd like to do here. I can goop it and slap on the manifolds but that would suck to clean up upon the next removal (seems to happen more often than I'd like). Otherwise, I can port-match the gasket, drill holes for the pins, and use the gasket. Hoping to begin reassembly this weekend!

Is the ECU throwing any DTCs?

Ha, Damian Harty is my coworker.

That's the hope, good luck!

The "fellow" you spoke with was probably Ron Iskenderian. I run that same cam in my flat-top L28 (Isky L6 grind). I took measurements and documented them in my build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111062-leons-other-260z/

Use lots of heat, it'll do the trick.

I'd look into your engine mounts and crossmember mounting points.

I was about to recommend them as well.

If you need it perfect, reseal the carbs, that's your issue. Nice job finding it. Your gut feeling is correct, venturi size doesn't affect the idle circuit.

Probably but if it's street driven, you'll spend a lot of time below 1/3 throttle. If it drives fine, don't worry about it.

I set mine more-or-less equal. Seems like your carbs have seen better days and maybe have a seal going out or a bent throttle shaft. It'll make the engine a bit more finicky at idle and low-load, depends on how concerned you are with performance under those conditions. I take it these are older DCOEs without the air bypass screws?

Or just install a good crossmember...?

Agreed 100%. Good for him that he has the ability to turn down work that he doesn't WANT to do. I'd do the same if I were running a business.

Good to hear.

My 2mm shaved P90 gave me nearly 11:1 compression on a .020" over L28 with stock head gasket.

I'm with Steve. This is nothing a shaved P79/P90 couldn't handle. The list is a very basic L-series setup, nothing that hasn't been done before. If we're talking a 400hp, 9000RPM, 14:1 compression motor then it's a different story. And in that case, if you gotta ask...

I think the problem lies in the premise: WHY exactly are you looking to weld the chambers up?

Austin, Works Motorsports does UpRev/Osiris tuning, FYI. You can get a modified harness and flashed ECU as TJ mentions and then bring it to Works for a final tune once the car is ready.

Great job, looking forward to seeing some photos and video! Very cool and unique swap.

The 260Z center valence has different mounting tabs and does not bolt onto a 240Z. I believe the side valence pieces do cross over.

Sounds like a tune issue, that pump should be plenty.

Good find! Let us know how it goes once the rest of the bits are calibrated.