Leon

Sounds like a rich condition more than oil fouling. Can you run the injectors and rail off of the manifold and compare the spray patterns? Vacuum does seem pretty low unless it's a radical cam. I get about 17-18 inHg at idle with a .540"/270° cam. It's all about the overlap and IVC point so you can also have poor vacuum if the cam is too far retarded. Doesn't necessarily explain a fouled plug but worth looking into.

Looking forward to hearing this run!

Will send PM when my donation status changes. You should've received my cell number if you look in your email notifications.

Sweet!

Well looking forward to finding out! Perhaps an Ecotec? I'll PM you my number.

Nice, glad you made it! Trekkor and crew always run a great event. A few of my coworkers went (the silver S2000 in the background of your photo and the other in a Model 3). I'll be running at Sonoma Drift for the first time this coming Wednesday, in case you or @stupid_fast plan to be there. Gonna guess that radiator is from an LSx vehicle.

I prefer more rubber but overall I dig the build!

I'm not saying that it wouldn't work, just that it's not good practice. I understand that your case is a particular one being it's a race car. The problem is that no matter how good your MAP signal is, not having a manifold reference for the FPR means that your VE table will be delivering differing amounts of fuel even if the VE table values are equal. Not having the reference makes tuning more difficult and reduces your resolution in high-vacuum areas of the VE table. Of course it can be done, as you have. I just disagree with your premise that "most EFI installs want constant pressure". Most EFI installs definitely have MAP-referenced FPRs for the reasons above, especially for street-driven cars as is the case for the OP. I'm including OEMs here as well, doesn't matter whether they're ITB or not.

What makes you say that? An FPR without vacuum reference will lead to a wonky fueling table at the very least. It's good practice to maintain a constant pressure difference between the fuel rail and intake manifold, it helps take a variable out of the fueling calculation.

Sweet, good work!

It depends on how you set up the return springs. There will already be a load from each carb/TB with an additional load if a tension spring is used as an auxiliary return. A torsion aux return spring would help reduce loading. Something else I just noticed, there are three throttle rod supports and the manifold is actually three individual pieces. It's held together via a bolt-in support. The position of that middle (redundant) throttle rod boss is going to be very hard to control and will likely lead to throttle rod bind, which will then make for a sticky return to idle and require heavy return springs thereby putting more stress on that cantilevered boss. You'd be better off having the manifold be one piece and consider removing the redundant throttle rod support. Better late than never I suppose, I'm curious if this project ever got past the design phase!

Sounds like fun!

Well shit! Hope you can get it sorted before the 14th. I'm not sure an F22C1 would fit the character of the car well but to each his own. VQ is a cool swap and the LSx is a given.

Nice, we'll see if I can make it. I'm already planning to run the road course with NASA the weekend before so the wife will take some extra convincing if I'm going to make it happen.

Nice, the Trackmasters guys always put on a good event. I've been wanting to take my Z out to one but I need to sort some running issues which is probably just a clogged fuel filter...

In my experience, there is a ton of variability in the body/chassis components, including 40+ years of wear and tear. My old 260Z aligned perfectly and that was a car that had been salvaged due to a rear impact. I had to mill slots into the transverse link mounts on this current car to get the toe even. Swapping to different strut housings evened out the camber.

I would never swap out an N54 over an LS. That's one of the worst motors BMW has made, given its durability record.

Welcome, fellow Bay Area Z owner. I don't see why not

Just take the free-play out of the pedal and give it a bit more. It doesn't take much. You'll know you did it right when you pop the line and it doesn't start dripping.

I run a stock 225mm clutch on a 10lb Fidanza on an L28 that makes 195whp without any issue, it's the perfect combo of rev-happy but completely streetable. It's not the clutch, if it was installed correctly. There are tons of posts on checking your clutch stack/release bearing height. First thing I'd do is climb under the car and check if there's free-play at the clutch fork. You don't want it pre-loading the release bearing. Also, no amount of boost pressure is going to keep the throttle plate open, the forces acting on the butterfly are equal and opposite.

My previous struts had the brake line bracket cut so it could be bent out of the way and the brake line could be extracted without disconnecting it. I don't recall exactly but I think my lines are just hanging now that I've sectioned the struts, perhaps I should revisit that...

Also, why do you need to disconnect brake lines? Why not disconnect the calipers and hang them on bungee cords?

Use a pedal depressor and slightly depress the pedal. It only needs to be pressed enough to cover the reservoir ports. You'll lose a few drops plus whatever's in your caliper. Disconnect your battery so your brake lights don't drain it.

I spy Ben's sweet Z build. Looking forward to watching the film, if not live then a reply.

The dual-master non-assist setup in my race car has far better feel than any assisted brake setup. A light pedal is harder to modulate, in my experience.