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Looks like a good trip to the land of the rising sun. Seems like most of the coolest models (from all overseas manufacturers) are never exported to the U.S.

Sounds like you have considered most of the readily available options. Bilstein. Wow, 250 euros per shock?? That's a bummer. They are available from numerous sources for roughly half that in the U.S. Konis. Yes, the reds should be fine with the lowering springs you are considering. I only see the reds for sale occasionally as "Used condition" or "New old stock", but you may have more luck finding them in Europe. (Hint: If you can not locate them for the 280Z, the Koni Reds specified for the early Nissan Sentras can be made to fit our struts with minimal work.) The Koni Yellows would be a good match for your suspension if you are using spring rates in the 250 - 400 ft-lb range. There are several models that can be made to work with the 280 strut housings; I am most familiar with 8641-1142 and 8610-1437RACE (both are single-adjustable). Koni 8611-1259 are double-adjustable. One of the common challenges with using Konis is getting the correct gland nut for the 280Z strut tube -- many guys will fabricate their own from OEM-style gland nuts (this is what I've done) and others are successful at sourcing genuine Koni gland nuts sized for the S30 struts. Have you seen all the threads on these topics? Looks like you've seen some of them; but perhaps not all. Here are just a few that may be helpful: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118825-koni-86108611/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/23504-coilovers-illuminas-vs-konis-spring-rates-please-help/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/28510-koni-shock-valving/

I have no personal experience with Stagg shocks, but most of the reviews I've read from HybridZ members (and other forums) seem to be favorable for the most part. Certainly is hard to beat the price. Another option to consider are Tokico Blues....they still seem to be available for cheap. I've seen $100 per pair, with free shipping, here in the U.S. May not be helpful for you in Finland, but might be worth looking into. I've used both Tokico Blues and Illuminas with stffer/shorter springs with very good results. Tokico product quality has had issues in the last few years, so keep that in mind. Finally, have you considered Bilsteins? Obviously high quality, readily available, and reasonably priced. The old part number is P30-0032; the new part number is 34-184530. They are made for the VW Rabbit, but fit nicely in the S30 strut housings (with spacers) and can easily handle lowered suspensions and stiffer springing. This may be your best bet for availability in Europe. I, along with many others, are using the Bilsteins in coilover applications and they work great for high-performance street driving or competition applications. If I'm feeling rich some day, I'll spring for Koni yellows, but the Bilsteins work great in the meantime and are very affordable.

Blobber, if you're planning to use Vogtland springs, have you considered using Stagg shocks? They're often sold together in a set, and I believe they have distributors in Germany.

SOLD. Thread can deleted, if so desired.

Nice progress! Looks like you're really making quick work of it. Keep the updates, and pictures, coming!

Yes, that would certainly work for you on a mild tune....GM has used single exhaust that size on many of their V8 applications over the years. If if you wanted to build a little margin into the system for possible future upgrades (e.g. bigger cam, carb, etc), you could use 3" for the single pipe after the Y. This is what I'm running for my current exhaust with a mild Lunati cam and Holley 600. My two cents, FWIW.

Yeah.....the only way I'm aware for that is to use lengths of PVC pipe off the trans and the diff (pipe needs to be stiff enough to prevent bending or drooping under its own weight). Take measurements and calculate the side-to-side angle with geometry. As you already noted, that angle needs to be combined with the vertical angle to derive your compound angle. Good article here on that topic: http://www.ocdriveshaft.com/ShaftFacts/DrivelineVibration.aspx

There are unfortunately not nearly as many body kits and body styling parts for the S130 as there are for the S30. I am not aware of anyone that produces a rocket-bunny style kit for the 130. (Your car being a 2+2 may limit your choices even further.) Retro-Spec is one of the few vendors that offers some parts for the ZX: https://retro-spec.myshopify.com/collections/datsun-280zx

Yes, completely feasible. And quite honestly, I think 1/8" would be overkill. IIRC, the entire shell is produced mostly with 16 and 18 gauge sheet (someone please chime in if I'm misstating). For pictures of the mods described by Neverdone, check out Jon Mortensen's build. Several people have built tube front ends, but Jon's car is the only one that comes to mind at the moment. Folks have done all kinds of front end and frame mods to relocate the radiator and accommodate larger radiators, intercoolers, etc.

There's a nifty app for your smart phone called "Tremec Tool Box"....includes a driveline angle finder that's quite accurate. Good luck with your fixes.

As you obviously are already aware, the 700-R4 is a big case to fit in the trans tunnel.....what mounting position/mounting kit are you using for the motor? Also, what differential are you using?

You are correct on all counts. I haven't seen any produced anytime recently. They will occasionally pop up for sale in used condition, but they are becoming extremely hard to find. Apparently, they are a bit more readily available in Japan than elsewhere....but not cheap. Some guys have fabricated their own custom hatches, which may account for the differences in style that you noted. I'm fairly certain that molds still exist, so you might be able to have someone create a single hatch for you from a mold. Check out the discussion threads on ClassicZCar.com, and you might get some useful leads. I personally like the look of the Pantera hatch, but not everyone does, as you've already noticed. Whatever you decide to do, good luck with it.

Nice car, nifty seats....GLWS.

Not my ad, but a pretty good deal. Wish this had come up two years ago, before I bought my rust-bucket special. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/359481901480997 (Admins: if this is the wrong sub-forum to post this in, please feel free to delete and/or move. Thanks.)

Holiday bump -- $25 plus shipping.

The main reason I brought up the FB group is because so many folks there are doing reverse headers for turbo installations. Good luck with it.

Are you asking WRT NA (i.e. non-turbo) applications? Also, are you on any of the FB forums? There's a good one for V8 Z's, with guys doing insane swaps and custom fab...."V8 S30 Owners Group".

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/5-lug-front-hubs-datsun-260z-and-280z

If there's enough thread to thread on two nuts, you tighten them together, then wrench on the inner nut to remove the stud. Otherwise, vise grips is probably the best non-welding solution, as suggested by the others. The

If you're on FB, Harold Burroughs has one for sale on "Datsun Parts and Needs".....don't recall if it's for a Series 1. https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheZGang/?multi_permalinks=1934760669892395&notif_id=1543455023197491&notif_t=group_highlights

Here's another interesting option for LED headlights....anyone using these? Seems like a good price, and Silvermine is known for quality products. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-280z/body-parts/240z-260z-280z-led-headlight-low-beam-hi-beam-driving-light-blinker-sae-dot-compliant

Here's another couple links you might like....there's some parts interchangeability between S130s and 510's, particularly front suspension IIRC. https://ratsun.net/ http://www.the510realm.com/

Those are pretty aggressive offsets you're considering; so to answer your question....yes, they would certainly "fill" the flares; and could quite possibly exceed the flares, depending on your tire choice. Tire selection will be a big consideration obviously. Low aspect tires on the thin side obviously require way less clearance from the fenders & flares than wider rubber. There are other factors that will play a role as well: how much is the suspension lowered, how much neg camber are you running, etc, etc. I would definitely invest in a wheel mockup tool to ensure your planned setup will work before dropping the change on new parts. You can even make your own measurement tool with some simple hardware. Finally, you are aware that some DRW use differing lug tapers on their lug nut holes, I'm assuming? Using the wrong tapered lug nut can be a major safety issue.

I've already PM'ed; and haven't heard back. I think he's waiting to see if anyone swoops in to scoop the whole lot before making decisions on individual parts. That's probably what I would do.