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Your diff may have been swapped by POs....just get under there and see what you've got, to know for sure. If you can't tell by inspection, take some pics and post them. We'll be able to tell you.

Just curious, Jon...is this the first time you've had this issue? Did the course favor right turns vs left turns? Hope the new valley cover and PCV do the trick for you.

Some good ideas for chassis stiffening/bracing here: https://imgur.com/a/R27sh Most of these are from HybridZ members.

Yes, good clean connections on all your electrical connectors is essential....usually the first step one would take when troubleshooting an issue. Glad you got it sorted.

Not entirely sure what you're asking; but if you're looking for full schematics of the factory wiring, you can download free FSMs from here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. You will likely be removing the fusible links from the system, and hopefully replacing them with technology from the 21st century. You can retain the original fuseblock, if you want, but I'd recommend inserting relays into the electrical system for running lights, headlights, starter, and any other high-load componentry you may have. Replacing the 45-year old wiring with new heavy gauge stuff will ensure full power to all your components. Ensuring that you have good grounds everywhere is essential....they get corroded and ineffective after a few decades. I don't know if this is what you were looking for, but good luck with it.

Did you happen to read the electrical chapter of the FSM, that I included in my earlier post? There's a section devoted to troubleshooting problems with all the gauges, including the temp gauge (page BE-46). The test you asked about would only work if all the wiring between the sender and the gauge is intact and functional. The most thorough way to troubleshoot an electrical circuit is to start at one end and systematically analyze each component of that circuit from end to end. The temp gauge circuit is defined on page BE-34. You may find that there are multiple issues within the circuit, but you'd never discover that if you were taking a haphazard approach. Not trying to be a dick here....really. But I'd recommend taking a more logical, systematic approach to troubleshooting problems; otherwise you're going to waste a lot of time and money. My two cents FWIW...

Unless a previous owner boogered it up, the wire should connect/disconnect via a clip-on electrical connector.....should be a bullet connector, but I guess it could be a blade connector. If it's not, do it right and crimp on the correct connector for the new sending unit. Hopefully the new parts will fix your issue.

Yes, it feeds directly into a coolant passage and will leak coolant when you remove it. As long as the engine is not running, the coolant will not be under pressure; so it's easy to plug temporarily while you're replacing the sender. You said "attach the yellow hose". I think you meant to say yellow wire?

May be able to help. Let me check my stash and get back to you.

If you only have a Chilton's manual for reference, that's part of the problem right there. Aftermarket service manuals are often questionable....sometimes they're useful, sometimes not. If you don't have the Factory Service Manual, you can download it for free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html. I've attached the Body Electrical chapter here to get you started; gauges start on page 31. Body Electrical.pdf

Yes, R180. If you're wanting to know the gear ratio, the only sure way is to pull the back cover -- the ratio is stamped into the ring gear.

This may not help with your immediate problem.....but once you get things working, you can physically test the accuracy of the temp sensing system with an IR gun....see if you're getting the same readings on your gauge as you get on the gun. If you determine that your sending unit is out of spec, a new one can be purchased here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7110

No offense....but yes, trying to run the engine with a wrench on the driveshaft is pretty dumb. If the nuts are frozen/rusted on, heat and penetrating oil are typically best way to free them up. It may take a couple days for the oil to soak in and free them up. Other than that, cutting or grinding them may be your only option. If you decide you need a new driveshaft, I have one from a 1973 4-speed in really nice shape for sale. Good luck with it.

Ah, now I understand. Is the motor/trans already pulled from the car, or are you trying to swap the transmission from below (i.e. leaving the engine in the car during the transmission swap)? Obviously could be tricky reaching some of the bolts if the latter. My personal preference is to always pull the engine; but if you have access to a lift and a good transmission jack, you may prefer trying it without pulling the engine. Do you have the FSM? If not, you can download free manuals for every year at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/

Why would you think there's a different process for separating tranny from a siezed motor vs a non-siezed motor?

Glad everything worked out for you; thx for the update. I have never had anything but good experiences with Bad Dog.

A link will not work, unless the user is a FB user and a member of the specific FB group. I posted your discussion thread here on his FB post, so don't be surprised if he gets in touch with you.

FYI -- there's a guy who just posted on the FB page "V8 s30 Owners Group" about a group buy for RKRs. Here's your chance to get those custom sizes you're wanting.

Yes, weight adds up very quickly. The later bumpers (and mounts) were close to 100 pounds vs the 240's sheet metal bumpers.

Joost, as I mentioned previously, it sounds like the starter solenoid is failing. The problems with the lights are separate issues, and will need to be diagnosed separately. A systematic analysis of each circuit end-to-end is the surest, most thorough approach to trouble-shooting electrical problems. The FSM is invaluable throughout this process.

No, the ignition relay and the starter solenoid are two separate units. The ignition relay is on the relay panel in the passenger footwell. It's discussed in the first chapter of the Body Electrical section of the FSM. The starter solenoid is the small cylinder adjacent to the starter motor -- it performs a similar function as a relay, in that it responds to a small signal and passes on a large current to the starter motor. If you hear a clicking noise from the engine compartment when you turn the key to "Start" but the starter does not engage, that can be a symptom of a bad solenoid.

Do you know if they're back up and running? Last time I checked (which was a while ago), they were a long way from 100%. The times I have bought parts from them, they always had outstanding customer support.

Ok, sounds like you have a good ignition switch and functioning starter.....so the next step could be to test if you are getting 12V to your starter solenoid when the key is in the "Start" position on your ignition switch. If yes, then either the solenoid is failing or there is a problem with the connection between the solenoid and the starter motor. If no, you probably have a breakdown in the wiring harness between your ignition switch and the solenoid. Good luck with it. Electrical gremlins can be very frustrating, but usually readily resolved with a logical, systematic approach.

Your headlights and running lights should power on irrespective of the ignition switch position (I.e. they should power on even with the ignition completely off). It sounds like you believe your combo switch is working properly; and if that's the case, have you tested the circuitry to ensure you have 12V going into the combo switch on the headlight circuit?

These guys have been really good in the past. I believe they went through some changes in recent years, but are in the process of rebuilding the business and their inventory. Website not currently active, so you would need to call. http://www.zspecialties.com/