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That shell is probably nicer than the day it rolled off the production line....very nice work! (Actually WAY nicer, with all the additional rust protection you've incorporated.)

Good point on the gland nuts. I've not been able to find original Bilstein gland nuts for either 240 or 280 strut tubes, so I've always machined my own out of stock gland nuts (or Tokicos). I'm using the P30-0032s on all four corners.

Also, be advised that if you do decide to replace the stock strut isolators with camber plates, you will not be able to take advantage of the camber adjustment unless you replace the stock-sized springs with smaller diameter springs and top hats as well. The stock springs and top hats interfere with the inner portion of the strut towers and severely limit camber adjustment. (You can achieve roughly the same amount of neg camber by simply slotting the three holes on the strut tower to allow a small inward adjustment of the strut assembly. 2.5" diameter springs are probably one of the most common ID spring used for adjustable coilovers on the S30, but there are certainly many other options to choose from.

You're talking about sectioning the front strut tube to retain suspension travel while lowering the car and then using bump steer spacers to improve front lower control arm geometry. That's extremely common practice with the S30 suspension. What springs and shocks are you considering using? The various options have been discussed liberally in the Brakes/Suspension sub-forum and the FAQs. It seems like you're wanting to retain the stock'ish springs....but that's a very sub-optimum solution for a track car, and I doubt you'd be happy with the results. If I understand your proposed rear suspension mods correctly, that is largely uncharted territory, and I can't really say that I see the benefits. There are aftermarket adjustable rear LCAs available, or you can fabricate your own, in order to dial-in the desired rear toe geometry. And you can achieve decent negative camber at the rear with even modest lowering. Again, it is a common practice to section/shorten the rear strut tube to retain suspension travel when lowering; and adjustable coilovers are the preferred setup for track use. Your basic premise that the factory suspension offers the best overall solution is just not correct. In fact, the single downtube/single control arm is an outdated and limiting design; and typically requires a fair bit of modification to achieve the types of geometric camber and caster desired for track use, as well as stiffer springing and damping. Hope this info helps, welcome to the forum and good luck with your build. (And Happy New Year!)

ballet, you'll probably get more response if you post your question in the "Other V8Z" sub-forum: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/46-other-v8z-tech-board/

Looks like a good trip to the land of the rising sun. Seems like most of the coolest models (from all overseas manufacturers) are never exported to the U.S.

Sounds like you have considered most of the readily available options. Bilstein. Wow, 250 euros per shock?? That's a bummer. They are available from numerous sources for roughly half that in the U.S. Konis. Yes, the reds should be fine with the lowering springs you are considering. I only see the reds for sale occasionally as "Used condition" or "New old stock", but you may have more luck finding them in Europe. (Hint: If you can not locate them for the 280Z, the Koni Reds specified for the early Nissan Sentras can be made to fit our struts with minimal work.) The Koni Yellows would be a good match for your suspension if you are using spring rates in the 250 - 400 ft-lb range. There are several models that can be made to work with the 280 strut housings; I am most familiar with 8641-1142 and 8610-1437RACE (both are single-adjustable). Koni 8611-1259 are double-adjustable. One of the common challenges with using Konis is getting the correct gland nut for the 280Z strut tube -- many guys will fabricate their own from OEM-style gland nuts (this is what I've done) and others are successful at sourcing genuine Koni gland nuts sized for the S30 struts. Have you seen all the threads on these topics? Looks like you've seen some of them; but perhaps not all. Here are just a few that may be helpful: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118825-koni-86108611/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/23504-coilovers-illuminas-vs-konis-spring-rates-please-help/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/28510-koni-shock-valving/

I have no personal experience with Stagg shocks, but most of the reviews I've read from HybridZ members (and other forums) seem to be favorable for the most part. Certainly is hard to beat the price. Another option to consider are Tokico Blues....they still seem to be available for cheap. I've seen $100 per pair, with free shipping, here in the U.S. May not be helpful for you in Finland, but might be worth looking into. I've used both Tokico Blues and Illuminas with stffer/shorter springs with very good results. Tokico product quality has had issues in the last few years, so keep that in mind. Finally, have you considered Bilsteins? Obviously high quality, readily available, and reasonably priced. The old part number is P30-0032; the new part number is 34-184530. They are made for the VW Rabbit, but fit nicely in the S30 strut housings (with spacers) and can easily handle lowered suspensions and stiffer springing. This may be your best bet for availability in Europe. I, along with many others, are using the Bilsteins in coilover applications and they work great for high-performance street driving or competition applications. If I'm feeling rich some day, I'll spring for Koni yellows, but the Bilsteins work great in the meantime and are very affordable.

Blobber, if you're planning to use Vogtland springs, have you considered using Stagg shocks? They're often sold together in a set, and I believe they have distributors in Germany.

SOLD. Thread can deleted, if so desired.

Nice progress! Looks like you're really making quick work of it. Keep the updates, and pictures, coming!

Yes, that would certainly work for you on a mild tune....GM has used single exhaust that size on many of their V8 applications over the years. If if you wanted to build a little margin into the system for possible future upgrades (e.g. bigger cam, carb, etc), you could use 3" for the single pipe after the Y. This is what I'm running for my current exhaust with a mild Lunati cam and Holley 600. My two cents, FWIW.

Yeah.....the only way I'm aware for that is to use lengths of PVC pipe off the trans and the diff (pipe needs to be stiff enough to prevent bending or drooping under its own weight). Take measurements and calculate the side-to-side angle with geometry. As you already noted, that angle needs to be combined with the vertical angle to derive your compound angle. Good article here on that topic: http://www.ocdriveshaft.com/ShaftFacts/DrivelineVibration.aspx

There are unfortunately not nearly as many body kits and body styling parts for the S130 as there are for the S30. I am not aware of anyone that produces a rocket-bunny style kit for the 130. (Your car being a 2+2 may limit your choices even further.) Retro-Spec is one of the few vendors that offers some parts for the ZX: https://retro-spec.myshopify.com/collections/datsun-280zx

Yes, completely feasible. And quite honestly, I think 1/8" would be overkill. IIRC, the entire shell is produced mostly with 16 and 18 gauge sheet (someone please chime in if I'm misstating). For pictures of the mods described by Neverdone, check out Jon Mortensen's build. Several people have built tube front ends, but Jon's car is the only one that comes to mind at the moment. Folks have done all kinds of front end and frame mods to relocate the radiator and accommodate larger radiators, intercoolers, etc.

There's a nifty app for your smart phone called "Tremec Tool Box"....includes a driveline angle finder that's quite accurate. Good luck with your fixes.

As you obviously are already aware, the 700-R4 is a big case to fit in the trans tunnel.....what mounting position/mounting kit are you using for the motor? Also, what differential are you using?

You are correct on all counts. I haven't seen any produced anytime recently. They will occasionally pop up for sale in used condition, but they are becoming extremely hard to find. Apparently, they are a bit more readily available in Japan than elsewhere....but not cheap. Some guys have fabricated their own custom hatches, which may account for the differences in style that you noted. I'm fairly certain that molds still exist, so you might be able to have someone create a single hatch for you from a mold. Check out the discussion threads on ClassicZCar.com, and you might get some useful leads. I personally like the look of the Pantera hatch, but not everyone does, as you've already noticed. Whatever you decide to do, good luck with it.

Nice car, nifty seats....GLWS.

Not my ad, but a pretty good deal. Wish this had come up two years ago, before I bought my rust-bucket special. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/359481901480997 (Admins: if this is the wrong sub-forum to post this in, please feel free to delete and/or move. Thanks.)

Holiday bump -- $25 plus shipping.

The main reason I brought up the FB group is because so many folks there are doing reverse headers for turbo installations. Good luck with it.

Are you asking WRT NA (i.e. non-turbo) applications? Also, are you on any of the FB forums? There's a good one for V8 Z's, with guys doing insane swaps and custom fab...."V8 S30 Owners Group".

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/5-lug-front-hubs-datsun-260z-and-280z

If there's enough thread to thread on two nuts, you tighten them together, then wrench on the inner nut to remove the stud. Otherwise, vise grips is probably the best non-welding solution, as suggested by the others. The