stony

These Earl's inline fuel filters provide maximum protection for fuel systems. They're available in your choice of a screen filter or a sintered bronze element. Either unit can be easily disassembled for inspection and cleaning. The filter housings are available with size -6 AN, -8 AN, or hose barb ends (bronze element only) for use with Earl's high performance fuel line and fittings. They have a fuel flow of 4 to 5 gpm and come in a nice blue anodized finish. Thats not good for a fuel injected motor!!! this is what you want.... Mount one of these Summit® inline billet fuel filters and forget about dirt and grunge getting into your high performance fuel system. These filters flow 150 gph and can handle up to 1,000 hp. The lightweight 6061 aluminum filters feature a blue anodized finish, and are available with a 10 micron cellulose element or a 100 micron stainless pleated element.

Are you using fuel injection? if so what type of filter is that you have connected to the pump. I had one that looked exactly the same and it was carb filter and really restricted flow. just something to look at

I was considering this for a while before i went the route i did. should be bullet proof.

I know cheftrd has talked about all your questions before but i cant remember where. I would suggest search for all the posts he has made in the rb forum and read through them. it may take some time but everyone of them are very informative.

I had a miss issue with mine and it was the ignitor getting hot. If you get the miss try cooling down the ignitor box and see what happens. I had the wires extended and relocated the ignitor to the firewall and it fixed the problem

Bag maama jama

can you post pics of the flares you have???

ladder bars my 4 link car is almost done. I don't know much about tuning suspension but guys that do tell me the only thing i can do to keep the wheels down is add weight to the front.

That power is about right on. I was making 392RWHP with my first motor at 15 PSI (just above 1 Bar) on stock r32 turbos and stock gtr intercooler. I think slightly larger r34 turbos and a bigger intercooler is the difference. these motors are really bottled up in stock form. put a hi flow exhaust/filters add some fuel and boost and hold on.

HP engines (hi booste) have more blow by and therefore req one. and will start actually dripping oil out of those filters that everyone like to put on their valve covers. oil dripping on a hot exhaust is not good. I like the way it looks i'd be interested.

SNCOA at Gunter AFB montgomery.

In my z31 z32 brake mod i just used z31 rotors with z32 calipers worked great.

got some pics that gave me a woody today ;>

http://forums.hybridz.org/timeslips.php? on these forums he is ... and as far as being a street car by far he is the fastest and quickest

I could have saved it if i didst stay in it. no steering is what caused it. Initially when i saw is was not going in the right direction there was lots of room. AKRP has huge lanes compared to most tracks I have seen. But i was competing against a friend and you know how that goes win at all cost. You can hear in the video and see in the pics i stayed in it for quite along time after i hit the rail but common sense got to me eventually.

Now thats a daily driver/sleeper!!!

here are pics of from the camera mans view i almost hit Rt door got a crease and the rt rear 1/4 will need to be replaced. not too bad considering.

Finally got some good footage of the crash!!! well not that its good or nothing. you can really see the hard right turn it did during the wheel stand. Hindsight says as soon as i felt it going right i should have let out and turned away from the wall. but when i initially came down i had plenty of room to stay in it and steer. Didn't take into account the fact that when the front end came down the first time it bounced and i wasn't able to steer till it was 2 late. I had 2 choices. hit the rail with the front of the car or stay in it and try and bring it around. you can see the you can see the option i took http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v288/stony7/?action=view&current=ClintStoneham2008-08-31.flv

I read anyways!!!! I had my Vpro tuned on a dyno. Once we had everything figured out it literally only took 1 hour and less the 5 gals of fuel to get it to the point where we were comfortable on going out to the track. that's where we finished the tuning. in 5 runs we had dropped the ETs from 9.70s to 9.30s and gained 5 MPH. I love to tune. but i'm also cheap. I learned from experience that it may be expensive initially but doing a dyno tune then fine tuning at the track is the way to go. When do you stop???? as far as I'm concerned never.

Take it to a frame shop that can laser it. you don't want to dump money into a project to later find out it is bent in an area you didn't realize.

When i first put mine together I couldn't afford a good clutch. Someone told me a sr20 disc would work with the GTR pressure plate. i tried it and it did. they are little smaller in diameter but a little thicker but it worked for 2 till i turned the boost up and remembered i only had a stock clutch

So whats the rest of the car look like? looks outstanding do far.

Finally figured out how to resize the pics:icon56:

I think the rod that is connected to the clutch pedal is adjustable. adjust it. noting needs to be cut