NewZed

You might get lucky and pass with random adjustments and part replacements. Most people just end up totally lost. Even with carbs you have to know how many times you turned an adjustment screw. Numbers matter. Try the Fuel Injection Guidebook. 1980 version covers all years. You'll need a meter. Start with the coolant temperature sensor. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Good luck.

Seafoam is a can full of HC, with a little bit of rubbing alcohol added. And a ton of sales pitch, all in a neat looking can. You're in the common bind of trying to find a quick fix and ending up worse off with no easy way to get back to where you started, Keep track of where things started and what works. The details are important. Does "did that" mean putting the AFM back where it started or turning out the idle air screw, or both? Did you turn the screw out 1/2 turn or 5 turns? The EFI system requires some rigor and patience to get right but many people get it done.

C'mon, the shift key's not that much effort...

Put the tach back in. Take the condenser off of the coil. See what happens. A simple way to test the system at super-slow speed is to connect a wire to the coil negative, turn the key on, and tap the wire to ground. Every three taps should cause the injectors to click. Three sparks is one engine revolution. Might be a simple way to test variations. If you get injector clicks,maybe you're just firing bad gas. Too bad you're on a phone.

The coil negative circuit is an odd one. It connects the tach, the ECU, and the old ignition module. One wire, branched. I've had two cars, a 76 and a 78 that would not run without the tach installed, using the stock ignition modules. But, since I've installed a GM HEI module, the 76 will start and run without the circuit to the tach complete (removed the resistor and it started). But, the tachometer doesn't work right with the HEI module unless I have a capacitor on the coil negative terminal. Lots of cross-talk possibilities there. Did you disconnect the old ignition module under the dash? Maybe you didn't and you're getting enough anyway to break the coil circuit but not enough to trigger the ECU. You didn't say why you swapped harnesses. Year of car would be good too. Good luck.

Have you verified the ground circuit to the ECU connector for each injector? The 12 volts on each side is from the parallel power supply (someone on classciczcar explained that to me, Captain Obvious), but doesn't tell you that the ECU is controlling ground. Have you checked fuel pressure? Good that you've verified spark with starting fluid. Why did you change the harness? If the ECU is good, and it controls ground, and gets the Pin 1 signal, with fuel pressure the engine should run. Pin 1 is branched with the tach also. Does the tachometer work when it's on starting fluid? If it doesn't, you might not have a good Pin 1 signal. The ECU is sensitive to the signal quality.

Sorry, it's raining. And getting dark. There's no gap anyway, I checked later because it bothered me like yours bothers you. Mine were black. I seem to recall that one piece in the kit was from Ground Control but MSA might have sourced from various suppliers. They came with MSA part numbers, plastic wrapped, in a box. It was 2009. The kit was on sale.

Aren't there two sizes - 240Z and 280Z? Maybe you got 240Z. I don't know the brand of mine (MSA kit for a 280Z) but I had a gap on my 280Z. Smaller than yours though. I greased it up, installed it, torqued the bolts, and drove, and the gap closed. It's elastic and sees varying loads in use. It will adjust itself in use.

Put the AFM cog back where it was and turn out the idle air bypass screw instead. That's why it's there.

Must be more stringent in other counties. Too bad. You didn't say about the AFM adjustments. You also didn't distinguish between idle results and 2000 RPM results. What are the limits for the two tests, and what were the results for each one? Adjusting idle emissions is a completely different thing than adjusting throttle open emissions. Timing is advanced, if your vacuum advance hose is connected correctly and the distributor isn't screwed up, and the throttle position switch is different with the throttle open. You can get some pretty direct help if you add the details. Or you can go with the one time magic potion.

What are you adjusting here? Hopefully, not the vane spring. Since they only measure idle you just need to lean things out until you pass. You didn't mention timing either.

You'll get more looks if you call it an Engine Stopper bracket. And it's metal, with rubber nubs on it. Rubber Engine Mounts are available from an auto store, what you want isn't.

Never mind. This is an odd thread. Put the 280Z tab on and make a zero mark on the pulley.

Only you can see your own warning points. I have zero also. Maybe an unused artifact of the site software.

Posts #7 and #8 are the key posts in Leon's link.

I'd use it where it makes sense. There's no documentation that shows the groove is meant to hold the window edge (no offense to z240 but proper orientation seems to be a guess). Plus you get a softer landing if it lands on the edges. The sideways mount even looks like it fits the pedestal better. I have a piece of rubber hose mounted sideways on my 280Z. The window doesn't land in the center for it either. If I had the stock piece i'd mount it sideways also. It works.

Use CTRL F and "ignition" on this page - http://www.megamanual.com/MSFAQ.htm Here's a few samples - http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vb921.htm http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/TFI.htm http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

I just recalled that there's one more possibility, common to the Z's - output at idle tends to be low. So, depending on what the machine measures, it may have seen no voltage because the the measurement was made at idle speed. Today's cars have ECU's that bump up the idle RPM to make sure the battery stays fully charged, and the testing machines are designed for them. Our old Z cars don't have that feature. One more reason to get a meter and check for yourself. It's not that hard to do.

Your 1977 car probably has an external regulator, which could be a factor. Plus, if someone has messed with the gauges, the L wire may not be getting power. The parts store alternators are of generally poor quality. People have more problems with new replacements than iwth old Nissan parts. You'd be much better off to measure a few things on your current setup before replacing anything. And most of the guys at the parts stores that run those machines only know how to connect wires according to whatever instructions they have available. They don't really know if they're right or not. Many people have received erroneous test results at the local parts store. Find a multimeter and take a few measurements.

Yes, that means the engine is running from battery power alone. "No Voltage" is being produced by the alternator, either because the alternator doesn't have power to the L wire, or because it's bad.

If the fan's pulling itself in to the radiator you should be able to see it move while revving the engine with the hood open. If it's the engine moving, you won't see anything. Simple test, wear a face shield, or full-face helmet while experimenting.

Another thought is that it's not the engine moving, but the radiator. Never know. Might be more effective to stick a jack under the transmission tail and see if it can lift at all. That's what would be happening. Careful on jack pressure.

This logic seems backward or warped. Seems like you've decided that choked off air supply is the problem and are trying to force observations to fit that model, with the "reversion" (whatever that really means, especially at high air flow) and the above. Sometimes it's hard to do but you might try letting go of that idea and see if something else makes sense.

The transmission mount is the third, rear, "engine mount". Looks like it's broke.

There's an S, two D's, and an I attached to the periphery of the picture. You have to look at the other drawings to match the letters. The magnet valve is described a few pages away.