NewZed

It's described in the Factory Service Manual (actually it looks like they left it out for 1974. First year of electronic ignition. Try the 1976 FSM). I think that its function is to maintain a consistent gap at the pickup coil.

Surprised that it hasn't sold. Whitehead is incommunicado so that source is NLA. You might add the other axle if you have it, not sure why it's missing in the picture. Are they included? And a pinion shaft flange, although not as big a deal. Somebody doing a V8 swap might just build a new driveshaft and use the same pattern, instead of swapping flanges. classiczcars.com has a nice sale forum and gets more traffic, you might post there. No offense to hybridz.org, I'm sure that things will come back some day, but it's pretty slow now.

And to add a little bit more - it could be a turbo "engine" but without the turbo parts. The valve cover has a stamp on it like the Nissan replacement engines too, so that might be part of the mystery. If you want to dig deeper, get the numbers from the cylinder head. They're right between/below cylinders 1 and 2 plug holes. A turbo head would be P90. A 280Z head would be N42 or N47.

The bottom engine with the orange plug wires is definitely an NA engine. The top engine with the black wires might be a turbo block, it looks like it has the oil filter mount of a turbo engine. But it's a bad angle. I think I see an AFM on top but not sure. Here are some links to look at. You need better pictures of the top engine. Look at where the AFM is mounted and look for the J-pipe. The AFM is underneath on the turbo engine. It's on top and visible on NA. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-datsun-280zx-turbo-6/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1982-datsun-280zx-turbo-12/ J-pipe marked in green.

Sure, post the pictures. I know that some things are different in the UK, like the 260Z went on for a long time, but the turbo was not developed until 1981, I think. The Z body and the ZX body are completely different though, in both countries. And the turbo parts are obvious. Some people have tried to fool people with the ZX injector cooling fan, because it looks odd. But a turbo is obvious.

The turbo engine came out in 1981. So a 1978 car would not have a turbo engine. And the 280ZX came out in 1979. I think this is true even in the UK. A 280ZX turbo engine would have a lower CR than a 280Z NA engine, among other differences.

It is a vacuum operated device that pulls the throttle open a bit to raise idle speed when the AC compressor is working. Also called the fast idle actuator. If you don't have working AC you don't need it.

Are you talking about the top one or the bottom one? There are two types of the top one, one with two inlets and one with one inlet, depending on year of car. The top one is the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Yours looks like a 1976 FPR. The bottom one is the F.I.C.D.

You're right. That was in the back of my mind, the question has come up before, because on the 280Z's they run it through a relay. I kind of knew it was wrong when I posted it, should have held off. Not sure why they would change to constant power wires over the engine. But, apparently, they did, they show it twice. Doesn't make sense. Continue with the 20 questions... 1982 1978

Sorry, is that a question or a statement? Power should be off when the key is off.

Yes. The injectors have power when the key is on and they open when the circuit is grounded by the ECU. Both sides of the injector plugs will have power because it's a parallel circuit. Unless you measure with all six injectors unplugged.

FSM = Factory Service Manual. Meter = electrical multimeter. Must haves for working on any EFI car. EFI = electronic fuel injection. Good luck. It's difficult at the beginning but well worth the time. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Use-and-Choose-a-Multimeter/

If the engine runs there's a ground for the injectors. Use the FSM and a meter. You can't get far without doing basic electrical testing on the EFI systems. Download the FSM and the 1980 EFI guide. Use the Engine Fuel and Emissions chapter. The EFI harness has its own ground point. Test at the ECU connector. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

Compatibility with what? http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html

Check your grounds, in the EFI wiring harness and at the ECU. The injectors need current flow. Might be that you have only enough to run 5 injectors at idle, and the test light provides just enough extra current to get it to rev. Bad grounds = low current.

Did you grease the half-shaft u-joints while you had things apart. Easier but you can still do it while they're in the car. They'll last about forever if you keep them greased. Tighter, more precise, than aftermarket. There's a thin head screw that covers the Zerk hole.

It's small in the drawing, but this would be the part. It's factory. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/83

It's a damper for diff noise and vibration. Many people take them off.

There is no thermometer on a ZX.

I found a picture of some on the internet. The slot is right next the sheath and the side on the right in the picture snaps over the edge of the metal framework. Might need a thin blade and some lubrication to get it off. Don't break it. https://maseraticompound.com/products/datsun-280z-oem-climate-control-cable-anchor-clips

There is a metal clip that holds the cable sheath down. One end fits in to a small slot and the other snaps in to a different slot or over the edge of the assembly. Can't remember. Pop the clip up and remove it, then lift the sheath up to get the end of the cable out of the hole. In reverse it would be insert the cable end in to the hole, lay the cable and sheath flat, then insert the clip and clamp the sheath down. The clip is outlined in green here. I outlined the metal clip here.

It's from the Factory Service Manual, Engine Fuel chapter. You can download it from the ClassicZcars.com site. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

It might be the pipe to the air regulator heating block. The air regulator sits on an aluminum plate with coolant running through it. The plate gets hot and keeps the regulator closed. Probably hard to get to but all you need to do is replace the hoses. Here's a picture of the regulator. It has two large air hoses that connect on each side. The plate is underneath.

Where, exactly, is the interference? You're implying that it's close to the flange, just wondering if you have confirmed that, or assumed. The kit is new. All of the aftermarket guys say that their stuff works but there are many cases over the years where the customers are actually beta testers. The ZStore had problems with their new Koni shocks, even though said that they had tested them thoroughly. It's just how new product development goes. Their "engineer" might have only tried one set of wheels. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21l/24-5717