NewZed

Get a voltmeter and measure voltage at the plug to the back of the alternator. The T plug. They should both show 12 volts with the key on. Also make sure that plug is making good contact with the pins in the alternator. I had a plug that was loose and was not making contact. Had to recrimp it with a pair if pliers. Make sure that the charge wire to the lug on the starter is intact. It's the white wire that starts at the B terminal on the back of the alternator. And check your fusible links.

The 260Z carbs and manifolds should bolt right up to an L28. People do it all the time, especially when they have problems with EFI. Many L28's don't have the parts or holes in the head for a mechanical fuel pump though, but the 260Z has an electric pump anyway.

The rail and FPR don't have anything to do with the pump. Pump noise depends on how it's mounted and how powerful it is. Start your own pump thread and you can get a pretty good conversation going. This thread is Pallnet's vendor thread. Don't want to clutter it up.

Use the "Single Fuel Rail Fuel Injected" diagram here. Ignore the others, some aren't quite right. Leave the unused inlets on the FPR blocked. The supply is at one end of your rail and the FPR at the other. Tank-(prefilter maybe)- pump-filter-rail-FPR-tank. https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/in-line-diagrams/

That red loctite idea is good for a first try. High strength thread locker. Worst case the nut just comes off and you're left with more grippy threads. Probably pay about $8 for a tube of Loctite. Most of us try to go cheap with the tools at hand. And regret it.

I like the red loctite idea. Another option is JB Weld Steel-Stick. If you use either, stick a piece of plastic wrap over the nub, leaving the threads uncovered, so that you don't glue the nut to the head. And clean the threads of any lubricants. MEK or acetone preferred for cleaning. Filing flat is apparently personal preference, along with channel-locks vs vise-grips. Maybe based on hand strength, who knows. But if you squeeze on the threads they will deform and you'll get limited contact area. Then the pliers will probably slip. Clamp on solid steel flats and you'll get less slippage. In the end though, if you do strip threads off you'll end up filing flats. I just jumped ahead to where the neophyte will probably end up. You'll probably crush the threads, round off the end of the stub in to a cone shape, then wear it down in to a tiny useless mound. Unless you plan ahead and are very careful. Good luck.

A pair of vise grips might do it. File some flats on to the stub so that you can get a good grip. Position the vise grips in a good spot for grip and leverage and get them as tight as you can. If they start to slip at all when trying to turn the stub, stop. Don't destroy the stub. If you don't have the right type of vise grip take the time to go to the store and buy them. Some time and money now will save you a lot of aggravation. Preparing everything for the twist is key.

This guy put a diff together working with a reputable supplier. Might cost more but probably a better product. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/

Who rebuilt the engine? And has the 5 speed been rebuilt? Good luck.

Get the part number and Google it. Here's a link or you can just take yours out, the numbers are on the side. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Electrical/Electric-Unit-Switch/Section-1/280Z

The 78 system has a lot more parts and connections to get screwed up. You're starting in the right spot, the fusible links. Classiczcars.com has wiring diagrams and factory service manuals. They'll help a lot for troubleshooting, with a meter.

Did you actually check voltage at the pump? Or just assume that it had no power because it's not working? Om the 78's you can disconnect the oil pressure sender and the pump should get power when the key is on. Easier than trying to measure it while cranking. That will at least tell you if the pump circuit is complete.

You confirmed that the S terminal wire shows battery voltage? It's connected to the battery? If it doesn't the new 90 amp will do the same thing.

zhoob asks a good question, but your other thread says Z32 transmission. Are you using one of these, for the 6 speed Z33 trans? https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/collins-adapters-ls-engine-to-350z-370z-vq-6-speed-trans-adapter-plate-with-11-clutch-disc.html One possibility is that when you pull the lever down from 5th, nothing actually happens internally. It stays in 5th. So, does the speed change or RPM drop when you shift in to the mystery gear? Or do the RPM stay the same? And, of course, is there another slot, where R should be?

No offense. I broke your ad up in to its most basic elements just to get a feel for it. Break it up and put a price on each item and see if they all add up to $7000. Might be informative. The body and the parts to make a 280Z might go pretty quick if priced right, and they'll free up the most space.

Nissan has several adjustment procedures in the FSM that can conflict, then they don't have specific "readjust" instructions. The rear bearings are pretty simple, you're just clamping a spacer, the "distance piece", between two bearing inner races. Unless the distance piece is thought of as crushable, there is no adjustment possible. The parts are all supposed to be measured and fitted before installation, then torqued, and that's about all you can do. Are people confirming that their distance pieces are parallel on the ends, and the bearings are seating properly? A little tilt would put a lot of leverage on the shaft end. There are five surfaces that need to be parallel. Just some things to consider. Edit - one more thought. If it was mine I'd assemble the stack of two bearings, the distance piece, and the nut together outside of the hub as a quick check of specs. If it's close to right there won't be any gaps. If it's not you'll probably see something. Could be the threaded ends are cut off-axis, which would put the nut off.

Both of you should just post your contact information to see if it's the same. It is a business, not a private residence. And how long have you been waiting for a response. One month is not the same as one day. And post the actual torque value used, not "correct", and any details like if never-seize was used. Plus any other details, like maybe peening the lock nut crimp in with a sledge hammer. No reason not to speculate. That's what the forums are about. Joe doesn't need protection. The design elements shown are not very good, as far as stress risers are concerned. Kind of surprising. Does that hardness test take in to account the curvature of the shaft?

Probably the "reaction disc" in the booster. A common enough problem that it has an FAQ entry. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/

I'm not a real MOD. But thanks for the better writing. It looks so much better. This guy might know how to reach him. They live in the same area. Check the second post of this thread. There's a website link in his profile. http://forums.hybridz.org/profile/4498-zachary-ard/ https://store.acadianasportscars.com/ @Zachary Ard

There are other people selling fuel rails. If Pallnet is unreachable. Use Google. Doesn't seem like you're putting work in to it besides poorly written posts from your phone. Google...soooo much effort.... @pallnet

Changing the master cylinder changes the amount of force required at the pedal to achieve stopping power, and the distance the pedal travels. It's really about pedal feel, not performance, so it's more personal preference than "required". blu didn't really give enough info to answer his question. Post a link to the brakes. Not even sure who "z car garage" is.

There was a recent thread about damper bolts and red loctite that has some good facts in it. There's no lock washer. The keyway got worn because the damper was loose, not vice-versa. The key isn't meant to hold the damper. It's for locating it's rotational position. The fact that your first damper was loose is a sign that something's wrong, either damaged crank snout or the wrong parts So when you replaced one damper with another you just kept the same damage and/or the same wrong parts. Just with a different damper. It's a simple looking part with a lot of complex engineering behind it. You need to find the directions and follow them exactly. Good luck.

Just circling back. Lots of wrong here. "noticed balancer was loose so put a spare on". It's like you got super-lucky but didn't heed the warnings. You said the balancer "broke off". Is there a piece left? Or did it fall off and you were actually running with no belts? Should have at least since the charge light come on, besides the overheating. Not clear how bad this really was. Guessing that a piece broke off, allowing oil to leak past the seal, but the damper and pulley were intact, and the bolt was still in place. A sign that the bolt was not putting force on the damper hub. Probably did a bunch of damage. You might not even be able to get another damper on. They're typically set as light interference fits. Try to fit the old damper and see. If it won't fit, a new one probably won't either. Good luck.

You need to do more study on the dampers, bolts and washers. It's not just Loctite and torque. The length of the bolt has to fit the thickness of the damper and the washer underneath and the washer's seat has to be right for the damper. Sounds like you have a mismatched set. theistuation is more comlicated than u ar realizing.

Now that your relays are right, be aware that 1976 uses a fuel pump relay contact switch in the AFM, and a separate Start power circuit. Starting then dying quickly is a common sign of the AFM switch not staying closed, due to low air flow. The engine's intake system, including the crankcase (the PCV system is connected to the intake system), needs to be sealed so that all air entering the engine passes through the AFM. Any leak, like a missing oil fill cap, will cause the AFM vane to stay closed and the switch to open, killing pump power. It's a safety feature.