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  1. The following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and DO NOT include shipping prices. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Will get you a quote once you let me know where the items are shipping to (I can usually ship pretty cheap from work). Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dAuXnCWC6Tf1iL6HcD1UY-jAl-Lmutxj?usp=sharing Interior Fresh Air Intake Vents (2x Left side and 1x Right side) $10 each Dash Defrost/Vent Set (Everything shown in the pictures) $25 Engine Bay fresh air vent (Left Side) $10 Heater Fan $15 Heater Wiring Harness $15 Heater Controls $20 for the one without knobs, $30 for the one with knobs Heater Control Panels (Both are cracked on top, one on the bottom) $25 each I should have more 240z and 280zx items posted shortly. Chris
  2. The following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and ship FREE in the continental US. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HXipGdIWp2IHk6SfDUrX3aJfp6l_r2HR?usp=sharing Series 2 Fuse Box Cover $40 Series 2 Combo and Turn Signal Switch (Turn signal switch has some cut wires) $100 pair SOLD Fan Switches $20 each Series 2 Hazard Switch $40 Series 1 Antenna Switch $50 Series 1 Cigarette Lighter $40 Inspection Lamps $10 each Assorted Electronics $5 each
  3. Hi all, So I recently bought a toggle panel/push button start combo (here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYRFLHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Pretty good build quality for the price, but I am rather uneducated when it comes to wiring. My goal is to be able to flip the first red switch and have that be my ACC power switch, then push the start button and off I go. I ripped out the old harness entirely and have rewired the car with an EZ wiring 21 circuit kit. Currently, It's getting power to the button but it's not cranking over anything. Also, when I turn the ACC switch the power goes through to the button, but even when I turn off the switch the current continues to flow through, I'm assuming the relay is set up incorrectly. After having that problem I did some research and drew up this diagram of what I think would be what I want, but in the diagram, I have the ACC toggle on its own, whereas I want it to be in line with the power to the button if possible. The Toggles are 3 prong units, so I think it's possible? I am hoping somebody can look this over and give me some practical advice and tell me if I'm close, and if not, what I need to change up! Thanks in advance. Here are the photos/
  4. I currently have a 240z with a chevy small block installed but am planning on upgrading to an ls3. The car has upgraded suspension but when going on the freeway the car drifts side to side with no steering input and I think this may be do to the weak chassis. Would it be worth it To sell the car and upgrade to a 280z which I have heard has a stiffer chassis and do the engine swap into that car instead of the 240z?
  5. ~KnuckleDuster~


    From the album: New Parts

  6. ~KnuckleDuster~


    From the album: New Parts

  7. Hey there, My name actually is Wesley despite my username, I've loved the Z series for an underwhelming 10 or so years. I'm new to the forum and I've dabbled in Classic Z Car forums for lotsa stock parts and rebuild resourcing. Recently I've been hunting and comparing prices on an RB25DET Series 2 (eng and trans) for my '72 240z who is lacking a working heart. I was recommend to this forum at a car event in Toronto, supposedly this is the hot spot for resto-mod and aftermarket Z builds! I don't believe this is the correct place for an introduction so i'll ask away. Has anyone purchased a used engine from a Toronto locale engine store, and what were your thoughts on service and product reliability? Additionally I am wondering if anyone has had good experiences with overseas JDM imports. I'm mostly concerned with accuracy of described product, product knowledge, and some form of warranty or guarantee. I've seen a 30-day limited warranty everywhere I've visited, and to be quite honest I will likely take the whole month to do the swap. That said, I may not be able to run the engine for testing before my warranty's up! Thanks so much for the read, and a quick thanks to every poster in the RB series forum. SO MUCH INFORMATION Wes
  8. I have a 240z with rebuilt E88 head, rebuilt dome top su carbs and I just went from stock manifold with 2.5” exhaust pipe and cherry bomb muffler to a header. I kept the pipe and muffler as the weren’t stock anyway, I just added a flexible connection from the collector to the existing exhaust pipe. Actually now I wish I didn’t do this modification. It’s really noisy and I’m not sure that moving away from the OEM cast iron exhaust manifold was a good idea. It seemed to do the job... any comment on the performance improvements or lack there of? One other point - within 6 months I had a fuel leak right over the header pipes even with all new fuel lines. It totally cooked the new fuel lines from the float bowls to the jets. They were cracking and perished. Dangerous. I have since replaced the SU carb fuel lines with correct parts, and modified the heat shield with an additional aluminum plate which sits under the fuel hoses/jets. I also added some heat wrapping to the fuel lines. Makes tuning more of a chore, but gives me peace of mind. Anyone have a solution to the header noise issue? Add a resonator? Change the muffler to a better one? I can tig/mig weld so would buy parts online and do the install myself. I’m not a boy racer (nearly 60) and it sounds like an F1 car now when I put my foot down. Yeah, I know- some of you would think that was a ‘bonus’. Richard
  9. Sakura Garage is pleased to announce the availability of the Stance USA fully adjustable coilover set for the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z. See our website: http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension for order information. - We use Stance USA Super Sport inverted struts. (No hood clearance issues) - Your choice of spring rates. - Swift Springs are also available as an option - Weld-on adapters included - with proper size and length for 240Z or 280Z strut configuration. Our kit allows a wide ride-height adjustment range** - from stock ride height to - well - dirt-nasty-low... We've also developed a bolt-on Camber Plate* for use with the Stance USA coilovers. Our camber plates allow the maximum possible adjustment range in an S30 strut tower! Included templates for drilling and cutting strut towers Drilling template uses stock top hat holes for proper alignment every time Cutting template assures you remove only what's needed to install camber plate Our stainless steel top plate (vanity plate) gives every installation a professional look Please note - this coilover kit requires: - cutting your stock strut tubes - welding the threaded adapters to your stock suspension - the bolt-on camber plates require cutting some material from your strut tower $1595 + shipping with camber plates $1295 + shipping without camber plates (modification must be done to stock top hat) * The camber plate is bolt-on but still requires some cutting of the strut towers to allow for installation of the camber plate and movement of the pillow ball for camber adjustment. ** Our primary focus is to give you a high-quality upgrade with full adjustability to give you maximum suspension performance for your dollar. But if your primary focus is low - you got it...
  10. Did some digging around, and I'm going to get an adapter set made to adapt the 240z spindles to s550 disc brake mounting points. This are massive brakes that sell for pennies on the dollar. Good for the guys with 800 hp ls v8s and 2jz setups. Going to use 65 mustang hubs which have the same A2 and A6 inner and outer bearings as the 240z spindles. Still got some fitting to do, more to come later. We are talking 4 piston 14 inch brakes for under $200 sometimes. Or 15 inch monster 6 piston brembos setup if your heart desires. Anyways, let me know if anyone would be interested, I'll be building the setup for my own 240z, but if 5 or 6 people want some, I will make extras. I did something similar for 1968 dodge chargers and people love them. Made an adapter that allowed use of 2014 mustang brakes on drum hubs and people have been buying and using them with great results, so I'm not new to designing something that works and offering it to people. I'll post pictures as I make progress. Currently dealing with a child who has a fatal heart defect so this may take a few months, but this is something I'm seriously designing right now to go along with the super 8.8 rear irs conversion I'm developing... The idea is to have a balanced braking system off a 2015 mustang complete, front and rear, no mismatch.
  11. Picked up a recently rebuilt L24 and E31 head. Block bored slightly. Head rebuilt to stock specs. Plan to run triple DCOE 40s w/ Mallory Unilite ignition. Would like to upgrade cam without doing additional work to the head. What cams would work with stock springs/lift?
  12. This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
  13. Hey all, I’m a Datsun newbie! Always wanted a 240z/510 project and finally made it happen over the weekend. I picked up the 73 Datsun 250 miles away from home with the “guaranteed to make the drive” from the owner – which it did not but we’ll get to that later. 1973 Datsun with a SBF 306 engine with GT40p heads, single plane intake, 750 Holley HP carb, speedway headers, 3” exhaust, manual valve-body c-4 transmission with SFI bell housing and 9” stall converter, TCI shifter, R200 posi rear end, Meziere water pump. I realize the 750 carb is probably too big, I think its what the PO had around and tuned it work. Motor seems to run strong, starts up pretty easily from a cold start and sounds like a beast. I however am a complete V8 newbie. Here are some pics of the car/engine. I ended up having to tow the car after 40 miles of driving as smoke started to fill the cab, when I pulled over it seemed like transmission fluid was dripping onto the exhaust. Upon examination we found the speedometer (speedometer and tach not hooked up) cable opening was closed with a rubber bushing and a wingnut. I tightened up the wingnut and have taken it for some short trips and it has not leaked yet. So that seems to have fixed the problem. I am not a huge auto guy and would prefer a 5-speed. I don’t even know where to start with wrapping my head around what that would entail. I have 2 large questions at the moment. The first is the transmission which has no transmission cooler – and it not hooked up to the radiator for cooling – is this a problem? The second is the flywheel – it looks like casing was trimmed back for some reason and the flywheel is exposed – is this a problem? Thanks for any help.
  14. Hi guys well i just sold my 06 350z and ive decided that im just going to start an rb25 swap on my old 73 240z soon. But before that i would like to see whats out here to see if you guys may have laying around. Im looking for performance parts, maybe someone has the mounts laying around they never got to use.? If not im going with the Mckinney mounts. Anything rb25 related is usefull. Let me know if anyone has anything. 240z parts i can also consider. Thanks.
  15. hello everyone! im new here but ive had my 280 for 2 years now. the engine turns over but it will never fire up. ive switched out plenty of relays and electrical components, cleaned out the fuel lines and installed new fuel pump. ive just decided to scrap the EFI system and switch to carburators. i was wondering if this would be the right place to ask the right person for some good but affordable carbs that will fit onto my 280z (cali model) thanks
  16. $16,500 The car is for sale locally and i reserve the right to end the auction at any time. No international buyers at this time. car is on ebay with a ton of pictures here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/361966110585?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 I am selling my ’72 240z street legal race car. Many pictures are after the description. This car is powered by the VQ35DE+6spd transmission from a 2003 350z (35k miles on donor). Please read the blog and entire ad below to get all the details and really absorb what this car has had done to it. No inexperienced drivers please. This car has no traction control, it can get you into trouble very quickly if not careful. It is a custom car and sold AS IS. No warranty expressed or implied. Ive owned it for 7 years and has been very reliable throughout my ownership, but I simply don’t drive it anymore. I fire it up once a month to get fluids moving and charge the battery, but I drove it about 5 times last year, only to car shows, so I think its time for a new home. I put 0 miles in the ad because i am not sure how many miles are on it. i have the factory speedo buried somewhere and since the VQ swap the speedo has not been recording mileage. i can find the original speedo and provide it if wanted. I think the easiest place to start is with the following build blog, where you will find most build related details. I haven’t added anything in a few years, but the majority of the build is there: www.vq240z.weebly.com here is a casual drive video I made a few years ago, but the car is fundamentally the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb4onzYaq28 Since the build blog I have made several improvements, please see the parts list and current pics to see all of what has changed. I raced it in NASA TT3 for the 2013 season and have about 20 track days under its belt with zero failures. It is a fun car on track, 2346lbs w/o driver, 233whp (at 4500ft elevation), and reliable. After one season of tracking it, I decided to move to Spec350z and retire the 240z to street use. The 350z is much more expendable in my mind than the S30 is. The S30 is quickly becoming a valued classic, especially the 240z. I think I would like to separate by category to cover all the parts and modifications that have been done. BODY: *started with a clean title California donor car, the donor itself was pricey. *POR 15 on all parts of the suspension, gloss black, see blog *KBS Rustseal on engine bay *all factory glass/windows currently in use *replaced both sheet metal doglegs with new metal due to rust *original floor pans with a few minor patches *Mckinney upper camber plates all four corners *coated most of the INSIDES of rocker panels, dog legs, wheel arches, etc with eastwood rust converter to prevent any rust from spreading from areas I couldn’t see *complete clean and strip of interior and painted with KBS gray along with engine bay *custom cage (1.5”x.120) fabrication from a local cage builder, per NASA spec. added much bracing elsewhere on rocker panels, etc. see build blog for all cage pics. *motor mounts welded on and stitch welded engine bay *BAD DOG front and rear frame rail reinforcement kit welded on over existing perfect condition frame rails *front sway bar reinforcement plates welded in *KBS sealed most of the underside of the body, took care of any undercoating that was missing *MSA headlight covers and wheel flares *MSA BRE front air dam and rear wing *MSA fiberglass rear bumper Overall I wanted the body to be functional, clean, and coated to prevent rust. This was more important than the paint being cosmetically perfect. It needs a good respray, I had vinyl decals I recently removed that took some of the paint with it. Along with that, It has some dings, scrapes, and many chips. It tends to look better in pictures than in person, it is white so its forgiving. My strategy with this restoration was to work inside to outside, the last item being the paint job. At the time, I decided I would not paint it due to the finish being acceptable to me as a race car, but now that it is more of a street car, I would want to get it painted. It was painted in the 90’s and its ready for another high quality respray. All the extra triangulation reinforcement has made the car feel amazing. Body weight is 2346lb with no driver and half tank of fuel with almost a perfect 50/50 weight distribution. ENGINE/Drivetrain: *2003 350z engine/transmission, pulled with 35k miles. Completely stock other than UPREV custom tune (with 4 hrs dyno time), Kinetix intake manifold, intake, and custom exhaust built by myself to include v banded sections, a y-pipe, 2.5” prior to y pipe and 3” piping after, and a Borla XR-1 muffler. The exhaust is aging, and I regret not doing it in SS, I did it in 16 gauge mild steel and painted it, but SS would have been better. There is always the option to get the current exhaust coated to clean it up instead of building a new one. *much deletion of EVAP equipment as well as the factory oil “cooler” (replaced with setrab), no Power steering, no AC, no heater, no blower. Factory manual fresh air duct valves are still intact and working. *SETRAB 25 row oil cooler with MOCAL sandwich plate with 180 degree thermostat, -10 SS lines/fittings *Factory modified radiator, works great and never gets close to overheating. I would probably replace with a pretty aluminum one eventually, the stock one doesn’t look as good, plus it is heavy. *Ford Taurus electric fan running off factory fan signal from ECU to turn on at ~210F *custom transmission mount and driveshaft *JWT lightweight flywheel *Exedy clutch disk, new throw out bearing, pilot bushing, Z1 shift fork pivot ball, 2004+ upgraded shift fork *new clutch master/slave cylinder/SS hard line *”RT” diff mount *Subaru STI R180 clutch pack rear LSD * Beta Motorsports diff output shafts to work with stock half shafts and STI differential * 280z stub axles *redline MT90 in tranny, Motul rear diff fluid *Completely custom fuel scavenge/return system using ATL “black box” with high HP fuel pump, flap doors to prevent starvation, aeromotive regulator and SS delivery and return. I used the factory fuel supply hard line as the return path for the fuel. Rollover valve installed in the vent of the fuel tank in the cabin. The engine/driveline feels great, never had a problem with any parts of it, no fuel starvation at any level on track. The Subaru STI LSD is the perfect combination for this engine. It dyno’d 233 rwhp at 4500 ft elevation. I run 5w-30 mobil 1 in the engine and I have many race miles on it and has never skipped a beat. The good thing is these engines are super cheap to source and repair. SUSPENSION/BRAKES: *Mckinney Motorsports S13 full coilover kit *Arizona Z car front wildwood 4 piston brake setup *Modern motorsports rear disk brake conversion *Front wildwood pads with centric street performance rear pads *ChaseBays Brake booster eliminator with Wilwood master cylinder (I still have the stock booster) *JEGS brake proportioning valve *Full -3 SS brake lines ran to every corner using Pegasus racing parts. *Techno Toy Tuning tension rods *Techno Toy Tuning Lower rear control arms *Suspension Techniques rear sway bar *MSA front sway bar *every bushing replaced with urethane versions *brake ducts run from front air dam to brake backing plates, clamped onto 3” exhaust pipe fitting, works great, ZERO fade on the hottest of days. Right now I have the duct hoses off since it has been a street car. Ive been trying out different brake combinations on this car. one thing you must learn is the brakes on this car have always felt abnormally hard, even with the booster. There still could be some troubleshooting done there and more experimentation with pad compounds, etc but that is up to the new owner. I will include all parts I have experimented with to try to get the feel I like but I am still not happy with how they feel. INTERIOR/ELECTRONICS: *factory modified 350z ECU harness, deleted (removed pins in connectors) down to only what I needed for the 240z, simplified A LOT. Rewrapped and simplified 240z body harness only to keep essentials. Has working brake lights, headlights, running lights, reverse lights, and horn. *Utilizing factory NATS (Nissan anti theft system) with all BCM, IPDM, key, ignition, NATS antenna, and ECU. I have a notebook with all diagrams and markups for troubleshooting future issues. Its been 7 years so I may not remember it all. *MSA upgraded headlight and parking light harness in order to get a brighter light and no wire overheating. *MSA updated fuse block to accept more modern mini fuses. *stock dash (with dash cap) trimmed to fit around roll cage *Autometer sport comp gauges (speedo, Tach with shift light, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel level, and battery voltage). Speedo does not have the magnetic pickup wired yet, so speedo does not work currently. *Ultrashield 5pt harnesses *Aluminum collars to prevent side to side movement of shoulder harnesses. *“Planted” side mounts hold the seats to the factory reinforced seat mount provisions. *Sparco Sprint 2014 version seats *Tomei steering wheel *NRG hub and NRG v2.5 quick release in carbon fiber, also have the regular hub non quick release. *fire extinguisher for basic fire management. *new carpet kit with vinyl panels and plastic panels The interior is very basic but it does the job. Its actually relatively comfy, I would really want to get some new door panels made to adapt around the cage, the ones that are in there are poorly modified and drivers side was destroyed from having to break in the driver door lock from the inside…new door panels are a must, luckily ive seen a lot of aluminum options as of late since these cars have skyrocketed in popularity. Also, the glue that holds down the new vinyl panels is starting to lift and parts of them need to be redone. You have to be a thinner guy to squeeze in and out of the car, the quick release steering wheel helps, but it’s a tight fit. You definitely feel as if you are driving a race car when driving this. Seating position is not adjustable with a slider, but can always be modified. I am 5’11” 175lbs, a pretty average size person. WHEELS/TIRES: * 17x9.5 -13 Rota RBX with Hankook RS3 tires. Tread is fine and will last a few more years depending on what you do with it. FLAWS: Flaws are relative, but if I were to keep it I would: recalibrate fuel level gauge, get new door panels made, get some of the vinyl panels refitted, wire up the speedo pickup, get a new exhaust made out of SS, and maybe a paint job sometime down the road. This is the type of car you want to work on and play with, so I’m sure the new owner will find small things to work on. CONCLUSION: Overall there is nothing more to say other than the car is an absolute blast to drive and own. It is purpose built for having fun on a nice day. It is a toy, not a daily driver. Its bumpy, loud, and your wife/girlfriend will probably not like riding In it. if you don’t know how to work on cars or do not like tinkering, please get something else. I get more attention in this car than I do when I drive my Ferrari. It actually gets annoying sometimes with how many people want to race you or chat about how they haven’t seen one in 30 years.
  17. Hey all, Firstly, I recognize that this is ground that has been tread and re-tread within the forums, but I am not finding an answer to my specific questions in older posts and am seeking clarity from the wise. With that said: Tokico no longer makes the Illuminas (or maybe doesn't make anything anymore) and the last stock of BZ3099s and BZ3015s (originally sized for the 240Z front and AW11 MR2 rear) have evaporated from stock shelves the world over. Illuminas (especially these shorter models) seemed to be the consensus choice for a slightly lowered, slightly stiffened street S30. I have seen references in other threads that suggest that the Koni 6810s are stiffer and more appropriate for high spring rates and track/road race uses. What shocks, currently on the market, are the best match to the performance of the Tokico Illuminas? Ideally something adjustable within the stiffness range of a daily driver.
  18. Hey all, Long time lurker, first-time poster. I am currently in the process of building an early 240z with a rb26 in it. I have just finished rebuilding my motor and mating it to the rb25 gearbox so I am in the process of getting it all mounted up in place. I am using the CXracing mount kit. I would have gone the McKinney kit but unfortunately here in Australia the dollar was low at the time of ordering so this was the only affordable one. Anyway, I have got the engine mounted up and am having trouble getting the gearbox up in the tunnel as the speedo sensor is interfering with the ears. I'm not sure the best way to go about fixing this issue. I have seen plenty of pics of peoples mods of notching out the bracket with the other style of tunnel mounting but I can't see any solutions that utilise the cx mounts I have. Has anyone come across and solved this problem at all? I have uploaded 2 pics of the interference, and also one of the mounts that I have that attaches between the ears. I have already tried just moving the engine forwards but the mounts are already set such that the engine is as far forward as possible. Any help would be much appreciated!!
  19. When you guys have done a 240z to EFI conversion whether it's MS or stock ECUs where do you route the EFI harness through the firewall? Do you cut a new hole near the brake booster or repurpose another hole? Looking for ideas. Thanks
  20. MrCheezle

    Datsun hood

    From the album: 71 240z

    Getting the hood ready for some paint.
  21. MrCheezle

    240z hood

    From the album: 71 240z

    The under side of the hood painted flat black in the center and gloss on the edges.
  22. MrCheezle

    Steering wheel

    From the album: 71 240z

    Tried to clean up the steering wheel.
  23. From the album: 71 240z

    After putting everything back on it's looking much better. I really need to take care of that signal light though.
  24. Hey guys, I don't really have a garage anymore due to Harvey and we are actually leaving the city for the Pacific NW coast sometime next year so I'm kind of in a bind. I have a '72 240z with some extensive rust. I can't really attempt to do this myself as a project any longer and I thought about selling her and buying another after I move, but I don't want to lose this car and try and find another which will probably be in a similar state anyway. Is there a shop in Houston that you recommend for the rust repair? I've been in contact with Awesome Z (Doug) and HoustonZAuto. Is there anyone else I should consider leaving my car with for the repair? Thanks in advance!
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