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Found 142 results

  1. I've been contemplating using a pre-smog body mated entirely to the suspension and running gear of a very modern car. I've drawn out plans, taken photos of my own Supras and 240Z while on stands, measured, compared, etc. This is still on the drawing board. The goal, of course, is to find the easiest/cheapest connection point between old and new, with a limited budget - maybe $8K. This budget is only for a drivable car that is complete using substantially used equipment. Blueprinting an engine, updating turbo system and control, dyno tuning, suspension upgrades, and all such expenses would wait until the proof-of-concept is reliably on the road for a while. Here's the plan, in general: Shell of one body, subframes of another, maybe floor & firewall of the subframe donor, steering & dash may be from subframe donor, front and rear fascia & body electrical of either a good cosmetic choice, or the same as the subframe donor, engine may match subframe donor (meaning only two designs are involved) or could be entirely unrelated. Exact combination depends on many factors. To all NaySayers: Here's someone who did it. He chose a Volvo P1800 body, a Lexus SC400 as complete donor, and required some tube framing. He took two years in his garage to get it road-worthy, starting without blueprints but just cutting the cars up and doing it. Kudos for pulling it off: http://www.pro-touring.com/general/member-pro-touring-projects/got-volvo-73794.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/548803-volvo-body-swap-build.html Datsun examples worth considering: S30 shell, subframes and additional equipment (maybe entire floor like the Volvo) come from a 350Z/G35/370Z; engine coudl be a VQ35DE, VH45DE, or SR20-DET as best examples. To maintain 350Z geometry (which wins autocross) one must either extend the nose (tube frame) giving even more room for the engine without crossmember conflict and better weight distribution, or move the rear wheel wells back relative to the body, placed much as they are on a 350Z (low overhang). 260Z/280Z 2/2 (2+2) - unpopular body, but the wheelbase happens to approximate several modern options. The 350Z theme could be used, but here's another good combination: due to Japanese tax incentives, the Lexus IS300 is narrowed, and therefore a very close match to use as subframe and floor donor (and additional equipment, depending on fitment), with either the stock 2JZ-GE VVTi from the IS300 (reuse all the wiring, gauges, and everything stock), 1UZ-FE V8 (perhaps using SC400 as donor instead for simplicity, though wider body), GR series V6, 2UR-GSE (IS-F engine, not in my price range but certainly worth a mention), and other engine options. Datsun 1200 (B110) shell, Mazda Miata subframes (supposedly easy to work with, made for more weight than this finished project, good match of geometry, dead engine Miatas with suspension upgrades can be bought cheap), SR20DET, CA18DET, VQ35DE, or even the Frontier RWD QR25DE since stock power would be more than ample for a 2000lb car. For that matter, an "old school" engine might be used. Engine/transmission could be from any other donor; any small high-tech 4-banger that has a modern intercooled turbo kit available. Obviously any of these could also take the GM LS1/T56 or newer with suspension mods, but I've focused entirely on Japanese (though still mix brands). So the topic is... Could I do similar to the Volvo/Lexus project using a pre-smog Datsun and whatever donor seems the best match? I concurrently am asking a question about fabrication cost on another thread, asking if outsourcing the fabrication to Mexico or further south could get the metal-work done cheaply but well.
  2. I'm looking for a rust free and overall clean s30 hood in the Houston Area. I have no preference concerning which style either. Just let me know what you have. Feel free to send me a PM or leave a response here with the details. Best Regards Anthony
  3. Well, I figured it would happen eventually. I'm trying to figure out the wiring before I get the engine in the car so the swap goes as quickly as possible. I've gone over the sticky as well as the more extensive and hidden version of the same thing. Harness is from an 82/83 280ZXT and going into a '76 280Z The diagrams and pictures I've seen have two plugs near the rubber firewall grommet, one for ignition (8 wire plug) and one for the fuel pump/fuel pump relay (6 wire plug). However, my harness has two 8 wire plugs, and the wires and colors do not match those of the diagrams I've seen. It doesn't even match the '83 FSM diagram. The person I bought the harness from labeled a couple wires in what seems to be the fuel pump and fuel pump relay plug harness, but I can't verify them obviously since the plugs and wire colors don't match what I've seen. Diagram that has been referenced: I'm also confused on the two wires that feed power to the EFI relay. They were connected to fusible links, but the sticky says stick them on the POS terminal of the starter. Shouldn't they be fed power after fuses? I'd assume I can hook them up to my fuses that are currently in the car (I did the maxifuse swap) but I'm not sure... Also, I'm unsure about where to wire the power wires that are in the EFI relay loom. 1 constant 12v and 2 switched 12v. If anyone has done this swap and would like to guide me on where would be a good spot to do this please let me know. Maybe I'm just thinking about this too much but I keep second guessing myself and running into weird issues like the plugs and wire colors not matching. Pictures attached show the plugs in question.
  4. I would like to purchase a decent condition rear hatch for Datsun s30 coupe. I hope that the part has minimal rust. Glass is not needed. Please send your offers with pictures to my private message or by e-mail make114@gmail.com
  5. Dutchiez

    datsun 280z

    From the album: My 280z

    My 280z
  6. Hi, I recently picked up some Chastain Shadow louvers for my 280z but they don't have the lower mounting plates that the captive screws go onto and tighten down on. These louvers are the kind that go underneath the weatherstripping and lift up. Thanks in advance, Brandon
  7. Alright I just want to start by saying that I'm still very new in learning about the S30(Datsun 280Z). I've been reading up on this car and things about it as much as I can. With that being said I need help and will continue to look for answers(searching) apart from this thread. Not sure where to start and looking for advice. I think with everything I have in mind not looking at all the prices yet. The budget for my car that i plan to keep until I'm old and senile would probably be closer to the $20k-$30k. Unexpected problems/costs. I will be getting the car this Sunday the 17th of August. what I think is the proper way in going about this build would be first to strip down to the bare frame and doors and hood and get it sent off to be sand blasted or media blasted whichever is better. Not sure on that. Second would be to get camber plates welded in so handling is a little better. Next I assume would be to get some sort of roll cage put in. Need more info on cages before deciding to do it before getting painted. Next steps I'm not to sure on... I want to do an RB25det or RB26dett depending on a few things. One how much money would it be to find one. found an RB25 for 1200 with ecu wiring transmission on CL(no RB26 on CL). Two would be how well would the engine sit in the bay? Would it throw off the distribution of weight very badly? Is there something I'm missing? I know I would need to get custom engine mounts made. Should I build the engine how I want(400-450whp) before dropping it in the car or build it once its in the car? I know theses can handle up in to the 600hp range without any internal mods. With building an engine comes with fuel upgrades that I will have to read up on. I'm not too sure what to do as far as transmission goes because I want one that can handle the 400-450whp without breaking synchros very much or case flexing. I've thought about going automatic but I enjoy driving manual too much to do that. I know I'm missing information on other key things like a differential and stuff but this is all I know for now... I plan on upgrading some of the electronics like gauges and audio not to familiar with it really but I will be I want to build and do as much as I can on my own or with help. I do want to keep the original gauges and get some extra gauges in there. I also plan on replacing the speakers and running a Subwoofer with two amps one for the door speakers and tweeters and one solo for the Sub that will be mounted into the back sort of molded into the car not really in a box. I will be upgrading the seats so that I will have some sort of seat harness so i Dont fly if I ever wreck it(and rebuild). I want to get the AZC brake setup looks nice read awesome reviews and not many people have done rebuilds on them. I want to lastly want the floor to be carpeted and leather doors. I know I don't have all the information and have never built a car and I apologize if this thread upsets some people "just look up everything yourself its out there" I want someone else s ideas besides mine so I can learn and see what others think. I'm building this car like this because if I can do this and finish then I'm going to into this field of customization.
  8. Hello, I'm Agita. I just bought a 240z that is in decently bad shape. It's rusted pretty bad in places and the driver's side panels will need to be replaced. The hood is damaged where some idiot used a crowbar to open it..... not kidding.....what a jerk. Most all of the interior plastic panels are in really good shape, one or two have small cracks that I'm not entirely worried about. One has two holes cut out for speakers..... sadly. I bought a whole driver's door in good condition minus a rust spot the size and shape of a quarter. Much better than the giant dent in mine. I also picked up a cowl that was without damage to replace the damaged one where the idiot with the crowbar used it as a brace to pop the hood. It's a 1970 240z. HLS30-02603 made in March of 1970 I've lurked here for a long while but now I'm gonna jump in. Lots of pics. Please feel free to comment or point anything out. I'm learning and researching as much as I can but I'm far from knowledgeable. I have lots of pictures and am willing to take a pic of anything you would like to see in specific. OK, I don't really know where to start, but the first thing would be the driver's floorboard. I've read about it a lot, and payed close attention to tutorials and all forms of processes listed here and elsewhere. ( feel free to link suggestions, I love reading about it ) I'm reasonably certain that I can replace the floorboards without problem, but I'm concerned about where the seatbelt bolts in near the door. The entire panel twisted out when I went to take the seatbelt off. (see the pic below) Is it okay to just weld in a strong panel then make a place for the seatbelt? Lots more, but lets start there and see what you guys think.
  9. So after searching around I couldn't find anything on this site related to gas mileage. So I went to google and found that the 280z is rated about 18mpg city and 27mpg highway! Well I'm running a mostly stock 280z (just intake and 2.5" straight exhaust) and I'll get 16-18mpg cruising 50% highway at 70mph @ ~3800RPMS, and most of the rest on country roads at 55mph @ 2500RPMS. I think the only other things affecting mileage would be wider sticky summer tires (225s) and a 3.7 rear diff, but would that really kill my mileage that much? I have new plugs and wires as well, and my car idles rock solid at 750rpms, but I don't have a wideband (yet) to check my AFRs Are other people getting similar mileage, or is my car running too rich for some reason?
  10. So, spoiler alert! This story is about a Z car that I've owned since the early 90's. It has spent most of its life in storage. Worse, it is a long distance love affair as it is at my mom's place in Seattle while I'm in Sydney. Being a time capsule and a long distance affair, my warning is that this story will have a horrible cliff-hanger until I can get back to Seattle again (It is verbatim posted build thread in the Skylines Australia forum where I usually hang out). Also, the early part of the story is light on pictures since it started so long ago. [This is the only picture I could find of the car in its early history. But was after the conversion had already begun] So, how did I get the car? This is a long story. Living in Seattle with my brother, there was one of the worse wind storms to hit Seattle on 20th Jan 1993. Winds topped 94 MPH. One casualty of the day was my Brothers '70 240Z. It was struck by a tree that fell center on down the car in my sister's front yard. The car was totaled. Worse insurance called it an act of god and wouldn't pay. So I went looking for a replacement Z with my Brother. We found this '72 240Z that was an ex-SCCA race car. The owner had brought it up from California but it had sat in his garage for >10 years. It was actually only used as a road car for the first few years of its life before conversion for racing. Back then race prep was crude and done by individuals rather than shops. So all the wiring was stripped as was most of the interior. Spec: 240Z run as a 260Z for larger engine displacement. 100 lbs were added to the car to run in that trim. 260Z motor with extractors, 7lb alum/steel insert flywheel, & Iski Race cam, retained original 4 speed 2.5" straight pipe exhaust with a single resonator at the back Bilstein Racing Strut inserts (these things have monster 30+mm shafts) 5pt adjustable custom anti-roll bars front and rear numerous other mods The howl that this car gave off that could be heard from 2 blocks away gave it the family nick name "the Green Hornet". As it turns out that is the name that Greg Scott from Scott Performance gave his own very similar Z (Scott Performance did a lot of the work on this car originally in California). Anyways the car had sat and wasn't road legal. So my brother and I worked on it for about a month and got it going. Luckily there was a loop-hole that California cars had stricter emissions standards so we got to license it without an inspection. WIN! However, a year later it needed to get inspected so we were back to square one. Since my brother just wanted a street car, we found a '73 240Z for him and I traded him for this Z. After the '73 went through emissions we swapped the race motor into that car since he no longer liked the response from a stock Z. I had other plans anyways. My goal? Well I was still on a meager wage back then but I wanted a club racer. So my goal was to build a 240Z that could beat a Porsche 911. You see in the 90's the track was full of Microsoft(ies) that cashed stock and all bought 911's to bring out to club race days. They were slow as anything in the corners (afraid that the Porsche tail kick would bit them) but would blast down the straights cause they had the power. I figured a 240Z with a 300ZX Turbo transplant would solve that right quick. I bought a totalled '84 300zx turbo 5sp manual and started the engine swap. Little did I know that my career would take off a year later along with marriage and instant family since my wife had a son from a previous marriage. Thus this project would get put aside for much, much longer than I expected (and different continents). So in the next installment I'll bring you up to speed on where the transplant got to before going into storage for nearly 20 years!
  11. Hello friends, from all over the world, my name is Zamar and I am an aspiring Datsun enthusiast. A little background of myself.... I'm twenty one years old, married with my first child, a service member in the U.S. Marines and on a very tight budget due to my other pricey hobbies. Majority of my time is at work and working out, close to all of my time off is spent with my wife and daughter. I do all of my research and learning up on this site and I hope to meet very knowledgable Datsun and/or car enthusiasts. A little background on my 280z, Penny. My goals with Penny is to rebuild her factory L28e and get a reliably smooth and sound motor. - upgrade her whole suspension and lower her 2-3 inches - repaint her Copper brown - replace her factory wheels and tires with a more modern rim and low profile tires. - remove front and rear bumpers, add front grille and air dam - install aftermarket radio I really hope to get a lot of help and I apologize in advance for my new guy questions. I understand to search and search before posting a thread about something that has been covered probably a dozen times before.
  12. darbedare92

    DSCN2262

    From the album: After sandblasting

  13. darbedare92

    DSCN2256

    From the album: After sandblasting

    Some pictures after sandblasting the 240z
  14. Does anybody know the thickness of the factory glass? I'm planning on replacing the quarter window glass with coated polycarbonate (Makrolon AR2) while retaining the factory metal frame and rubber trim. I would like to order as close to the factory thickness as possible to aid in fitment with the rubber seals. On a side note, Makrolon AR2 is hard coated on both sides. I've read elsewhere that coated poly sheets don't suffer the same outgassing issues that regular Lexan has when trying to use tint film. I've only ever seen this done on sheets with only one hard coat. My concern is that the AR2 coating may somehow be different from traditional hard coats to compensate for the lack of an 'open' side to allow the outgassing... if anybody has any insight I would appreciate it.
  15. Hi everyone, I've been trying to get my car working properly again and it keeps giving me trouble. I think the source of this is the fuel line i'm using from the tank outlet to the fuel pump inlet. It's carburetor hose since it's on the non-pressurized side of the system, but it's very soft/malliable and kinks very easily. I think this is what's causing my car to not get enough fuel while driving. I can't find the OEM Nissan hose anywhere, and I can't find 7/16 fuel injection rated hose anywhere either. Does anyone know where I can get either of those? I'd like to get my car running again ASAP. Thanks, - Brandon
  16. Hey everyone, I've got a 1976 S30. It's effectively stock as far as the EFI system goes, all I've done is change the plug wire connectors for the injectors and I've replaced the fuel send lines with new hose. Of course I also put a new filter on it after I got it as well. During the summer, it started having an issue where it would randomly lose engine power entirely for brief moments- a number of seconds, really. Then it would pick back up and drive normally. I thought it was just crud working its way through the lines from the gas tank and I wasn't too concerned about it. Shifting up a gear would usually make it stop. Then it started to bog down on the rare occasion. It would run rough, misfire, had no power, and wouldn't rev over 1500 rpm (or if it did, it went kicking and screaming). I would drive it for a minute and then it would start running normally. On my way to my first day at a new job last month, it died in my neighborhood and wouldn't start again. My dad and I were trying to push it back that night but it was tough since it was on a slight slope. He went to get the truck to pull it back and I decided to try starting it again to see what it would do. It caught a couple times and then finally coughed back to life. I changed the fuel pump thinking it was the old one going bad. I used an Airtex pump from O'Reilly (I know, you're probably rolling your eyes now) and installed a Fram G3 between the tank and the pump to keep tank crud from messing up the pump. It worked fine for a couple days and then the issue came back with a vengeance. As it sits now, the car idles fine. Driving it, it starts to stumble around 2500 rpm and the power cuts completely at ~3000 rpm. It's almost undriveable unless I'm really careful with how high I rev. Even then, it can be fussy. The general manager of the auto shop I work for knows the car really well so he helped me diagnose it on Saturday. He checked and adjusted the TPS and AFM. We tried a new computer since we had one laying around and there was no change. He checked for leaks on the intake and found none. He removed the vacuum from the FPR on the fuel rail and fuel pressure rose accordingly which, if I've read correctly, means that the FPR is functioning properly. The last thing we did was check fuel pressure (probably should have done that first but hindsight is always 20/20). It was running at 32 psi @ idle and under load (revving the car) it would dip to ~30 psi. If I'm correct about the FPR working properly, I've narrowed it down to 3 suspects: - The G3 filter I installed between the tank and the pump - The new pump - Fuel damper near the pump I read about people installing the G3 so I thought it was a good idea. The pump is new, but it is a random O'reilly brand. Since I was having issues before and after replacing the pump, that leads me to believe that the issue does not lie in the pump setup I installed. My old OEM pump was probably still working alright for its age. As I type this, the most plausible cause in my eyes would be the fuel damper. I'm not sure what the symptoms of a bad fuel damper are, however. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to try running it without the filter when I get the chance, but I've been obscenely busy the last few days. Thanks. Pac_Man
  17. ok so ive had my z for a couple months now and i though id post some foward progress. i got it pretty much stock. not a whole lot done besides asthetics. i will slowly be going through it cleaning her up and making it run for autoX races eventually. well without further ado here it is.
  18. Hello, Me and my friends have started the first of what's going to be a huge series of "Budget Boosting" your car. If you want to know more details on the topic, check out the YouTube video at "http://youtu.be/5-1SnD5ZY5k" Hopefully you learn something, there is a lot of information in this episode. Have a great boosting day!
  19. Lately I've been brainstorming how I'd like to run my intercooler piping for my L28ET S30, and I've come up with (what I think to be) a unique and simple solution that should do everything that I'm trying to achieve. Firstly, let me state my goals: 1.) Keep all the piping on the left side of the radiator. This means both intercooler pipes and intake. I am running a Treadstone intercooler with same side inlet/outlet tanks. 2.) Allow the removal of piping in the engine bay, without having to touch anything in front of the rad support. Not really a big deal, but it would make servicing and pulling the engine easier. 3.) Maintain or increase the rigidity of the rad support. This is the big one, I do NOT want to simply cut larger holes in the rad support. I am looking for strength, simplicity and cleanliness here. Problems: I'm working with three different sizes throughout all my components. My intercooler has 2.5" outlets, my TB has a 3" inlet (manifold has been ported, before anyone tells me that it's a waste) and the turbo has a 2.5" outlet and a whopping 4" inlet (Holset HY series). In an ideal world, these values would be much closer together, but this is what I'm working with. I plan on using a reducer hose to immediately drop the 4" inlet to 3" and keep everything between the filter and turbo 3". The piping between the intercooler and turbo outlet is the only two parts that match, so these will obviously be 2.5" In between the TB and the intercooler I plan on using both 3" and 2.5" piping, joined by a reducer at the rad support. This may not be best, but I've already got the 3" portion being built, and it's going to be a work of art so it's staying! Whew! Now to my proposal! I would like to weld in steel joiners directly to the radiator support. My thinking is that this would avoid any loss of rigidity typical to cutting large holes and possibly increase it over stock. All I'm adding is one additional silicon connection per pipe with this set up, which shouldn't create any noticeable loss in flow. Here is a picture of a joiner, and two (admittedly poor, I'm away from any graphics software) hand drawn illustrations to demonstrate exactly what I'm getting at. Has anyone ever done anything like this? Are there problems with this sort of set up that I'm overlooking? Thanks for reading what has unintentionally turned into a rather long winded post! Discuss...
  20. Hi everyone, I'm changing out the heater control valve in my car and possibly the heater core while I'm at it. I want to replace the hoses since there's a good chance that the current ones will crack or break when I remove them. I've been trying to source new ones and I can't seem to find the whole set anywhere. I was going to buy 2 of the 3 at Black Dragon but after checking their diagram and my car's setup, they seem to be different so I'm hesitant on buying from them. Not to mention a lot of them are fairly pricy... I'm not really looking to pay $70 for a few little hoses. Do I need the shaped hose? Or could I use some unshaped hose instead? And if I need the shaped hose, can someone point me to a place that sells them for a reasonable price? EDIT: For clarification, the hoses pictured here are the 3 I'm looking for: Thanks. - Brandon
  21. Good Day Guys, so after thinking a lot, about and seen someone telling me RTFM, I might do so and start by making the car go on, to see if the engine goes on... any way, the engine did for some info this engine was swap once before by the old owner to a l28. here are some pics of the starting status of the car. will update as it goes
  22. I'm looking for one driver side window for a 77 or 78 280z. PM me for a number to text. Located in West Texas.
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