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Showing results for tags 'harness'.
Found 11 results
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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MODERATOR PLEASE CLOSE THIS THREAD ! THANK YOU MOVED TO VENDOR FORUM Iam now an authorized MS vendor via Amp EFI/DIYautotune. Any products from DIY autotune I can sell. Any sale made through hbz will have a 2-5% donation to the forum ( varies from product to product ) the least I could do for the forum. Any product will be the same price as listed on DIY website and any warranties will still be covered. Also my plug and play harness will still be for sale here as well as more new efi products for hbz so be sure to keep following the progress. Original post I just happened to complete a full plug and play ms2 system was wondering if there was interest in doing some more seeing as FricFac is not doing any more . I can make them for the less cost and will include much more. Allot of hours has been put into this harness and will clearly show pictures don't do it justice. To make this worth while I would need 3-5 to start. The Essential harness will be $400 It will include: - 8-10ft harness color now 12 ft minimum coded with diagram , ignition input shielded for noise cancellation, 1 wire end to end not a hack job. all new plugs and sensors - 6x EV1 sealed injectors plugs quick disconnect - 1x GM coolant temp sensor with amp sealed plug - 1x GM air temp sensor with amp sealed plug - 1x ms2 friendly Throttle Position sensor with sealed plug - 1x ms2 friendly Crank Angle Sensor with plug OR l28et distributor input ( you supply plug ) - loom supplied new - lowered price from$ 490 to $400 - AMP DB37 METAL clamshell connector - GXL wiring (heat and oil resistant) - 12ft length at no extra charge! ( shorter length and custom layout available ) - labelled every 3 inches - extra FIDLE, IAC 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B wires The Full Package Harness + Relays + Fusebox will be $750 will include: - Everything from Essential Harness - Main and Fuel pump Relays - Fusebox: Labelled with fuses for fuel pump, coil, ecu, 2x injectors banks. With 2 spare connections for wideband / boost controller. - 16 ft power to fuel pump and 10ft power to coil (crimped and soldered) - Main Power to battery with fuse connectors, 8ft ground for relays, 8ft switched power for relays. (crimped and soldered) - NOTE LAST 4 OPTIONS I could connect , crimp and solder everything. OR just include and label the obvious reason being placement of ECU is different for everyone - plenty of loom supplied - new - AMP DB37 METAL clamshell connector - GXL wiring (heat and oil resistant) - 12ft length at no extra charge! ( shorter length and custom layout available ) - labelled every 3 inches - new relay/fusebox can handle 6 relays ie fan(s), lights, etc with 6 FUSES typical install uses 3-4 leaves 2 spare wideband , boost gauge etc - extra FIDLE, IAC 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B wires extras options available 4 cylinder harness, 8 cylinder harness, trigger wheels for CAS ecu panel mount custom length wires. Mega squirt hardware assembly. PM for extra options and more info.
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Welcome gentleman! (+Ladies?) I have had my '76 280Z for a few years now. Ran a bigger turbo L28 for all the time I've had it. I have recently restored the body and paint, I now need the heart and brains to go with this broad of mine. I have just pulled out my L28 and now need to have a few questions answered. Here is my situation: I can attain a full GTO/C5 LS2/T56 from salvage auction. Or I have a few local engine options I can go with. But I can't find a T56 for the life of me (in Canada, just over the pond from Detroit, A.K.A the gutter of Ontario) First question: I have taken the ECU box of out the drivers side and fed the engine harness through and have taken it all of from the engine. The passenger side however - do I take ALL of the harness out? The pass. side routes to the starter, body grounds, this junk fuse panel (for lights?) alternator, lights, turning signals, etc; do you guys take that all out and run a whole brand new harness from the passenger side connections under the glove box? I've heard of the EZwiring kit, is that something to run for the lights/signals with the LS? Secondly: if I were to go with the LS2 from the salvage car is there somebody or a company that revamps the harness for these engines? My goals for this swap are simple. Have a GOOD running engine and car in a whole. I don't need a wireless engine bay, just clean. I don't need over 450hp either. I want the engine and harness set up to be reliable as possible for I am wanting to go on long drives with this and drive it almost daily in good weather. I want everything I need (aside from odds and ends)before I start putting the LS in. I am going with the JCI mounts and drive shaft for what it's worth as well. I have a good amount of money set aside for this whole ordeal, it my 4th engine swap (rb20, SR engines previously) so I know how somethings are done,! but I do not want to cut any corners with this swap. I want things done right and done right the first time. I have also been looking at a million threads on this but I can't seem to find a few things I want to now. I already have more questions but I want to see the reply I get with this first. Thank you very much for your time and effort in advance. Cheers. -
Want good condition ecu. Would like harnesz as well. Looking for maf as well
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I'm looking to buy 2 used four point racing harnesses. I don't need them to be FIA certified, and they can be past their expiration year for track racing. I like takatas, racecraft, and schroth in particular, but I'm working on a tight budget so anything will work. Also, I would strongly prefer centerlocking harnesses. Let me know what you've got. Thanks for your time Z community EDIT: I previously stated that I would consider 6 point harnesses or unmatching sets but I decided I'd like to run a matching set of four point harnesses. Email at mv.pkragen@gmail.com or respond here. Located in San Luis Obispo Area (93410), central California. Could also accept shipments to 94507 (East San Francisco bay area).
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I am looking for a pair of these for my blinker conversion.
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I am building a turbo L28 engine stroked and bored to 3.1 litres with an upgraded turbo. I have the 1983 CAS dizzy driving my Microtech ECU and Igniter box. I don't have the wiring harness for the dizzy that has the Green, black, red, white wires from the dizz going to Gr/Ye, Black, Bl/Wh, Gr/Bl wires in the EFI harness. I have read every post on this and there are some that describe the connections that correspond on the dizz end to the colours BUT there isn't one that correlates with another, in other words there are CONFLICTING posts. So I really need to get the correct way round. Here are the options I have seen. Looking at the dizzy four spade male connector box with the screw hole for fastening the harness on the top left corner.(see pic): One post says starting at top left going clockwise: Red, Green, Black, white. Second post says (same rotation) : Green, Red, Black, White. Also, if I am reading the FSM correctly it agrees with post one above. Can anyone Please help and confirm which is correct? Many thanks guys. Andy
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I am in need of a complete dash wiring harness for my 1971 240z. also the gas gauge and amp gauge. thanks hope some one can help me out. Rick
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I need the wiring, including connectors, for the output from a late 280zx. Turbo electronic distributor. This is the dizzy with the single circular 360deg plate with 6 x output marks at 60deg intervals which connects to the 280zx ECU and is driven by a splined driveshaft not a straight tongue. I need the 4 pin (female) connector for the dizzy end with it along with a length of the wiring. The other end is not important but preferable if you can split it out from the loom. Alternatively I would be happy to purchase a complete "engine section" wiring loom as I can use this in stead of adding bits to my 260z loom. Can pay by PayPal or EFT. Thanks Andy -
Hi Everyone, Long time reader first time poster. I have been looking rather exhaustively in my home country (Australia) for an original condition dash harness including lower console harness, radio harness and hazard light harness & switch to suit my 1975 260Z (280Z for you guys). Here is a photo of the harnesses that I'm after: From what I can find online any LHD 280Z harness should be suitable for my needs but my preference would be for harnesses out of a 1975 280Z if possible for continuity sake. I can pay in cash or I have a spare pair of 260/280Z "Euro" tail lights in good condition (with wiring) I could trade as a part exchange. Parts for these cars are becoming extremely hard to come by over here so any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm pretty desperate! Thanks, Alex
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I'm in need of an ecu wiring harness from a 1983 280zx turbo in good condition. Thanks.
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