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Hi I have a custom vw efi build I'm doing and I'm planning on running a DIYAutoTune MegaSquirt MS3Pro Ultimate. Each bank of cylinders have there own throttle body, tps and ica Is it possible to run 2 tps sensor and 2 ica sensors on the DIY ms3 due to the split banks and cylinders? -
I am not a mechanic at all, i am just a 19 yo who started liking cars and likes building things, so bear with me if some terminology or methodology is wrong Hello, I'm in a bit of a crisis with my car at the moment, and before I get told to do this, yes I have spent days searching the internet, and yes I have looked through the FSM for this model year of the 280z, and spent many days looking through the wiring diagrams trying to solve this problem. A little backstory for this project of mine: My grandpa has had this car for about 30ish years now sitting on his property. I recently took an interest in the car and was starting to get into cars in general. So he decided to let me try to restore the car with him. I should mention the car had been stripped of all components for a full restoration that 30 years ago. so I started on the car approximately 2-3 months ago now, and am almost ready to start, and paint the car, and get it road ready. Onto my electrical problems: So after I got every electrical connection together through the entire car, we plugged in a new battery to start testing the electrical components. Right off the start there were issues but not too many, the engine would crank fine but we didn't have gas so we don't know if it would have started or not. but as i have been trying to solve the problems with the electrical, i accidently shorted a ground pin to the main headlight pin in a connection while light testing and since then, the headlights don't work, and the flashers don't work. The fuses are fine none blown, and the fusible links are fine, they all get continuity & voltage through them. I have replaced the flasher relay and it didn't change anything, I have cleaned all the connections in the combination switch circuits. Then when I was testing the ignition switch, I accidently cranked the engine, and my negative to chassis ground cable instantly melted. Ever since then the positive terminal of my battery, has continuity to the chassis of the car, the engine and every single ground contact/cable throughout the car. Another thing, I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but in my fuse box, the left side of my fuel gage fuse (blue wire) has continuity with the positive terminal of my battery. Things i have tried to trace the problem so far: I have taken off all the important relays for operation and opened them, checked for any damage, and cleaned them. I have been checking all my fuses and fusible links constantly to make sure its not them. I did notice today, that when I unplug the fusible link in the picture, my positive terminal loses ground to the entire car, which has led me to believe its something to do with that cable. Any help would be apprieciated
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Hello! I did an rb25det swap for a 1979 280zx, though I'm having issues figuring out the wiring for the alternator; with the original alt' wires disconnected, you can't shut the fuel pump off/dash lights stay on until you disconnect the battery, I've tried splicing the L wires into the Rb's harness but it still has the same issue. Anyone who's done an engine swap found the solution to this?
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How's it goin? Well I have an issue with my 1977 280z 2+2, stock everything. I have run into the issue of the fuel becoming too hot and I just wanna know what others with the same or in the same general area. Any info/suggestions much appreciated!
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Hey guys, I’m working on a blow through set up on my L3.0 flat top engine. I’ll be running a P90 head all stock with light blending and port clean up. Stock turbo exhaust manifold, t3/to4e .50 trim Garrett turbo. Haven’t picked the FMIC yet or piping. I know I need the oil pan and oil lines. my question is this, I’ll be using Atomic EFI (2) and a Clifford manifold. I’d like to use MSD 6al along with it. The TBI atomic has a timing control feature id like to use. I was wondering if I could use my NA dizzy and just lock the timing. Also if I can do this, how do I set it up to control timing? I’ve searched all over and can’t find to much on it and I’m in WV. There aren’t any Z guys around me. (From Florida originally) the reason I really want to control the timing is because I have a flat top engine. I don’t want to blow the dang thing up if I decide to run 15+ psi. any help on running this kind of set up would be awesome. Parts list etc? 😁🇺🇸 Thanks guys!
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Hey im new to these forums and have trouble finding my way around but I've seen some post about this sorta swap and i just wanted more info on what i need or might need, descriptive lists are very helpful with links if possible thank you
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I couldn't be any happier to announce that I have my 1978 Datsun 280z back in my possession after all these years. Way back when I was only eighteen years old, I had an amazing cousin that introduced me to Datsun's and specifically the S30 Series. At the time he owed a couple Z's. One with an LS swap and the other with a turbo kit. Once I experienced the awesomeness that these vehicles could put out, I was hooked! Just like that, I made my mind up that I had to have one. With my cousins help of course, we were able to pick up my 280z fairly quick. Happy to say that I got in a good couple years with the Z being my daily driver. During this time I began to go down a very dark path. Unfortunately the Z was not my priority during my "dark years". This lead to my car sitting at my dads for a good 6 to 7 years. Now that I am in a much better place in life, I was able to get the Z back in my possession. I decided that it would be best for the car to go straight to the shop and get some professional help. I have never claimed to be the best mechanic, so this seemed to be the best option. Unfortunately the shop had the car for close to a year. I have now paid a LARGE amount to get the car up and running like a top!! Now that I have the car back home I would like to start working on it myself. Again, I have always had help with the car so I feel very unworthy at the moment lol. This is where I would like your help. I will post all the pictures I have, in hopes that you all can point me in the right direction. Honestly I do not have many funds after paying for the shop bill, so I want to make it a point to do all the work myself that I can possibly handle. I have only had the car back for a few days now so I haven't been able to tag it due to the COVID mess going on. From the little bit I have been able to drive it, all seems to be running well! I do think that the next step I take will be upgrading the suspension and steering. Just from the couple short trips I have taken on the Z, its very obvious that the suspension is in need of some love. Happy that you all are here with your expert advice! Look forward to the responses to come!
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Hello everyone, i had a question regarding the sr20det swap into the s30 chassis more specifically a 280z. What needs to be done so that the egnine can get enough fuel for about 250-300 crank horsepower reiably? Getting a fuel cell isnt really an option since i plan to daily this car in the future. I was just curious what everyone else was using in terms of fueling in their ka/sr swaps.
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Hello, I had the L28 and 5-speed from my ‘81 280ZX swapped into my ‘78 280Z and the budget shop could not get the pedal linkage to correctly connect to the throttle body linkage. There is wood pieces at the firewall (exterior) keeping the linkage in place and the pedal is pretty close to the floor without much motion. I don’t seem to have a pedal stopper to adjust in the S30 so I don’t know what to do to get the pedal to have full range of motion. Has anybody encountered this problem and know the solution? I couldn’t find anything online... thanks!
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I recently fixed an engine oil leak that made a mess all around the underside of my 77 280z. After a few months of the leak stopping I noticed that my transmission is also leaking at the rear where it meets the the driveshaft. I also noticed it only leaks when I drive it. Is this because the transmission might be overfilled? Or could it be a bad seal? If I have to remove the driveshaft, what's the best way to do it? I'll add some pics, you can see the oil drip and splatter all over the car. Thanks!
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I had a slight ticking sound in my engine a while ago and decided to adjust my valve lashes. I had no issues adjusting them, but when I put everything back in place I noticed a knocking noise coming from then engine, and it smells like its burning oil, my spark plugs are all black as well. I dont know what might have caused the knocking sound, as it wasn't there before. Could it be a collapsed lifter or a bad stem seal? I'll attach a video of the engine running, you can hear the knocking pretty clearly. This thing is driving me nuts.. I try to fix one problem and end up with 10 new ones. 20180719_194207.mp4
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I noticed my steering wheel doesn't return to center after turning right. The wheels are aligned still, and there is no play, simply off by about 15 degrees on return. The cause is clearly the rack shifting. Any thoughts on what might be causing extra resistance on the front right wheel? (perhaps a common problem, familiar to the s30 veteran) I replaced the rack's bushings. Not only were the old bushings fine, but they didn't solve the snag. The issue started when I put my wider tires back on (they are 215, but there is no interference), clearly the extra load/resistance is adding enough difference on the failing component to causing the rack to hold slightly right (until I turn the other direction). My thought is strut bushing or bearing (my other vehicle had the same issue when I didn't replace the old strut mount but added heavy duty springs). 1975 Datsun 280z (unmodified)
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I took the valve cover off today to adjust my valve lashes, I tried to clean it as much as I could with simple green degreaser. Would it be safe to reattach in this condition? Or should I continue to clean it completely? The seals on the inside around the baffle plate look worn out and I'm worried some of it will get into the engine, some of it chipped off while I was scrubbing it. Is there any way I can scape off the old sealing and re seal the edges? Or do I need a new valve cover?
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MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
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Hello, I recently got my car running this past week after it was in hibernation for over a year. I bought the car in 2014 and never took the time to learn much about what I had. I was hoping someone could help me figure out what has been done to my engine. To my knowledge the motor and computer is from an '83 zx turbo. Also I told by another user that my valve cover breather hose is causing a major vaccum leak. What should I do? This album is from a previous post, but it has a few good pictures of the engine bay and motor. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
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(Not sure where to post this) I cross posted this to members projects as well. Hello, Was browsing multiple forums and decided to try out Hybridz for advice. I bought a 1977 280z Frankenstein of a car with an '83 280zx turbo engine swap in 2014 for around five grand. I drove it around for a year or so and it died on me after removing the previous owners sound system. Life got in the way and the car had a parasitic draw and sat for around 15 months. I just brought it to a shop and had the fuel system flushed with new filters, however, got robbed on the price in my opinion. I did some general maintenance (oil, spark plugs, coolant) and have been driving it around for the past week. The car is far from stock and I was hoping some of you guys could help me by identifying what I have. Any help is much appreciated! Below is a numbered imgur album. Sorry it is alot of pictures. My knowledge is weak and I know I need to find a service manual, but I don't know where to start. Its pretty fast when the turbo kicks in, I believe its running around 12 pounds of boost if the gauge is accurate. Definitely kicks your head back. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb -
Hey guys. I am going to apologize immediately because it has been a while since I posted anything on a forum, and I know all of these sites have different procedures and rules as far as posting goes. I am purchasing a 1972 240z from one of my customers (I am a car salesman and he asked me if I wanted to buy a car while his wife was signing paperwork). He is the original owner. The car has just over 50k miles on it. The entire car has been race prepped to run in SCCA races. The engine was built by Bob Sharp and it has a lot of first gen performance parts on it. The car has been stored in a heated garage since it was purchased, but just like every car from this time period it has some cancer in the metal. The good news is that I was a sheet metal welder, so replacing the sheet metal doesn't worry me. On to my first question. The car has not run since 1991, and the current owner told me that I should check with some knowledgeable people (aka you guys) on what steps I should take to turn over the motor. He knows his stuff when it comes to working on the car because he did most of the work on the car back in the day, but he also said that I should start doing my own research in order to get myself more oriented with the whole restoration process. He did mention something about taking out the spark plugs and pouring some penetrating oil in to loosen up the engine in case it was stuck. So, what steps should I take to turn this baby over? Thanks in advance!
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Hello i am new to this forum so i am not sure im doing this right but. i recently bought a ms2 DIY kit from diyautotune and all was going well until i was instructed to download the firmware. I got the firmware and downloader from msextra, i run the program and i get a message (in picture). i have checked my power multiple times and the megasquirt has passed all the previous tests using the db9 adaptor from diyautune and the stimulator. i have researched everything and can not find any information on how to get the firmware downloaded with this problem. Ive been struggling with this for a total of 7 hours by now and i just want it to work. ive tried everything. HELP ME!!!!! lol.
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I generally keep my car in the garage in the winter. So far, it has only had the occasional struggle starting when left out in the cold. However, this last weekend it was down to -37C, and I was over at a friend's place now it's Tuesday, -10C, and it still wont start (cranks but no firing at all). I have heated it well beyond what it should need to start (using several devices). with no luck. I have found the following, the pump still works, there is spark, it cranks just fine, and it won't start even when jumped. It runs and starts just fine above +5C (with no external heater). There is a possibility the fuel lines have frozen but that seems unlikely, and I have no way to test compression, but I hear that is another possibility. Does anyone have ideas or suggestions?
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Hi all I would like a quick run down of the wiring schematic or any kind of help to get this 1jz started outside of the car. Came with all wiring stock from factory as well as ECU. ECU has four plugs and is a jzx100 motor. Etcs What wires do I need to hook up to get this baby to run
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Hello, I am new to this forum. So far, I have found the search function doesn't work as well as some other forums I am on. So if this topic has been beaten to death I apologize, but I did look (both on here and through google). As many posts here have acknowledged, the stock alternators on the S30 leave much to be desired (particularly at idle). I found sites discussing swapping to smaller diameter pulleys, but only in a generic sense. Therefore, I don't know what the alternator on a 1975 280z can handle ...or if it would even help. Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley in to increase the idle alternator RPM? What are your thoughts and what size might you suggest? Obviously, it will wear faster and I don't want to over spin it. On the note of wear, what do you think of swapping for a clutched pulley while I am at it? If no one answers, I will just try swapping in a internally regulated 70-Amp alternator from a 1986 300zx.
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Hello everyone! I hope you are all having a pleasant day. I recently bought a 1970 240z after saving money for a long time. I was excited and said that it will be easy, that I am gonna build it within the next few months. I was naive and after reading a certain post on this website, i was "enlightened". "For the newbie car guys on this forum.. New to building Z cars and etc.." Is the post I read. I now want to take my time to enjoy building the car and learn as much as i can through this "journey". I would like to mention that there is no budget concerning this project since I think it will last a life time Here I am now to ask all of you who have experienced building a Z. I ask you for all the advice you can give me and to answer any question listed below if you please. If you think there is a link that will answer or help me in anyway, go ahead and add it. 1. What would you recommend to have in a garage in order to modify a car in general? I am new to this so please list everything you deem necessary 2. What are the reasons you chose a certain engine? The Z i bought has an rb25de neo and I wondering about the positives and negatives about the engines (2JZ, SR20DET, RB26DETT, etc) 3. For a newbie like me, what would you recommend I do in order to gain more experience? 4. Where do I begin? 5. Which differential do you use and why? This is my first time posting so I do apologize for any grammer/spelling mistakes as English is not my first language. I also do not know what information am I missing in this post so, if there is anything you would like to know about me or the Z, please ask away! Regards! -
While putting on the front suspension parts together I realize I have these, but I don't know where they go. Good luck P.s. Don't mind my white ass feet -
I have a 260z thats wiring wise all stock. My fuel, clock and tach(sometimes) gauges all work. My voltage is stuck somewhere in negative so I'm not sure if thats electrical issues involving alternator but i don't mind that one not working. My oil and water gauge does not work. I have a newly bought oil sender, the bullet type water temp sender(is this the sender) with single bullet connector connected but the sensor next to it with two wires coming out isn't connected because they were cut completely off. I took off gauge and put battery + terminal to ign(G) and the black wire to ground. i then grounded my oil wire(Y/B) and it only moves to the 0 position. i thought it was supposed to move all the way? Is the gauge bad? Any help is appreciated as i really can't afford one right now and don't want to run my car without either of these gauges. Also how can i tell if my water pump is working? I have no leaks but i feel the engine gets very hot very quickly. I took the radiator cap off and i thought bubbles would come out or you would see the coolant flowing or moving but it was very still. I'm afraid thats also bad.
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hey guys I currently have a stock 76 280Z and i was wondering if it would be possible to get 16x9 with a 15 offset on without the use of flares ( not a huge fan of flares ) im pretty sure i would need to get my fender rolled but i still need some more knowledge on this. If i could fit them what about tire sizes and etc ? Also i may lower the car with eibach springs in the next couple of months will i still be good without the flares then ? thank you for any help
