Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

[toolman]

Thanks, Hu91gt,  I just returned from a business trip to Las Vegas.   While there, I made some time to visit Harbor Freight.   Purchased their Vibratory Tumbler for $54.   Plan to

use it to clean up some of my parts for powder coating.

  This is their 5 LB version but have a bigger 15 LB available too.

 

 

All parts were first washed in solvent to  remove oils and grease then blown dry.   Painted parts were treated with paint removers to remove most of the paint as possible.  Then, items were put into the hopper and run for about a hour.   24grit aluminum oxide used in the vibratory tumbler to remove even more rust and paint.  Finally the parts were sandblasted in the cabinet.

 

Finally, the parts were washed with Lacquer Thinner before powder coating.   In those stubborn cases, a wire wheel was used to speed up the cleaning process.

 

To get more powder coating space in my small toaster,  I placed the oven vertically and installed a 3/8" round steel rod to hang parts from.

 

.032 Aviation Safety wire to hang up the parts in the spraying cabinet and coating oven.

Safety Wire is really strong, flexible and can be used over and over before replacing.

 

A Double Extra Long Nose Plier was extremely useful in the tight confines of my spray cabinet and coating oven.

 

Note-Multiple parts can be attached by utilizing Safety Wire.

 

 

 

All of the Threaded parts should chased with the correct Thread Chaser( internal and external).   Taps and Dies will overcut the threads.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 27, 2019 by toolman

[walkerbk]

I'm interested to see how the bolts hold up when being installed. I figured the powder coat would chip off when you put a wrench on it. If not, I know what I will be doing a lot of.

[toolman]

walkerbk,  I had many items powder coated by a professional shop before this project and have good results.   Powder coating is even stronger than polyurethane paint if full cured.

I setup a demonstration of powder coating using some of my power coated samples. 

First, powder coating being hit with pointed side of a body hammer.

 

 

 

 

 

Next, Hitting with a round punch

Note-the powder coating is dented but didn't peel off..

Hitting a sharp punch with a hammer

 

The results are:

  Only the sharp punch pierced the powder coating.  Top view

 

  Bottom side of test panel shows the dents and the sharp indention

 

I decided to clean up and powder coat more parts.    By doing this now,  I would discover any parts that needed to be replaced instead of waiting till final assembly.

So parts were organized in Ziplock sandwich bags for the small items.   Ziplock  large freeze  bags handled most of the larger parts.   The bags were all marked to

identify the parts.

 

           

 

The following pics will show what powder coating can do in a restoration project:

  Before

 

  After Powder Coating

 

 

Hatch hinges after Powder Coating.

 

Hatch Lock Assembly after Powder Coating

 

Hood Lock Assembly after Powder Coating

top view      bottom view

 

Hatch Guide Plates

Before     After

  

Door Catch Assembly and shim after Powder Coating

 

Assorted fasteners after Powder Coating

          

240Z emblems before Powder Coating'

             After Powder Coating and Brush Painting             

The windshield washer nozzles were cracked in several places.   They were repaired by putting brass tubing(from Hobby Shop) over the cracks.  Then

lead soldering them in.   Painted them Silver after priming.

 

Hood Striker after powder Coating

 

Hand Brake Cable Brackets after Powder Coating

 

Originally I thought I would only be Powder Coating the Under Carriage parts of the car but ended up doing so much more.   And still have a lot more to do.

Edited April 7, 2019 by toolman
additional infor, new pics

[toolman]

I found that putting screws on a bamboo paint mixing stick to be a good holder of this type of items to be powder coated.

The hole in the stick provides a way to hang it up in the oven.

 

Cracked Interior plastic panels were  repaired using Urethane Supple Plastic Welder with UniFlex rods.

 

Finally got those white plastic headlight adjusting screws mounts from Ebay.  Took a month for it to come from China.

  Finally assemblied.   

 

I managed get a Whirlpool oven( was only 3 yrs old} for $50.  It was hardly used and now I can powder coat larger stuff.

 

Put four swivel casters on a dolly to make it easier to move around my garage.

 

The first item to be powder coated was the Datsun trim on the top of the rocker panel.

Just fit!!

 

Picture of both of the Datsun Trim pieces after Super Chrome and Clear powder coating.

 

Front Marker Lights before Powder Coating.

 

Marker Light assembly after Powder Coating. The original light assembly was removed and replaced with a DOT LED light assembly.

 

Pic of the Door Lock Assembly after cleaning and sandblasting.  

Note-Be sure to removr all plastic and rubber components before putting in the oven.

 

I used Mechanics Time Saver Hot stop which is Gel that absorbs heat when welding or heating near vulnerable parts.  I don't think this brand is still made.  But look

in plumbing supplies etc for similar products.  It really works and evaporates away in 48 hours.

 

 

The front stabilizer bar mounts and shim plates after Powder Coating.

 

Pics of Interior Door Opener after Powder Coating.

 

After Flat Black Paint applied to assembly.

 

Dorr Handles Powder Coated

 

Unfortunately, the horns can not be Powder Coating as the Heat may damage their internal coils.

 

 My front crossmember had to be send out to the Powder Coaters as it was too big for me to do even in my New Oven.   When it is finished, I will start to reassembly the front and rear suspension.   My Rocket Bunny kit should come in by Summer time.   So the next thing on my agenda is seeing if I can make a Wheel and Tire Fitment Tool for my Z.

 

 

 

Edited April 23, 2019 by toolman
wrong pics

[240zJJR]

I have been powder coating all my parts as well for my project. I am blessed to have a good friend who does all my powder and sandblasting. I just finished the headlight assemblies and retro fitted dapper LED7 lights and also finished the wiper assembly. I took everything apart right to nothing. Reason i did this was that sometime powder coating can seize things up or make them bind and not work correctly.

 

So my question to you is. The hood hinges at the front of the car that you powder coated, does it move freely and not bind up? This will determine if i will powder coat it or not. This piece can not be separated into smaller pieces from what i can tell.

 

Thanks Jeff

Edited April 23, 2019 by 240zJJR

[toolman]

Jeff, Yes, the hood hinges are riveted together and can not be taken apart.    When I removed the hinges from my Toater oven, they were a little stiff.  But with opening and closing them a few times, they were fine.   But there are plastic bushings used in the rear hatch hinges so be careful.   I would use some kind of  Heat Absorbing Gel just to be sure if I was you.  The door latches also use small rubber bumpers in them.   Powder Coating is thick and will tighten clearances a lot.   Use heat tape and silicon plugs when possible.   Hope this information helps you.

[toolman]

   I hope you guys don't find my post on my Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool too long.   I gave a detailed account of its construction in case someone wanted to build for their own.

This tool was build with full adjustability { wheel diameter, wheel width, tire width,etc) in mind.   However, if that feature is  not necessary in your case, deleting the adjustable feature can be skipped and built with specific specifications in mind.   By going this route, this tool can be built in only one weekend.

    The materials of this build are:  one 1 1/2" x  1/8"  x  20 feet of metal strap ( from metal supplier is the cheapest)

                                                            one  2" x  1/8" x  20 feet

                                                            one  2' x 2' x 1/8"  plate steel

                                                             Total Cost-$ 35   less if you buy only what is needed

  Most of the work is done with a 4 1/2" right angle grinder with about Six 1/32" metal cutoff wheels

                                                         Two   4 1/2 metal grinding wheels

 

Because of my crowded garage. I used my Powder coating stove for my designing desk.

 

My first design of the Fitment Tool.

 

 Actually I started drilling the hole with a 3" hole saw but the process was going slow.   So I used my Plasma Cutter instead and cut the hole in less than a minute.

 

Next, the Lug Holes were drilled out.   I went to the Three Leg Version instead of the Two Legged version as I felt the Two Legged version would tend to "goosehead" the tire.   While the Three Legged version would not distort the tire casing.

 

  Mocking up the tool in a vise with the legs supported by visegrips.

 

Now for the three Sliding Track supporting the tire to be built.

I scribed  two lines 1/4" from the each side of the 2" x 1/8" strap.  These line provide the guide for using a  4 1/2" cutoff wheel to grind about 85% through the strap.  This procedure will allow the edges to bent up 90 degrees to create the 2" strap into a 1 1/2" channel.  The channel will guide the adjustable plates to slide on.   Also, the channel construction will add greatly to the structural strength.    In the center of the channel, 1/4" groove was scribed out for the 1/4" fastening bolt to run in.

Then,  two !/4" holes were drilled on both ends of the scribed groove.

 

The 4 1/2" grinder with 1/32" cutoff wheels made repeated passes over the scribed lines till the groove was completely cut out. Following  that-File the edges of the groove to remove any burrs and sharp edges.

 

Pic of Support Channel grooved and edges bent up 90 degrees.  Channel width-should be ! 1/2" to

allow the 1 1/2" plates to slid smoothly along the channel.

 

A 1/4" steel rod was  tack welded to bottom of the bent 90 degree edge for additional support and

provide a sliding guide of the legs.

 

 

These brackets were made to be attached to the top of the Channel Support with 1/4" bolts.   Each pair will seat on the top of the inner tire bead and hold the tire in place.

 

  Bubble levels checked the Horizontal and Vertical axis of the Three Legs and were welded up,

.

 

  Pic of the Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool components

 

 

Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool mocked up on a Test tire'

 

Still have to construct the adjustable design for the different tire sizes and measurement aspects.  What do you guys think about this tool tool so far?

Barring any major problems, I will give a step by step guide to use this tool on my next posting.

 

 

,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                              

Edited May 13, 2019 by toolman
add pic, correct text

[SleeperZ]

Genius!

[toolman]

To improved this tool to able to do even 20" diameter wheels,  I modified its design.   This was done by extending its main body.

 

This new design should  now allow the tool to handle from 15" to 20" wheel diameters.

  The new fabricated main body laying over the design plans.

 

Pic of the Clamping Slots that will allow the legs to be adjustable and still be able to lock them in place.

a 1/4" bolt holds the leg extension in place.

 

The Tire Bead Holding Clamps originally had fixed channel that the tire bead sat in.  By adding a 1/4" adjusting bolt, would add additional clamping

of the tire bead.   Also.the bolts built with the bolts coming from the outside to provide ease of adjustment.

 

All of the tool components were powdercoated    Measurement lines were created by grooving the metal with a 1/32" cutoff wheel on a 4 1/2 grinder.  Then,numbers and letters were hammer stamped then painted white to make them more visually attractive.

Legs #2 and #3 were notched on the bottom to provide clearance for 15" diameter wheels.

The Sliding Track was also grooved for Wheel Width measurements from 6" to 12".

 

 

The Tire Bead Clamps used 1/4" bolts and !/4" Wing Nuts to clamp to the beads.  Also, White grooved Line would indicate the Wheel Width Size.

 

Pic of Main Body and 3 Leg extensions.

Wheel Diameters from 15" to 20"in 1" increments with White measurement Lines and Numbers.  Note: All individual parts are numbered to aid in assembly.

 

This portion of the post I will go through the installation of this Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool on a Tire.  Place the tire in the Upright Position.

The Tool will be installed with #1 Leg  in the Top postion.  First, Place the Two Legs #2 and #3 into the lower area of the tire.

The Two Inside Bead Clamps should be installed at Max end of Slot.  The Outside Clamps ae now installed into the tire beams but not tightened down yet.

 

Put the Main Body into the tire on the Lower Tracks.   Install bolts and nuts but leave them loose.

Set the Wheel Diameter, in this case, to18" then tighten down.  Also, adjust other side

adjust and tighten down.

 

Place Sliding Tracking #1 on #1 Leg Extension lift up into the upper tire bead with both #1 Bead Clamps(bolts and wing nuts) into the beads.

Bead Clamps can be slipped in from the sides of the clamps if necessary before tightening up.

 

 

Check the Wheel Diameter Measurement Lines.  They should be all at 18", adjust if necessary.

Tighten all Bead Clamps bolts just enough so the clamps don't move.

The last adjustment is the Wheel Offset.   Tighten the Leg Extension to Rail bolts after you set offset that you want.

With a straight edge, measure from the back side of the tool to the straight edge.

With this measurement, you compared it to the Zero Wheel Offset which is 1/2 of the  Wheel Width, in this case, both measurements are 4" so the offset

is Zero Offset.    To test Wheel/Tire fitment on your vehicle, you must place a jack under the lower control arm to support the vehicles weight( as the this tool  can not support a car weight).   Leave a small gap between tire and ground then turn the tire and tool full left and right turns.   Check for any interference.   By altering tire diameters, tire widths and wheel  offset on this tool, you can easily determine the proper tire/ wheel combination for your particular application.

 

Tightening the legs to set the Wheel offset.

 

 

tightening Bead holding bolt.

 

pic showing Wheel Width, in this case, was 8 inches.

 

 

This Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool should end all those "How big of a tire can fit on my car" questions?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 20, 2019 by toolman
text

[LLave]

That is amazing. You should rent it out. I would rent it. 

[toolman]

LLave,Thanks for the praise.  Unfortunately, I live in Hawaii so shipping would be a problem.   If anyone interested in making a simplified version themselves for about $50 materials and their own labor.  I think that I can draw up some" Do it Yourself" plans for its construction.  Only 4 1/2 grinder and a drill would be needed for it construction.  I think it could be made in a days time.   Please post your interest in "Do it Yourself" plans so I know people are interested. Then I try to come up with the plans and post on the forum.

     I found this on the Internet.   Anybody who does woodworking or has a Sand Blaster needs it.   It is called Dustopper.  It acts like a Prefilter to your Shop Vac.  It has no moving parts and runs forever.   Uses the Cyclone effect of the Vacuum to separate about of the  larger debris { about 90%) before the Vac.

pic of the Dustopper

The only things that also needed beside a 5 gallon bucket are some vacuum hose adapters.

I used NAPA radiator hose # 7746 and cut off a section to create a 2 1/2" to 2" reducer.

The Dustopper with 5 gallon bucket.  The bottom bucket was not used and the

Dustopper and 5 gallon bucket was placed under the Sand Blasting Cabinet.

 

Before the Dustopper even after a short time of sand blasting. the Shop Vac filter would be covered with dust particles.

Even the inside of the filter would have dust.

The bottom of the 5 gallon caught most of

the dust.

Bottom of Shop Vac-only a little fine dust was found there.

If you use the Dustopper is used for wood working, almost all of the wood shavings and saw dust will be caught in the Prefilter.

The Dustopper is sold at Home Depot for about $49 and reducer hose was about $10.  There are several different dust catchers

available(Dust Depty,Cyclone,etc) but I think this one is the Best One.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

Edited June 1, 2019 by toolman
text

[HuD 91gt]

That’s a pretty neat device. Thanks for sharing! I frequent Hawaii pretty often for work, what island are you on? 

[toolman]

Finally, Got the front cross member back from the Powdercoaters.   It was too big and require more heat than my stove could handle.

 

 

Started to clean up the front suspension parts for powder coating.   But first. the lower control arm bushings had to be removed.

 

I used a air chisel to push out center metal part and surrounding rubber from the control arm.

Then, use a Sawzall to cut two grooves about 80% through the outer part of the bushing.  Be careful not to cut the control arm.

 

Now, use the air chisel blade on the groove and chisel it.  If done correctly, the bushing will tend to curl up and collapse on itself without damaging the control arm.

Ready to sandblast and powder coating.   Be sure it tape the bushing area with high

temperature tape  or you might have to sand any powder coating that got in there later

Unfortunately about this time, my wife had an accident while driving her Scion.   She hit a  Toyota Tacoma.  So I spent two weekends

fixing her car.   Only good thing about the situation was I got a chance to paint the damaged area with Sherwin Williams Single Stage 

Polyurethane Black Metallic/Clear  paint.  Ir was easy to work with and came out good.

Right door and fender were damaged.

 

One of my customers offered me his old Snap On 12 ton floor press for Free!!  It was not working but I knew I could fix it.  First, I disassemble

it and used  a 4 1/2 " wire wheel to remove the rust and old paint.

The Main Frame was welded together so it was way stronger the Harbor Freight ones.

Worn gloves and safety goggles as the grinding wires fly everywhere.

 

Sprayed Polyurethane Gray Primer on the parts.

Painted the press with Rustoleum Sunshine Red.

 

I had two 12 ton hydraulic bottle jacks -one was hand operated and the other was air over hydraulic one.   I used the hand one for now as I needed t

press the OEM rubber control arm bushings in.   If needed, I can install the air over hydraulic bottle at a late time.

 

 

Lower front control arms with new bushing installed.

 

I used two temporary ram return springs to install the control arm bushings.   The hopefully correct springs should get here by next week.

The press should very useful to bend thick steel and installing bushings and bearings in the rear suspension.

 

Edited June 23, 2019 by toolman
wrong pic

[toolman]

I managed to locate couple of Lincoln floor jack springs for my bottle jack on Ebay .  According its specifications, they should work.

  They worked!!

 

Next, I fabricated a jack handle from a 1" water pipe.

  Capped one end and grooved it so it could be a control valve and used as pump handle for the bottle jack. 

After I finished the accident damage to my wife's Toyota Scion XD,  I noticed that there was a lot of grinding dust from my Z bodywork on the car.   If not removed, the metal particles would start to rust.   The best thing to use for this job is Clay Magic.   It removes particles, over spray,etc and it does not wear off clear or paint..

                  

Basically, all you do is rub the piece of Clay Magic over the surface of the vehicle.

As you rub also spray Clay Magic Lubricant to allow the clay to move easily.  After rubbing , you stop and kneel the clay( this pushes the contaminates into the clay.  Wipe the area dry with a rag.  You keep repeating this process until the surface is smooth and clean.  Note-Be sure not to drop the clay on the ground as the large particles will contaminate your Clay.    I put a Blue tarp on the ground to prevent this from happening.

After Claying the car, I used a Dewalt polisher and 3M rubbing compound to remove any imperfections.

  Finished car!!

 

 Now, Back of the Z, Both areas in the front portions of the rocker panels had to be patched yet.

Due to all of the curved surfaces of the rocker panel. this patch work would be a little more demanding.

  First. the ridge lines must be formed.

 

After shaping, the patch was test fitted.

Cleco clips held the patch to eliminate as much gaps as possible.   The alignment lines make sure the patch is installed in the right position.

 

After positioning patch, it was

mig welded in.

 

After which, the mig welds were covered with Epoxy to prevent any water leakage.

then the area was covered with body filler.

 

The right side rocker panel had similar rust damage.

 

The right side patch being test fitted.

the black lines indicate high edges.

 

        Shaping of the patch

 

 Right side patch after body filler and poly primer.

 

 

Left side rocker panel

Note, extra rustproofing holes top and bottom of rocker panel were drilled for future rustproofing then be plugged up.

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

Edited July 2, 2019 by toolman

[toolman]

   I decided to make my battery tray removable in case,  I wanted to replace it with a stainless steel one.   For me, the best way to install the tray would be to use threaded inserts.

So after painting the engine compartment with Polyurethane Single stage paint,  I mocked up the tray on the engine compartment.

Drilled 1/8" pilot holes to hold the tray in position.

 

But because OD tray over hang,  a right angle drill adaptor was used on my drill.'

 

Then, used Cleco Clips to hold the tray in place.

Then,  holes on the compartment panel to drilled oversize to accommodate the 6mm threaded inserts.  The tray was also drilled larger for the retaining bolts.

A Astro Pneumatic threaded insert hand riveter was utilized for insert installation.

 

But because the riveter requires a lot of space to be used, some inserts had to be installed manually.

So,  a longer 6mmx1.0 x 20mm bolt with two nuts as spacers had to be used.

Turning the bolt clockwise while holding the nut spacers with a visegrip becomes a manual threaded insert tool.   The tool takes longer but can be use in really tight spaces.

In this case,  a 8mm wrench was used.

 

After add another two coats of Polyurethane paint to the engine compartment,  I decided to drill additional rust proofing holes on the engine compartment and rocker panel.

A Blair 1/2" hole saw was used as it provides a clean and burr less hole.

Also, if used properly, the cutout section tends to hold on to the hole saw when finished drilling.

 

  Left window cowl side    Right window cowl side

 

Interior rear roof bracing( near the roof and rear quarter panel joint)

 

The major area of corrosion for this car was the four corners of the rocker panel.   These area are double boxed for strength and not easily rust proofed.   So in these areas, I had

to drill the exterior hole 1/2" to followed by another 1/2" hole to the inner box section.    I plan to use a Borescope when rustproofing to make sure I don not miss any potential rust

areas.

Tthere is total of 5 rust proofing holes on L/F rocker panel section. Two more

on the bottom area.

Right side bottom rust proofing holes.

 

Left center rocker panel section 

 

All exterior 1/2" rust proofing holes will plugged with plastic plugs after rust proofing.   Only exterior water drainage holes won't plugged and will stay open.

[HuD 91gt]

Loved the manual insert tool! Wish I thought of that a few weeks back during some work.

[toolman]

Threaded inserts-5MM -.8 were used to fastening the roof of the cowl vent.

This will allow easy removal at a later date.

5MM-.8 stainless steel screws hold  on the roof section.

 

Finished cowl vent.

 

The battery tray was finished using seven  8mm-125 stainless steel bolts and threaded inserts to hold it down.

 

The four 1" holes in the frame rails were plugged by 1 1/4" white plastic plugs found on Ebay.

                

A 1" clear plastic hose was inserted into the plug.  This forced the plastic arms to expand outward and provided a tight fit.

 

After installing the engine crossmember, I needed to replace the camber eccentric in them.  Old ones were worn out.

 

69-70 Dodge Darts had similar ones.  This is NAPA version of eccentric camber adjusters for only $25 for two.

          

 

Locking nut side

 

    Camber Adjusting nut side

 

This kit gives about Plus or Minus One degree Camber adjustment.   Installation only requires slotting the bolt hole and  a little welding.

 

Next Topic is the Hood Hinge torsion spring installation.   First, install  in either hinge, all  the three mounting bolts.   On the other side hinge,  loosely install only the mounting bolt on the hinge nearest firewall.   Plastic tie was used to hold the first rod(one on the left] in stationary position

and also hold the second rod with hat in the swivel bracket.

 

    The plastic tie in the rods center holds them place.

 

 

Remove the loose bolt from hinge and move hinge assembly outward.   This gives you more working area.

I used a 5 gallon bucket to provide support of the hinge while twisting the second rod with hat.  A strong twist is required to put the hat 

into the swivel bracket.

  Cut off all plastic ties. 

The finished installation.

 

 

 

Left side strut and tension bar installed.

 

I have not decided what coil over setup to use yet so using stock (except Progessive Coil spring installed) for now.

 

Steering rack and stabilizer bar installed.                                                                                                                                                                                           

 

Edited July 23, 2019 by toolman
corrections

[Neverdone]

I do so love the insane amount of attention to detail you're putting into this. You're going to have a flawless car when this is all done. 

 

Keep up the great work!

[Richard Oben]

dddrrrrooooooooollllll   R

[grannyknot]

Sorry to have to tell this but your camber adjustment is all negative, the outside of your slot starts where the original hole was and the slot goes inboard so any adjustment is neg camber, I tried something similar and ran into the same problem so had to cut off the right angle flange on the outside of the cross member, add more steel plate so the slot could go into the positive  then weld a right angle flange back on. The 1st pic is stock

Edited July 24, 2019 by grannyknot