wolfsburgedition Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 THis is great stuff. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Here is my upgrade and why it belongs on this page: #1: Fuse block uses AGU fuses which are cheaper than Maxifuses or Breakers. #2: Fuse block was purchased on Ebay for $11.00 which is less than 1/2 of retail. I followed the instructions in the "AtlanticZ" link in the fusible link post that if you search for you will find. Just be careful, in my Z all the wiring was white with red stripe, real easy to get confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan1 Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Cheap Sound Deadening for cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team_infidel Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Here are some pix of the rod mounts for the front suspension. are those push pull tubes from the flight controls? damn i hate to be the pilot finding that on preflight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 are those push pull tubes from the flight controls? damn i hate to be the pilot finding that on preflight. Yes they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernS30 Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Some great info here, lets keep this going, As soon as I get some I will post up. I do have to say. I am going to be replacing my fusible links with the Radio amp fuses, the 2 fuse block from wal-mart, 2 of those, they are 12 each, I am sure Ebay would end up cheaper. But use two of those and a piece of amp wire from the possible on the battery. Then run the 4 white/red wires as normal from the 4 output sides. Oh, investing in a decent pneumatic setup will pay of, ie, Air Drill with wire wheel and other attachments, cutting wheel, paint gun, and other such tools, can prove useful in rust removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k14 Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 As many of you know, some parts aren't available any more and you have to go scrounging. My '74 260z has inspired several scrounging trips. I recently repaired a window regulator, it had a bad roller and a screwed up plastic guide. I used a "Prime-Line" 3/4" diameter shower door roller to replace a broken roller (available at Lowes). I wouldn't want to replace all the rollers with them, but it works fine for just one. The window assembly has a plastic bar that slides in the guide near the front of the door. Mine was gouged badly and the mounting tabs were partially broken. I roughed the plastic bar with 80 grit and cleaned it thoroughly with xylol. I kneaded some Versa-Chem "Magnum Steel" (available at O'Reillys) and rough formed it with my fingers. After it dried, I shaped it with some sandpaper. Luckily I was able to pop rivet the bar back onto the window assembly. It has worked well so far. I serviced the heater box and soon discovered that the air ducting was a dirty mess. It required new flexible tubing with a 2" I.D. I found a vacuum hose replacement kit at Lowes that works very well. It was $19.00. The kit has 8' of flexible vacuum hose and the fit is perfect. I had about 10" of hose left after I replaced all the worn duct. The part is Shop-Vac 2 1/2" x 8' Lock On vacuum hose. Don't let the 2 1/2" on the box fool you, the hose is actually 2" ID. Hope this helps. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 As many of you know, some parts aren't available any more and you have to go scrounging. My '74 260z has inspired several scrounging trips. Good stuff, thanks a bunch!! That is what this thread is all about right there!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northstarninja Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 (edited) Its almost hypnotic, isn't it? Wow, went out at 2am and got some washing soda... I wonder if the voltage/amperage has to be stronger for a larger volume of water... If so, how much washing soda and current would need to be used for a pool? (j/k) Out of curiousity, does the temperature of the water matter? I'm guessing that the reaction would happen faster in distilled warm, hot water... Is the black stuff left over still rust, technically? can it be painted over, or does it need to be removed as well? Edited March 5, 2010 by Northstarninja Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srbigbutt Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Wow, went out at 2am and got some washing soda... I wonder if the voltage/amperage has to be stronger for a larger volume of water... If so, how much washing soda and current would need to be used for a pool? (j/k) Out of curiousity, does the temperature of the water matter? I'm guessing that the reaction would happen faster in distilled warm, hot water... Is the black stuff left over still rust, technically? can it be painted over, or does it need to be removed as well? I've used a garbage can full of liquid with just a few spoon fulls and it worked fine. Make sure you clean all the black stuff off with soapy water. If not, it will just turn back into rust. It will be a nice black color once you are done and then it needs to be painted or treated somehow or it will rust even quicker than before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjc5500 Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 surprised that no one said it. help section assorted door hinge bushings work great to fix a sloppy shifter. IIRC its the chrystler bushings you use. press, them in, file them to fit in the trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 Here's a huge one for 280z and 280zx owners. I have not researched this, but it seems like it makes sense. I got this tidbit from a fellow car guy. An alternate source for a fuel pump is from EFI'd Volvos. They also use Bosch L or K-Jetronic fuel injection, so it stands to reason the feed on the injectors would require the same fuel PSI. The junkyard closest to my house is filled with clunker Volvo's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1973240 Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 sorry this is long and rambles.. this ones theoretical cause i havent gotten this far but im thinking about doing my own dash because i have eletrical problems that seem unending and i personally see it easier to write my own diagrams seperating all the systems out so they no longer entangle other systems when they have problems.. anyhoo my point was that in this process i decided that if the means are there id like to do a homemade metal dash and just do toggle switches for everything... so heres the thrifty/neat part.. for the dash lights, im doing away with the combo switch and just wiring an on off toggle so i thought hey, i could use a volume pot (potentiometer) from a guitar (tone knob should be same) as a dimmer right? might look kinda cool on the metal dash too i think... btw im trying to build a challenger right now (not like i have money) and i have a complete 71 coronet 4 door driver that i got for 850 with a factory 383. although this is the wrong website for such a car, it kinda follows suit if any of you are also mopar guys. basically the only things i need to buy to make a roller challenger a driver is this $850 four door and a different driveshaft.. and i found discs for $100 but thats kinda optional i guess.. i think even the windshields are the same! oh the power of prayer! and just as a final note... i think the reason im begining to like zs more than mopars is the community that comes with. see theres tons of datsun guys that are thrifty and make things work just like me and arent afraid to take an already sweet car and make it AWSOME! and challenger guys seem to only restore cars and never drive them to the point where the praised thriftiness of this thread seems rather frowned upon on mopar forums... GO DATSUN!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 (edited) On the pesky, tiny, rubber vaccum lines in the 280Z's, that keep splitting at the ends where they fit onto a Tee or coupler. You keep cutting the split end off and it cracks again next week. Get some silicone RC fuel line, slip it OVER the end of the vacuum line and then get a slightly larger Tee or coupler that fits the silicone fuel line...no more splits! Edited February 15, 2011 by cygnusx1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santanawhite Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Interesting thread. Especially that rust removal thing. Any new tricks up those sleeves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 (edited) Does anyone try to use fuse/relay box in engine bay from some newer car? like 240sx? Edited November 8, 2012 by tamo3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN 1 Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 I have a 1986 Nissan pick up. It is a four cylinder with two spark plugs for each cylinder. It has developed an irritating choking down when i press over half throttle. Clears up when I let up on the gas pedal. Thought the problem might be an old fuel filter, but can't locate one in that fuel injection nightmare. I am an old man from the old days of flathead engines and carbuerators. Smog controls and fuel injection set ups just baffle me. Is it possible, has it been done, to replace the fuel injection set up with an intake manifold that supports two "duces". I could understand this better than what's on the rig now and have a better chance to work on it myself and maintain it. DAN 1 "The Old RetroBate". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annakim Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Hearing cheaper is good to me, by that i can save my money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midri Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 (edited) I'm thinkin giant fiberglass tub with fittings to hook a pump to circulate the sodium bicarbonate/water solution, hooked up directly to a 220v, then another tub right next to that, same size, containing an acid to remove all the black leftover stuff. I think with the liquid in motion it would take a lot less time. I also know that I will probably never do this, but it's fun to think about. I know it's a super old post, but for anyone thinking about doing this... I just wanted to point out this would be a horrible idea unless you first converted your 220v from the socket to DC. If you use AC you're just going to rust it more. Edited August 12, 2013 by Midri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randallwayne221 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Hey guys, new to hybridZ iv got a 79' 280z.no rust if you can believe that! Well im in the prosses of having a nice l28 build.just waiting for my head to get back from rebello racing. Let me know your thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts