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Found 131 results

  1. Base Map N42/N47 l28et

    So I cant seem to reply to the map sharing thread. So here is my base tune for those with a completely stock l28et N42/N47 engine combo. This is for stock injectors and J pipe. Only modifications are exhaust work 2.5" exhaust ported header and turbo. This tune was after some trial and error to say the least. I ran 8 degrees more timing in my first tune for a few months and it eventually showed signs of detonation issues. Brought it down 4 degrees and took it out for a test drive but over boosted to 11 psi on stock Jpipe and blew the gasket. So after another gasket I got me a pair of det cans and found that I needed to take more timing out. So I took yet another 4 degrees out and it woke up the power in boost and its 8 degrees lower than a set up I ran with detonation that took months to show signs of damage. So this tune should be safe for almost any l28et but is recommended for a stock PSI N series head with dish pistons. The VE table was tuned in auto tune and high RPM AFRs are in the high 10s. I drive this car once in a while and with no AE or EGO control just running off the VE table, cold start enrichment and Ignition table it runs very smoothly with no lean surge or anything of that sort and it has solid high 15.7 AFR cruising at 3000rpm on the freeway. Good luck
  2. hi guys. I'm still trying to find why my car runs like crap, after 3 years (although I'm doing less and less about it. project fatigue combined with lack-of-a-clue-paralysis). Part of the problem is that I bought someone else's project (complete) "that only needed to be taken to the dyno for a tune," and since I didn't build it myself, I'm not sure what could be wrong in the set up. Issues i'm having is that it runs rough, both at idle and when driving. It'll misfire pretty much all the time, espcially under boost (but not ALWAYS). It's got a megasquirt, but it's essentially untuneable; I'll work on getting some ok AF mixtures, only for the AF ratios to go crazy for a week or two, then to change again... there are a few other weird things, but.. that's not the point of today's topic.... I've been thinking that my stock, original coil might be a little old, maybe not producing enough voltage anymore, or skipping some ignition events... but there is also the ignition module between the Megasquirt and the coil; that could also be faulty, I've seen set ups where the MS2 runs the coil directly... (DIYautotune https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/)... so really, I know I could modify my MSII to run the coil directly, is there a benefit to having a ignition module? should I even be looking at it? Thanks. Seb
  3. Thoughts on 280zx Turbo Parts Car?

    Hey everyone! So I'm planning on picking up this 280zx Turbo next week. I want to use the engine, wiring harness, etc. for a turbo build for my 260z and I figured it'd be easier to buy the whole car than to piece everything together separately. Would anything else off this car be useful to me? The only thing is it's an automatic but I could find a 5 speed from an N/A? He's asking $1500, I'll post a link below and would love to hear what you think it's worth. Thanks! https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-datsun-nissan-280-zx/6377046535.html -Austin
  4. getting ready to start the paint process on my s130. i barely have useable trim and weatherstripping but would make for much less of headache if i can find any peice of trim or weatherstripping. mainly looking for windshield and rear hatch glass trim and any weather stripping. thank you for any help
  5. hi guys! Realized today that not only do I have some water leaking from my t-top seal (right at the top of the a pillar, where the car seal meets the t-top seal), but I have quite the air gad where the window meets the b-pillar.. I'm guessing the seal has sagged and lost elasticity after all these years and isn't pushing on the window anymore. My current budget for the whole car (and there a quite a few things due) is zero dollars. so I was thinking of being creative to fix the seal. I though of maybe injecting something that would "inflate" the seal, ideally some kind of rubber foam of some sort, but that would be messy and inconsistent at best. Then I realized that most weather seals are essentially rubber tubes, and that I could possibly insert a rubber tube within the weatherstrip, which would basically make it behave like new. I checked it out online and found two references wher people had successufully done this with other cars (this is one, the other is a youtube vid doing the same thing ish... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body/741222-t-top-car-help.html) I was curious if anyone had any old seals that were cut up so i can get a picture of the cross section. It could tell me if the idea would work on tour seals and what diameter tube I could potentially use, as a bonus.... also, any opinions or suggestions are welcomed
  6. WTB L28 Oil Pan

    Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.
  7. Hello, I recently got my car running this past week after it was in hibernation for over a year. I bought the car in 2014 and never took the time to learn much about what I had. I was hoping someone could help me figure out what has been done to my engine. To my knowledge the motor and computer is from an '83 zx turbo. Also I told by another user that my valve cover breather hose is causing a major vaccum leak. What should I do? This album is from a previous post, but it has a few good pictures of the engine bay and motor. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
  8. I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!
  9. Hi! The doors on my 280zx are rattling (partly cause the striker is worn) and the rubber cover/ bumper on the drivers side door switch is worn through, which makes the metal striker hit the door AND makes the door light turn on all the time (its great when the car thinks your door is opened overnight. Does wonder to battery charge) Two questions: 1. Can anyone tell me the original, brand new diameter for the plastic part of the door striker? I'll try to 3d print a replacement and see if that can work (possibly with a rubber core.. I'll post something somewhere if it works) 2. Can anyone tell me of a good place to buy the rubber cover for the door switches? Looking for price as a primary criteria... Thanks! Seb
  10. Selling my 1980 280ZX

    Clean title 119k miles Really reliable just did a 190 mile trip with it not a single issue New tires, brakes, water pump, and thermostat (Have the window spoiler thing will throw in for free) Automatic (pretty cheap to swap) Interior isn't the cleanest but it's not bad. It would make a great project car or even just a good cruiser. I can't keep it anymore so just throw me a reasonable offer.
  11. Just like the title says. FSM doesn't really go into the pinout of the black 2-row multipin connnector that powers the VFD's and carries the data signals for the fuel, temp, and such. I've had my cluster opened, and I'm trying to reverse engineer a method of making the connection to the car a bit more reliable than the stock connector allows. Instead of reinventing the wheel though, I'm wondering if any of the more technical folks have tried any reverse engineering of the digital cluster like this.
  12. 1976 280Z RB25 swap

    I just bought my first 1976 280zx and its a rebuild for sure i found a good condition RB25 N/A motor really cheap from a friend have read things about swapping it but haven't found out the stuff i will need to swap it like what transmission and stuff like that can anyone help me out? And with the rb25 n/a what would be some good stuff to pull some extra horse power out ofthe motor i would like to be right around the 300hp to the wheels?
  13. Parting out 1982 Nissan 280ZX, it is a complete. Let me know what your interested in, the only things not for sale are rear diff, transmission and axle shafts. Shipping will be from Idaho, 83347 Items available include: -Engine: F54 Block with a P79 head $200 Local Pickup only -Wiring Harness: -New Air Flow Meter: 80$ -interior gauges: 30$ -Fuel tank: 50$ -Rims: 100$ -Rear disc Brakes: 80$ -Drive Shaft: 50$ -Trim pieces: Varies Let me know what you want and I'll take a better picture of it, also if you want something that is not listed email me and I'll get you a price and picture. email me at [email protected] Thanks Sorry for the poor pictures I'll try and take some better ones tonight
  14. WTB: 280zx Springs

    Hi, I'm looking for a set of springs for my 1981 280zx Turbo. I would really prefer Tokico but would consider other brands. PM or email guku416 at yahoo. Thanks
  15. Hey this is John and this is my first post on here. Just picked up a 1981 Datsun 280zx car a couple weeks ago. Like anything like this I purchase, I look it over, document it with pics and notes, seek out resources and do my research. This little 280zx was owned by an ex-coworker I knew and I looked at the car back in August of 2015. At the time I had just picked up something else but wanted to take a look at the 280zx she had for sale and if the price was cheap I'd grab it up. At the time she wanted a lot for it, too much sentimental value I think. Car was her late husband's etc. etc. Anyways I passed. 2 years pass, I decide I want to sell the what I have and start seriously looking for a Datsun Z car. I have a good buddy in Arizona that could find me rust free cars all day and go pick them up. After looking at a few I thought of the 280zx my friend had for sale a couple years ago. I reconnected with her through Facebook and I couldn't believe it she still had it. This time her asking price dropped from $5k down to $3k! Plus the car was only 45 minutes away - closer than Arizona. BTW - she and her husband at the time lived in Arizona and brought this car with them only to find out it's been sitting in the garage ever since they moved to Pennsylvania from out west. Car was never registered here and I bought it with the Arizona title. Needless to say the car is 100% rust free! Long story longer, I looked the car over again, still in pretty much the same condition it was in last time I looked. I'd say the interior is a 7 out of 10. If I detailed it up and got the front seats reupholstered it'd look damn good. The car has had 1 respray in the stock color. Just a few dings here and there not perfect but damn it looks pretty good. Did I mention zero rust...anywhere? The car is 100% stock unmolested. Her husband was a Z freak she says. The engine runs a little rough from sitting. No smoke, smells good. Oil looks great. 2 of the electrical connectors we pulled off the injectors do not create any change in how the engine is running. Probably gummed up. Already purchased 6 new injectors. Other than that everything works. Car also comes with 6 large plastic bins FULL of all the original parts that were replaced or taken off the car after being replaced with new stuff. I even have the original catalytic converter, AC compressor, steriro system, stereo trim plate, on and on and on. Tons of parts. 2 sets of tire changing tools, the original wheels chocks, jack, spare saver and air can wow! So after some back and forth I threw $2400 at her and she said sold. Drove it up onto the trailer and took it home. Anyways overall the car will clean up pretty nicely. Shouldn't take much to get it on the road. I have some pretty big plans for modifying the car but for now I want to enjoy it as is for a bit before I start turning wrenches. Here's a few pics for now, once I get a chance to clean it up and get some better beauty shots I'll post 'em up. Thanks
  16. In need of a complete, working 1982/1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo distributor/ignitor. I am located in 85120 I'm willing to hvw one shipped I need ASAP thank you.
  17. WANTED: Passenger fender 280zx

    I need a fender for my 280zx that I am restoring. Preferably rust free. Willing to negotiate on price based upon the condition of your fender.
  18. 280zx club?

    I just got a 1983 280zx 2+2 about three or so months ago, and I was wondering if there was anyone else in the McKinney area who has a 280z or 280zx who might want to start a club type group?
  19. New reproduction silicone PCV hose. This hose will fit Datsun 280Z and 280ZX, 1975-1980. The hose connects from the engine block vent under the intake manifold to the PCV valve. Available in semi gloss black and cloth finish. $29.00 https://zcardepot.com/fuel/fuel-injection/pcv-crankcase-vent-hose-to-intake-280z-280zx.html?search=pcv+hose
  20. Hi, Can installing a strut tower brace change my camber? For various reasons I have to do an alignment (race shop) on Monday but will get my triangular strut tower brace on Tuesday. Since the strut brace will push the towers outwards I am worried that it might mess up the camber. It is possible to change camber by pulling/pushing the struts outwards/inwards to the car I have T3 tension rods, MSA camber kit and stock struts (with different springs and shocks). This strut brace, http://www.racetep.com/automaker/datsun-z/z-car-front-ultimate-strut-tower-brace/datsun-280zx-ultimate-strut-tower-brace.html Car is 1980 280zx.
  21. Hi, There are many reports of OEM tension rods snapping when poly bushings are being used. But how about OEM tension rod bushings and stock tension rods? Is there any reports of stock tension rods snapping in this scenario as well? Car is a chumpcar racecar, it's an 1980 280zx with some suspension upgrades. If this is the case I will get a pair of Techno toy tension rods. Thanks
  22. My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
  23. Hi everyone, I've read the how to article on here for using a stock tach with the MSD setup and was wondering if anyone had any experience using the stock tach in a 240z with a 280zx matchbox distributor. Looking forward to hearing some results! I'm trying to stick with the stock gauges as best as possible for a period look. Chris
  24. 240SX TPS mounting bracket for 280Z(X) TB

    While implementing Megasquirt I wanted to keep the engine bay as stock as possible, but wanted to use a TPS instead of the AFM. I bought a new 240SX TPS (throttle position sensor), which looks almost identical to the original TPS (throttle position switch) but has different mounting spacing. To overcome this problem I designed a simple mounting adapter, which I'd happy to sell if anyone else is interested. The mounting spacing for the TB is 70 mm, the mounting holes for the TPS are M4 and pre-tapped! I can confirm that the Beck/Arnley 158-0507 is mounted perfectly using this bracket. Since expected quantities are quite low, I can't purchase with bulk discount and the final price will be €19.99 each. However, I will be shipping them anywere for only €3.99 (US/Canada as well)! You can get more info at http://borsjewebdevelopment.nl/z/ (note that the page is still under development, but ordering works fine).
  25. I tried to post this in "Parts for Sale" but was unable to start a topic there. Hey all! I should start out by saying I'm testing the waters for parting out vs selling the motor/transmission whole. I have a running 1982 280zx. All stock. 150,000 miles on the motor and the car. Injector fans, AC, everything still works on the car. Even the little work light. If there is a big enough demand for parting out the motor and I can move it fast enough, I will part it out. If not, I'm going to try to sell the motor and transmission whole. So if there is something you would like go ahead and let me know. I'm getting rid of the 5/spd manual transmission as well. Keeping the R200. My reason for getting rid of everything is that I am swapping the L28 out for an LQ4. I will let you know what I decide within the next 2 weeks. Can post pictures of parts if requested. Thank you! Ford